how to bypass malfunctioning factory ss?

Hello,
For some reason the "engine kill" aspect of my security system is malfunctioning, and I can't turn it off (meaning, it won't let me start my car, at least not for more than 2 seconds). On the
12volt wiring page for my car, it notes a particular wire for "factory disarm"- will this help me in any way? Thanks for your help.

1995 Chrysler Cirrus, 2.5L V6

You say "factory" ss.  I am not aware of a 1995 chrysler car (any of them) having a starter kill?

Desribe the situation as it ocours.....

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Yes, both the alarm and theft deterrent aspect are factory- at least both are mentioned in the owner's manual (this is the LXi model, if that helps). I'm not sure if it's a "starter" kill per se, or something to do with the fuel pump or injectors or what- it kills the engine AFTER it's started.

So my situation, as it occurs now, is- I go out to start the car. It starts, but then after about 1.5 seconds, it shuts off. This happens repeatedly and persistently, although it will start for that 1.5 seconds every time. I used to be able to let it sit for about an hour or two, and then it would start right up again. After a month or more of this, I found out if I locked myself inside, and tripped the alarm (horns & lights, etc.), then turned all that off, it would start and run, on the very next try. That worked every time, for several months. Suddenly now that trick stopped working too.

So something with the alarm system is definitely funky- I don't even need it. If you can help me disable it I would be much obliged!!

ok, now that I'm thinking about it, it might be slightly longer than 1.5 seconds. But its long enough to know the engine started & is actually running. It doesn't choke or sputter, it just proceeds to shut off, like I turned off the ignition.

Congrats to you & your daughter by the way!!

It is unlikely that what you are discribing is being caused by the factory security system.

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The moving power of mathematical invention is not reasoning but imagination.
Augustus de Morgan

as a guess I'd say ignition 1 or ignition 2 are having problems. I would guess when you put your key on and turn it on, the fuel pump kicks on and supplies a little pressure. once started, the fuel pump is no longer on and provides no fuel. I can't find any information for your car, you might just have to take it somewhere and have it checked out. they'll probably want to change out your ignition switch and if any security stuff. a 'security system' could be anything. I remember a '95 acura legend, had a 'ss' and you had to open the door, close it, turn the key on, open the door or something like that to disable it. I don't recall it disabling the car from starting. I'd say check the wiring from the ignition switch and if it all looks good, take it to the dealer, it's an older car, and obviously hasn't been functioning correctly for a while. as ranger svo pointed out, 12 volts through as 270 ohm resistor on the correct wire should disable any security, maybe the security fuse s blown or brain went bad.

What color is your key?

If the head of the key is gray then it is most likely equpped with a transponder immobilizer system.  If the head is black, chances are there is no security on the car that would prevent it from starting.

Are you sure it is a '95?  You may want to check the sticker in the door to verify, if you bought the car used you can't go off what the book in the glovebox says.  No 95s have the engine shut down, that is why I ask.

If you do in fact have an immobilizer there really isn't much you can do.  About the only thing is make sure that the right key is being used, and that the system has been programmed for the key you are using.

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Kevin Pierson

Well, it's still in the shop... to clear up previous questions, yes it is a 1995 (VIN# confirms this) LXi V6 2.5L, it does not have a "sentry key" with a chip inside, but it DID have a factory "remote entry", which was a keychain with buttons that looked exactly like this pic from remotesunlimited.com.



Among other ways, the security system would arm/disarm if you used this to lock/unlock the doors, and the ss status was shown by a red LED in the instrument cluster. This was definitely a factory alarm system which would make the headlights flash and the car's horn sound- this is all in the '95 owners' manual. The manual also says that it has an anti-theft feature which will keep the car from being started. I was able to previously confirm (when the problem was not manifesting) that if I would trip the alarm, and try to start the car while the alarm was sounding- the engine would start, then kill after about 2 seconds- exactly the same as the problem it's having now (well, minus the alarm sounding). Once the alarm was turned off, the car would start fine.

ranger svo- hmmm, I would just strongly suspect it has to do with the security system because of the previously mentioned occurrences, but please let me know any other possibilities you might suspect. I'm open to your suggestions.

phonymike- yes, hehe, I'm really afraid the brains might have gone bad...

New information...

The mechanic I have it at walked the problem through with a Chrysler tech, and told me something along the lines of, as long as he sprays carb cleaner where the fuel injectors are, the engine will keep running. They say they believe this is because the PCM is not performing this command as a result of "poor communication" with the BCM. [Note that at least one mechanic or "car troubleshooting person"- can't remember which, I've talked to so many by now- informed me that the "engine-kill" functioned by cutting fuel from the fuel injectors, but my mechanic wasn't about to listen to that... Two other mechanics have told me they believe on this car, the security components were hard-wired into the PCM and BCM].

So he's ready to replace them both at the hefty price of ~$800 (not including labor)... the previous owner of the vehicle had the PCM replaced, and they say that must be why the modules aren't communicating efficiently, because they need to have the same "code" or something. So he says I need to replace both the PCM and BCM simultaneously with parts ordered directly from the factory.

So, if this truly is the problem, and there are no available work-arounds, I'm wondering how hard it would be to replace the BCM myself.. (the PCM looks pretty straight forward). Also- he stresses that I cannot replace them with parts from a junker car- essentially I think he was trying to say they must be tailor-fit to my specific vehicle with parts directly from the factory- what do you think about that? For that huge expense, I'm thinking about trying it the cheap way... but let me know if you think that's a bad idea.