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98 lincoln navigator window module

Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Security and Convenience
Forum Discription: Car Alarms, Keyless Entries, Remote Starters, Immobilizer Bypasses, Sensors, Door Locks, Window Modules, Heated Mirrors, Heated Seats, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=96148
Printed Date: May 19, 2024 at 5:07 AM


Topic: 98 lincoln navigator window module

Posted By: ceasar326
Subject: 98 lincoln navigator window module
Date Posted: August 03, 2007 at 6:21 PM

Well i finally finish hooking up 2 window modules for a 98 lincoln navigator For the front and back windows. Although i have a few problems with it. I hooked them up to a 3 channel aux from a Crimestopper. Since the modules are set to roll up when arm and to roll down when activating channel 3 aux of alarm. The first problem that i have is when i arm the car 2 of the windown "one front and one back" will roll up all the way and the other two will just roll a 1/4 and then stop. What could make it to couse that to stop. Then my second problem is when i activate aux 3 from the alarm all four windows would just roll down about two or three inches and stop. The way i have it hooked up is as follow.

Type A system

Motor 1

White = down switch +

Brown = up switch +

Green = down motor

Blue = up motor

Motor 2

WHITE/ blk = down switch +

BROWN / blk = up switch +

GREEN/ blk = down motor

Blue/blk = up motor

Purple = grounded

PURPLE / blk = grounded

Gray = cut  not used

Black = grounded

Red = battery 12+ volt connected to 12+ volt Ignition Switch Harness "both modules"

Orange = connected to - armed output from alarm "both modules"

RED / white = connected to channel 3aux from alarm "both modules"

Well i guess my question is what could couse 2 windows to stop rolling up all the way and why wouldn't all four windows roll down all the way when activating channel 3aux from the alarm.

Any info would be much appreciated. 




Replies:

Posted By: rjones4876
Date Posted: August 05, 2007 at 3:54 PM

what modules are you using?

upgrade your Power and ground for the window modules/  windows going up is triggering the "electronic clutch".  Try cleaning your window tracks.  are there any resistance dipswitches(like on a 530t).

as far as not rolling down all the way.  Is you aux 3 validity?  does it continue to throw a trigger for as long as you hold the button or is it timed.  try holding the button for a longer period of time and see if the windows go all the way down.  Modules may have a vent feature and are operating normally.... ESO problem





Posted By: rjones4876
Date Posted: August 05, 2007 at 3:55 PM
dont forget to diode isolate the orange from the rest of the alarm




Posted By: ceasar326
Date Posted: August 05, 2007 at 6:14 PM

The type of module Im using is Autopage model: AC-78 power window roll up/roll  down interface. And the alarm is a crimestopper CS-2014DP-TW2-FM.

What do you mean by upgrading the power and ground? Should i get the power from 2 diffrend places and the ground also?

The window module does have dip switches, there set to high on all 4 windows.

For the aux 3 I have it set for "steady Momentary" Theres also momentary, timed, and latch on/off.What would be the best one to for?





Posted By: rjones4876
Date Posted: August 10, 2007 at 8:54 AM
ceasar326 wrote:

The type of module Im using is Autopage model: AC-78 power window roll up/roll  down interface. And the alarm is a crimestopper CS-2014DP-TW2-FM.

What do you mean by upgrading the power and ground? Should i get the power from 2 diffrend places and the ground also?

The window module does have dip switches, there set to high on all 4 windows.

For the aux 3 I have it set for "steady Momentary" Theres also momentary, timed, and latch on/off.What would be the best one to for?


As far as the power is concerned, on ford products, i have usually run a 10 AWG wire right to the battery to power my window modules(fused of course).  I use the same guage wire through the door boot to a solid ground right in the kick panel.  I prefer to mount the modules in the car rather than the door, but I have done them both ways.  Try cleaning your window tracks with lithium grease(its white and a little foamy).  I am not sure what "steady Momentary" is but based on your other options I would assume that its the same as validity.





Posted By: ceasar326
Date Posted: August 10, 2007 at 9:33 AM

Thank you for helping me out on this i been at it for two weeks trying to figure it out.

Now should i add another fuse if i run the 10AWG to the battery? The modules already come with fuses 30amp each module.

About the diode isolate, I got both modules orange wire,  one taped to the other and on to the arm alarm wire. Should i separade both orange wires and diode isolate them to the arm wire of the alarm? And should i do the same with the RED / white wire from the window module to the channel 3aux of the alarm?





Posted By: rjones4876
Date Posted: August 10, 2007 at 3:21 PM
ceasar326 wrote:

Thank you for helping me out on this i been at it for two weeks trying to figure it out.

Now should i add another fuse if i run the 10AWG to the battery? The modules already come with fuses 30amp each module.

About the diode isolate, I got both modules orange wire,  one taped to the other and on to the arm alarm wire. Should i separade both orange wires and diode isolate them to the arm wire of the alarm? And should i do the same with the RED / white wire from the window module to the channel 3aux of the alarm?


use one diode where you caught the wire closest to the alarm.  put the stripe closest to the alarm.  Yes, put a fuse under the hood.  the fuses close to the module protect the modules themselves.  the fuse by the battery protect the vehicle should an accident occur and the wire gets pinched





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