1996 honda civic central locking problem
Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Security and Convenience
Forum Discription: Car Alarms, Keyless Entries, Remote Starters, Immobilizer Bypasses, Sensors, Door Locks, Window Modules, Heated Mirrors, Heated Seats, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=95820
Printed Date: May 15, 2025 at 3:07 PM
Topic: 1996 honda civic central locking problem
Posted By: brendanm
Subject: 1996 honda civic central locking problem
Date Posted: July 22, 2007 at 5:05 PM
Make: Honda
Model: Civic
Year: 1996
Country: Ireland
Relevant Spec: Factory fit remote central locking, electric windows, electric sunroof, electric side mirrors.
Problem - Central locking not activating when drivers door locked with switch.
Today I went at starting to install a Clifford alarm in my car. All I want to do to start is have remote central locking.
From what I've read the factory fitted control/receiver for central locking is in the original Radio, which I've since changed. I've also since lost the factory remote.
So I went to what I think is the Central locking relay on the drivers door, planning to then trace those wires back into the car.
I was a little gung ho and, stupidly, started this bit without reading the instructions(which state that the Civic has a Ground/negative activated lock). I gave 12V to the wires going to the locking actuator which are supposed to get ground... the motor kicked, and then wouldnt kick again(with the 12V). (these wires were already tapped as this alarm was in the car before, fitted by someone else)
The central locking would not work after this when you used the drivers door switch(which it always used to).
I've since wired it up with Grounds to those wires (wires to the actuator,not the signal wires from the car) and it works when I activate the alarm.
So the motors in the actuators are clearly functioning.
But I'm guessing I've fried something in the wires coming out from the car?
Clearly I should be able to wire the alarm wires to the signal wires coming from the car?? But when I try grounding either of those, nothing happens.
In the drivers door, there are 4 wires from inside the car to the relay:
Ground
Blue/Red
GREEN/ Red
WHITE/ Green (12V constant)
Clifford info(&on this site) says the factory unlock/lock wires should be GREEN / WHITE and GREEN/ orange. There are loads of wires these colours around the fusebox, a few I traced go to electric wing mirrors/sun roof.
Then a further 4 exit the relay and go to the actuator:
Blue/White (Unlock when grounded)
Blue/red (Lock when grounded)
Yellow/Red (12V under Lock/unlock- cant remember which)
WHITE/ Red (12V under Lock/unlock- cant remember which)
Any ideas what I've boken? Tracing it mentally, switching the drivers door switch activates its actuator which should send back a signal to the relay which should then relay same to the passenger door's relay/actuator? But if either of those are broken, why does the passenger door lock when you activate the drivers actuator by grounding the wires after the relay?? The drivers door relay does still click when you do this...
Replies:
Posted By: ringojam
Date Posted: July 22, 2007 at 6:07 PM
Sometimes in the drivers door there is the door lock module .Open it up and using a test light probe the curcuit board there are two diodes parallel to each other near the top of the board you can pick up - lock and - unlock there rember this is on the rhd japan models i dont know if your model is the same?
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Jamaica home of the worlds fastest man.
Posted By: brendanm
Date Posted: July 23, 2007 at 3:37 AM
It is RHD and but it may not be the same as the JDM one - it was originally a 1.4L Engine which JDM cars never got. Engine wiring is different to the JDMs anyway, but I dont know if security wiring is...
Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: July 25, 2007 at 7:17 AM
If it is a 5 door and the radio antenna (aerial) is in centre of roof it's a UK (Swindon) build. Driver kick panel, Grey plug, WHITE/ red lock and WHITE/ yellow unlock. These are motor wires so use 5 wire diagramme, if Concept series use a 451 module or 2 x relays. Cut the WHITE/ red to see which side is lock and which side is motor. (motor side will stay at ground) the layout is very confusing. If a 3 door you might have later wiring which will give you lock/unlock from a plug above driver kickwell (- triggers), earlier coupes, into drivers door; module has either blue and blue /white (- triggers).
Posted By: brendanm
Date Posted: July 25, 2007 at 7:34 AM
Thanks for your reply -its a 3door, Honda Honda Civic not the Rover Honda Civic.
But, for the rest of your reply, I cant help thinking you skim-read my post? I have identified the wires going out to the door but they are not doing anything for me - its all in the post or if I've left something out please tell me - I really want to fix this.
Posted By: brendanm
Date Posted: July 26, 2007 at 3:14 AM
ringojam wrote:
You know what wires are goin to the factory acuators just cut them there at the drivers an pass door and wire up! 2 relays for after market acuators ,they are fired with a - pulse ,then take the the 2 wires from your door switch and also run them to the relays ,i have done a few honda torneos and euroRs like this because the door lock controller is in the power window switch and very expensive to replace .Everything still works like a factory system. You need to bypass the factory system and make yr own controller with relays
There are no wires going to a door "switch" because there is no electrical door "switch". This model in the Irish cars did not have a "Central lock/unlock button/switch". Its simply the standard mechanical switch/lever which pulls the locking bars to open/close the lock. i.e. the same switch/lever which opens/locks the drivers door always did the passenger door at the same time - I believe this should then trigger some sort of micro switch within the actuator, which should then trigger the relay?
I could live with this reduced functionality but bringing the wires through the door grommet will be a royal pain in the ass!! I can barely get my hand in at the grommet inside the car.
Posted By: b2reptile
Date Posted: July 26, 2007 at 8:24 AM
Are you getting a ground signal from the drivers actuator when you manually move it? There is a microswitch that sends the ground signal to activate the relays. Check at the actuator, and the relays to make sure the switch is working or not. A side query- Does your car have two relays for the doorlocks total? I would assume thats all it would need, one for lock, one for unlock.
Posted By: brendanm
Date Posted: July 26, 2007 at 8:30 AM
b2reptile wrote:
Are you getting a ground signal from the drivers actuator when you manually move it? There is a microswitch that sends the ground signal to activate the relays. Check at the actuator, and the relays to make sure the switch is working or not.
A side query- Does your car have two relays for the doorlocks total? I would assume thats all it would need, one for lock, one for unlock.
Thanks.
Just one box on the driver's door. With both lock and unlock functions built into it - must be 2 relays in one.
If there is a microswitch in the actuator then that could be the problem - the driver's door actuator doesnt actually activate when you lock the driver's door with the lever/switch so I'm guessing maybe whatever microswitch is in the actuator to detect the pressing of the driver's door switch is not working? (i.e. i've fried it)
But if this is the case, then why does nothing happen when I ground or give 12V to the wires coming from the car to the relay? Is something else broken?
Posted By: b2reptile
Date Posted: July 26, 2007 at 9:02 AM
But if this is the case, then why does nothing happen when I ground or give 12V to the wires coming from the car to the relay? Is something else broken? Besides the central locking, what isn't working?
Posted By: brendanm
Date Posted: July 26, 2007 at 9:20 AM
b2reptile wrote:
But if this is the case, then why does nothing happen when I ground or give 12V to the wires coming from the car to the relay? Is something else broken?
Besides the central locking, what isn't working?
Its strange.
If you read through the posts above its all there -
Central locking works when you tap to the control wires going direct to the drivers door actuator and ground them.
Central locking does not work when you lock the drivers door with key/door latch(i.e. lever which pulls the locking bars shut.
Nothing happens when you ground/12V the signal wires going from the car.
What I cant do:
-Activate the central locking/Lock both doors by simply closing the drivers door latch/lock lever.
-Activate the central locking by tapping the control wires from inside the car to the relay in the drivers door - to avoid having to somehow get the wires through the bulkhead and door grommet which is almost impossible to get at.
I appreciate the help here but its quite frustrating when after following the rules set out regarding providing all the information, people then dont read said provided information!
Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: July 26, 2007 at 9:49 AM
Let's sort this one out properly. If you ground either of the two blue , bluw/white wires at the door module, you will either control the door locks on both doors or just the passenger side. If only the passenger side you will need to fit a solenoid to control the locking. EITHER way you will have to bring 2 cables out to the driver's door; I know its a bitch on Civics.
Posted By: brendanm
Date Posted: July 26, 2007 at 9:57 AM
Thankyou for taking the time to reply, but PLEASE JUST READ MY FIRST POST FULLY. It really does explain all this.
I do not need to add anything. I need to FIX/replace something
If you read my first post, it says that the functionality I am looking for was THERE FROM THE FACTORY, by Honda, before I touched anything and while the alarm was previously in the car.
That functionality is: pull drivers door latch & it activates its own(drivers) actuator which somehow activates passenger activator so both doors lock/unlock(&both actuators activate) when you lock the drivers door with its latch or via the key.
Something changed/broke when I gave 12V to the wires supposed to get ground. I'm trying to determine what broke/changed.
Posted By: b2reptile
Date Posted: July 26, 2007 at 10:18 AM
In the drivers door, there are 4 wires from inside the car to the relay:
Ground
Blue/Red
GREEN/ Red
WHITE/ Green (12V constant) What signal do you get on these wires when you lock the pass actuator manually? When you unlock? Please don't yell at me, I'm only looking for more info.
Posted By: brendanm
Date Posted: July 26, 2007 at 10:26 AM
b2reptile wrote:
In the drivers door, there are 4 wires from inside the car to the relay:
Ground
Blue/Red
GREEN/ Red
WHITE/ Green (12V constant)
What signal do you get on these wires when you lock the pass actuator manually? When you unlock?
Please don't yell at me, I'm only looking for more info.
I never checked if there was any change in those when locking the passenger door lock. I'm pretty passenger door latch never activated even its own actuator when you locked it - it just locked the bars with the latch pulling the bars. I'll check when I next look get at it.
Sorry, just getting a little frustrated at this stage - nothin in your post to make me yell anyway - you asked a clear, specific question which I had not provided an answer to, and which may help in resolving this.
And admittedly, its my own impatience/stupidity that has me in this predicament in the first place(rushing into giving 12V to the wires I should have been grounding).
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