does everything except remote start

I have a DEI 562T I'm trying to installed a 05' G35.

I can unlock/lock/open trunk/flash lights from both keyfobs but it will not begin engine start sequence. No lights no crank, no nothing - like I never pressed the button. I also tried a remote start using the "activation input (-)" by grounding the wire 3x. And that didn't help.

I checked the hood switch (needs open/float), neutral wire (needs grounding), brake wire (forgot off hand which this wants to see) - and combination thereof. I notice the status output (blue) never goes low on the relay satellite box (have that tied to the imobilizer status input) . I think there is something wrong with the brain not sending the start signal to the relay satellite box. Anyone know which wire to probe on the ribbon cable that goes between the brain and the relay satellite to cross check?

I tried this all with and without the key in the ignition in case it had to do with the immobilizer.

I try running the shutdown diagnostics but it doesn't blink back. I suppose because it never even started?!

I went as far as reporgramming one of the keyfobs so ch 5 is the remote start button but that didn't help.

Anyone have any ideas? I double checked my voltages/ohms at the brain, reseated my cables, checked my fuses. I have installed several DEI RS and a few alarms in the past. I solder, wrap, and tie wrap all my connections.

Please help. Thanks.

Jay

ps. Saw some post about wiring keysense to the ignition and that didn't help.

first  thing i would do is attach my dmm to the starter wire and trigger the rs to see if voltage is applied to the starter wire.

One of the following would be the problem:
Grey Hood pin wire sees ground
Brown Brake wire sees +12v
BLACK/ white Neutral safety wire does not see ground.

The "activation input" wire should not be connected to anything.

The ignition should come on before the starter, so if you are going to check the relay harness look at the 1st ignition relay.  You shouldn't have to probe anything though, you should be able to hear it click if is turning on.

I'm with Jworm, check your hood pin, NSS, and brake input.  I would disconnect the hood pin (for testing) and verify you only get 12vdc on the brake wire when the brake is pushed.  You don't want to disconnect this wire as it is the easiest way to shut the car off if something is wired wrong when the RS sequence is triggered.  Make sure your 'RS disable' toggle switch is in the right position, too (if you installed it) otherwise make sure the NSS wire is grounded, unless it is a 6MT then make sure it is tapped in to the OEM P/NP wire at the ECU.

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Kevin Pierson

success!!

turns out it was the neutral shutdown not being grounded. the confusion arose because DEI 562T has 2 wires that are black with white stripe!! one is the neutral shutdown and the other is dome light output - had it swapped. man rookie mistake.

thanks all for the response.

ps. as a side note, i did not need to wire my keysense to ignition like i read somewhere.

Not done yet ?@$#

Okay so now it starts but the build in antigrind doesn't seem to work. I cut the start wire the side that goes to the key I soldered to GREEN (key side starter wire) and the other side I soldered to PURPLE (starter side starter wire). If I had these backwards would it still start? I doubt I do because I measure 0 volts on the GREEN wire when the engine is being remoted started.

I also went and reporgrammed 2-12, antigrind to ON. And that didn't help. I don't even understand the feature description on that. It doesn't sound like antigrind stuff. "With anti-grind On (default) the ground-when-armed output will be active during remote start operation. ..."

Does the built in antigrind really work? I normally installed relays in the past for this feature. Am I some how supposed to add a relay to ground-when-armed output or someplace else?

Thanks,
Jay

you need to porgrammer to tach or volt i hhopthis work for you

The anti grind feature works by energizing the starter kill relay when remote starting.  This is why the (-) when armed is on when remote starting.

The G35 has two starter wires, did you connect to both of them?  You should only need to put the anti grind on the first starter output, but if that doesn't seem to work you may need to put one on both.

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Kevin Pierson

xtremeaudio: for now i have it on voltage but will tie into tach when i have more time.

KPierson: This starter kill relay, is this something inside the relay satellite box or something extra I need to wire in? I don't need to wire the ground-when-armed to anything do I?

Regarding the 2 starter wires - I think u might have something. I cut only the fat mama one and this prevented cranking (early on b4 I started installing) so I didn't cut the other one. I guess I will try cutting the 2nd starter wire to see if this takes care of it.

I'm not sure about that particular model, but I would guess that the starter kill relay would be external.  Starter kill relays typically hook to the igntion wire on one side of the coil and the (-) when armed on the other.  You then run the starter wire through the NC contacts of the relay.

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Kevin Pierson

Just an update:

The dei 562t does have build in antigrind. Found it on another post. Anyhow I went ahead and cut the 2nd starter wire (the thinner one) and wired that also. I didn't add a seperate relay for this so hopefully I don't hose things up - looks like the 2 start wires are electrically identical, coming off the ignition switch that is.

Another question: Is it safe to tie "unlock output" and "disarm output" together and wire that bundle to the car's unlock (unlock also disarms on the g35)?

We'll I went ahead and thru some diodes just in case the 2 outputs were at opposition, ie the "unlock output" goes high during lock and the "disarm output" goes low during unlock. I guess in real life this wouln't happen so I proably didn't need it, unless the dei brain freaked out. But then again I don't know if my car would enjoy seeing 12v on these lines in the long term.

This definitely was a pain in the ass. I prob spent 16hrs getting this installed (in the garage) and prob another 4hr studying where things go.
The other 2 install (long ago) wasn't nearly as hard.

Thanks for all the help....