you will need to connect the 3.5 lock and unlock wires to the 1700g, they're then controlled through the purple data wire(osdII). the factory arm/ disarm is also controlled this way therefore no additional wiring is needed, just make sure the lock/ security light on the dash lights up when armed and turns off after about 15 seconds
The 1700g CAN NOT control the doorlocks on a 2002 Sierra. The doorlocks are only on the databuss on 2003+ GM fullsize trucks.
The 1700g can only bypass the Passlock II on your truck. All the other features of it won't work.
Hook up the factory alarm disarm of the RSX3.5 to the lt. green factory alarm disarm wire at the BCM. You can also get door triggers, door locks, horn, and parking lights there as well.
Remove the instrument cluster and there will be a white wire leading to the cluster. That is your tach wire. Remove the headlight switch assembly and you have a decent spot to mount the bypass module, relay pack and alarm brain.
This is an easy truck. All GM fullsize trucks from 98-02 are the same. It was the most common vehicle for me to do when I was installing at that time.
like JWorm stated. it's an easy truck. 1700G will only do the passlock bypass. almost everything can be picked up at the ignition harness and right below that at the BCM.
one more thing. unless you are an authorized retailer/installer of DEI products, don't post on directechs forums (not saying you have, just advising not to)
Kelly/Jworm --
Everything you stated ended up being true. I have hooked up the entire system. Let me just say what a new found respect I have for this profession. I've installed all my aftermarket stereos/gps, etc. Installing an alarm isn't more difficult; just a huge pain in the ass! And I did it on an 'easy' truck! I will 'never' do this again! =)
Wire locations were easy and all were located at the bcm. Only time I had to enter the engine compartment was for the siren. I also installed a 530T window module. This also works as expected but the Windows in these older GM trucks suck. Even at the highest resistance setting At brief inspection I don't see any good way to make this situation better. When I need to get two metal joints to loosen up or stop squeeking you throw a little WD-40 on there and it's all better for a while. Is there something equivalent for door windows? Oviously WD-40 and a window don't go together. I didn't really see a 'track' for the window but it's hard to tell how it works with such small access holes.
Anyway, overall I'm pretty happy and the install went well. Thanks for the help on these forums. Lots of good information here on the12volt.
Kind Regards,
Benjamin