viper 1002, sensitivity?

Got this installed at a dealer, and drove home and started to test it out and see just how sensitive it is. Well, at the setting they had it at, I had to pound the A-pillar hard to warn. So I followed the manual and adjusted the sensitivity with the remote to its most sensitive setting. I still have to whack the A-pillar pretty good, but not quite as hard to get a pre-warn. The trunk on the other hand I pounded HARD, enough to make my hand hurt and nothing. I can even unlock the trunk, open it, and close it and nothing.
Is there a setting on the brain itself that can be adjusted? Should the brain be moved? (2000 chevy cavalier, brain is mounted under driver dash, stuck to the body computer with doubleside tape). Thanks in advance.

Do you realize that the sensitivity of the warn away and full impact are seperate adjustments? Do you also realize that if the full alert was set off three times in a row that you need to cycle the ignition key on/off to reset it before it will alert you again? Try relocating the module because the sensor is on-board. Simply tye-wrap it elsewhere - some wire loom works better than a solid structure. Make an effort to hide it somewhat. Hopefully they left you enough wire.

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Prepare your future. It wasn't the lack of stones that killed the stone age.

I was not aware the sensitivities were seperately adjusted. I DID know about the three warns in a row/reset thing 9Nuisance prevention circuitry I think DEI calls it). I'll ask the installer to move it when I go back in next week to have them connect my trunk light switch to it. Thanks.

gregzbobo wrote:

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I was not aware the sensitivities were seperately adjusted. I DID know about the three warns in a row/reset thing 9Nuisance prevention circuitry I think DEI calls it). I'll ask the installer to move it when I go back in next week to have them connect my trunk light switch to it. Thanks.

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My bad. I misread as 5002. Only one adjustment for 1002. Sorry for mixup. Too many things at once:)

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Prepare your future. It wasn't the lack of stones that killed the stone age.

Why wasn't the trunk switch conected? You can't rely on a shock or prox etc at front of vehicle to protect the rear.

I was wondering the same thing. I paid 250 bucks installed, plus they charged me 30 extra for more labor to yank out the crappy chevy dealer DEI OEM alarm. I intend to go back this week, walk in, ask for manager, and ask them to run the wire to the trunk light switch. If he says thats extra, I intend to point out that I paid 30 extra dollars for labor, and running a 10 foot wire and making a splice could have been included in that.
I also intend to ask them to relocate the brain to the wire loom, and have them tape up the wires better, I looked under there and the wires are all plainly visible (ie colors), so a thief could easily cut the right wires and take my car.

I went ahead and connected my aftermarket trunk popper to the RED / white wire via relay and it it works great. I'm definitely thinking of saying screw it about aking it back and just connecting the trunk light switch to the alarm myself. I know that the wire coming from the brain that I need connect to the switch is the H/7 blue wire, thing is its a negative input trigger, so I am not sure which wire of the switch to connect to, and if it needs a diode or not. According to my service manual for the car (2000 Chevy Cavalier), the switch grounds via a black wire, and an ORANGE / black wire comes out of it to the bulb, and an orange wire comes out of the bulb to the BCM, connecting to the orange domelight wire on the way.
Would I connect the blue brain wire to the switch ground, or to the ORANGE / black wire between the switch and lightbulb? Do I need a diode in there somewhere?
Thanks.

I'm as in the dark as you not having worked on this vehicle BUT disconnect the light fitting, find which of the 2 cables is pos, leave testlight on and shut hatch/trunklid. If light goes out you have a pos feed and connect to alarm's purple or invert to neg via a rely. If not wire other cable to blue as this is the one. join to alarm's blue via a diode with diode band on trunklight side.  The reason for this is that if you have a hood switch and it malfunctions, this would bring on hatch light permanently giving you battery problems. With the diode it blocks that ground return but you also get a signal form the rear. N.B. If 1002 has a grey hood switch lead, don't worry about the diode.