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viper 5900 remote start, honda

Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Security and Convenience
Forum Discription: Car Alarms, Keyless Entries, Remote Starters, Immobilizer Bypasses, Sensors, Door Locks, Window Modules, Heated Mirrors, Heated Seats, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=96871
Printed Date: April 25, 2024 at 12:22 AM


Topic: viper 5900 remote start, honda

Posted By: 33up
Subject: viper 5900 remote start, honda
Date Posted: September 03, 2007 at 9:13 PM

Hello all,

I have two questions about the Viper 5900 remote start relay satellite wiring, specifically, about the heavy gauge wire side of the relay. I've researched this topic through forum search, but there are no conclusive answers to my questions.

Anyway, there are 3 (+)12V inputs on this relay.

2 RED (+)12V inputs and 1 RED / WHITE (+)12V input.

The manual states that I can only use 1 of the 2 REDs if I have only 1 (+)12V battery wire at the key switch, which is true in my case. My question is: do I have to wire this (+)12V input at the switch harness, or can I do it someplace else?

I also have a question about the third input wire (RED / WHITE). Does it have to be powered at all? If so, does it have to be done at the switch harness?

Thanks




Replies:

Posted By: enice
Date Posted: September 03, 2007 at 9:19 PM

To make the system work 100% you either tie in at vehicle ingition harness or battery terminal.  I would not recommend any other 12v input.

As for your last question, tie them together.  If your car has 2 constant 12v wires then tie in on both.  Example, 1 wire to one of the wires and the other 2 tied together on the other wire.  When in doubt, tie them all together and connect at battery.





Posted By: 33up
Date Posted: September 04, 2007 at 3:52 PM

Thanks for the info.

The reason I ask about alternate place to tap the wires normally found at the switch harness is that I want to hide all my wiring as well as possible. The switch harness is the most obvious place for anyone to look at (at least in the movies :).

One more question. The Viper satellite relay has only one high current wire powering the accessory wire (ORANGE). My car has 2 accessory wires at the switch harness. Should I use the low current orange (-) 200mA 2nd accessory output from the satellite relay to power a relay to power the second accessory wire at the harness?

Thanks.





Posted By: enice
Date Posted: September 04, 2007 at 5:22 PM
thats exatly what the orange wire is made for. I understand what you mean when it comes to finding the wires at the ign.  If you actually want to get into the mind of a thief then the first step is looking for the alarm and unplugging.  Wouldn't you thing that would be easier?  Remember, an alarm is a theft deterrant.  If a thief really wants your car he'll just have to tow itposted_image




Posted By: 33up
Date Posted: September 04, 2007 at 6:30 PM

Well, I'm sure going to make it difficult for anybody to find. I'm worried about the relay satellite fuses though. If they ever blow I might have a hard time getting to them myself :-)





Posted By: wrenches
Date Posted: September 05, 2007 at 10:03 AM
33up]< wrote:

>Thanks for the info.

The reason I ask about alternate place to tap the wires normally found at the switch harness is that I want to hide all my wiring as well as possible. The switch harness is the most obvious place for anyone to look at (at least in the movies :).

One more question. The Viper satellite relay has only one high current wire powering the accessory wire (ORANGE). My car has 2 accessory wires at the switch harness. Should I use the low current orange (-) 200mA 2nd accessory output from the satellite relay to power a relay to power the second accessory wire at the harness?

Thanks.


You can also use the pink/white wire for your second accessory wire as long as your car doesn't also need two ignition wires.  It can be programmed as either accessory or ignition.





Posted By: 33up
Date Posted: November 08, 2007 at 5:35 PM
Hello all,

I'm installing a Viper 5900 w/ remote start and a Honda SL-3 bypass made by Fortin.The bypass manual calls for connecting its blue wire to a (-) while running wire from the remote start.Which wire would that be on the Viper 5900 remote start relay/module???

Thanks.




Posted By: 33up
Date Posted: November 08, 2007 at 5:50 PM
the above ended up in my old post somehow, even though i started a new topic. ??????




Posted By: wirewise
Date Posted: November 08, 2007 at 6:00 PM
There is no need to create a new topic for each part of your installation. Help us help you by posting all of your questions for each part of your installation in the same thread.

~wirewise~




Posted By: 33up
Date Posted: November 08, 2007 at 6:01 PM
got it, thanks.




Posted By: JWorm
Date Posted: November 08, 2007 at 6:35 PM
There is a blue wire labeled as "status out" that will work. It goes into the relay pack in the 7 pin harness, and comes out thru the 4-pin harness which you may not even have plugged in at the moment. You can tap into it in either harness.

You can also use the "blue/white" 2nd status/rear defroster output wire in the main harness. Make sure it is programmed for a latched output.




Posted By: 33up
Date Posted: November 09, 2007 at 4:58 PM
Thanks! I was leaning towards the blue wire myself, just wasn't sure.




Posted By: 33up
Date Posted: December 09, 2007 at 12:46 PM
Does anybody know where the tachometer wire would be in a 2008 Honda CR-V? I cannot find the blasted thing.
Thanks.




Posted By: techman93
Date Posted: December 09, 2007 at 2:13 PM
2007 Honda CRV
Tachometer     BLUE     (AC)     AT VEHICLE FUSE BOX     
ALSO AT INSTRUMENT CLUSTER PLUG A PIN #5

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The wire I'm test'n isn't doin' what it's supposed to be doin'... I am so glad I printed that tech sheet, with the wrong info.
Do it right the first time... or I might have to fix it for ya




Posted By: 33up
Date Posted: December 09, 2007 at 2:34 PM
Thanks.
I had this information already. I pulled out my gauges and tested for AC voltage at PIN#5 (thin black wire), but my meter shows no voltage there (with the car running.) I don't want to open the harnesses at the engine compartment fuse box. Any other locations for this wire?




Posted By: 33up
Date Posted: December 15, 2007 at 10:49 AM
If I were to cut PIN#5 wire and the tachometer stops working, then I suppose that I can assume that I have the correct wire to hook up to the remote starter? Is my reasoning on this correct?
Thanks.




Posted By: techman93
Date Posted: December 15, 2007 at 10:13 PM
if the pin# and color match you can try connecting temporarily and try to learn tach. If it does and it works then it should be the proper wire.

-------------
The wire I'm test'n isn't doin' what it's supposed to be doin'... I am so glad I printed that tech sheet, with the wrong info.
Do it right the first time... or I might have to fix it for ya




Posted By: 33up
Date Posted: February 28, 2008 at 8:57 PM
OK, I'm all done with my install, finally!

I just have a few more issues...

1. I installed a Fortin SL-3 bypass. The manual doesn't call for installing a fuse on its +12V constant input. Should I install a fuse there anyway?

2. I would like to get progressive locks going. Right now when I hit disarm all doors unlock. Is there a way to wire progressive unlocking using the alarms' 2nd unlock output and my cars' wiring?

3. I would also like to be able to trip the defogger when the car is remote started. Anybody know which wire in my Honda CR-V can be used to do that? The alarm has a 200mA defogger output wire.

Thanks!




Posted By: techman93
Date Posted: February 29, 2008 at 11:30 PM
You may have to isolate the drivers door lock motor with a relay to only unlock on first pulse then the second unlock to the wire that unlocks the rest.

-------------
The wire I'm test'n isn't doin' what it's supposed to be doin'... I am so glad I printed that tech sheet, with the wrong info.
Do it right the first time... or I might have to fix it for ya





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