starter makes car start, turn off shortly

You probably do need to connect both ignition wires.

Also, have you learned the tach signal properly?

catalin capota wrote:

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The second ignition line that behicle seems to only power the heater.

As far as the 'armed signal' wire you're talking about should be connected to a PATS immobilizer by-pass module like init mentioned. It's required since your vehicle as a factory installed immobilizer.
This most likely explains why the vehicle runs for a few seconds and turn off.

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Ooops!  I'm sorry, I looked up Ford Mustang!  No, I guess you don't need it, I don't see a reference to it in DEI's bypass application chart.

I'm sorry.  Although that still doesn't solve the problem totally...

If you're using voltage sense, make sure the system is programmed to do so.  If you're using TACH mode, then make sure you've learned the tach signal and that the tach wire is making a good connection.

As for that other ignition wire, the main reason why people install remote starters is to warm up the heater.  You'll probably want to connect that wire.  Don't just hook it into the other ignition wire.  I'll have to look at the install manual to see exactly what needs to be done.

No, you can't do that because then the system won't have power.   As far as needing to press buttons, the system itself probably has a type of immobilizer feature where it prevents someone from starting the car while it is armed, but usually that's deactivated when you disarm.   What buttons do you need to push to get it to work?

I looked up a wiring chart on this vehicle but I think mine might have an error.  It lists both "Ignition 2" and "Accessory" as GRAY / YELLOW and it doesn't mention a BLACK/ Light Green wire.  Also, it says that this car does have PATS.   (I made sure I was looking up the T-Bird this time, too.) That isn't consistent with other information I've found or your findings.

Next time you try to remote start the car, try this:  put the key in the ignition, but don't turn it, then activate the remote start.  If it works with the key in, then you must have PATS.  If not, then that isn't your problem.

I don't see how the alarm would know if the key is in the ignition as long as it is in the OFF position, in other words, leave it in the position where you can take it in and out.  Then try remote start.  If it starts OK, then it's PATS.

It would seem to me that, if Ford was using PATS in other vehicles at this time, I don't see why they wouldn't have it in this one.  But, best to check to be sure as you don't want to buy parts you don't need.

If you tried starting it with the key left in the ignition, and that didn't work, then PATS isn't your problem here.

As far as that other site goes, I'm going to say that it's wrong, someone else can correct me if I am, but to my knowledge Passlock isn't used in Ford vehicles.  From what I can see DEI's reference chart doesn't refer to the 555L for any Ford vehicle.  You don't need it if the car isn't starting with the key in the ignition.

Perhaps, it's possible that that second wire is controlling more than the heat?  You might want to try connecting that now and see what the outcome is since you'll need to do it anyway.  Remember not to just connect the 2 wires together but you'll need to use a relay.

This document: https://www.designtech-intl.com/pdf/notes/note234.pdf

has a good diagram for how to wire 2 ignition wires from just one output.  Don't pay attention to anything except the first diagram on the page, as the rest of it is irrelevant to your particular system.  The diagram you're looking at has the one wire coming out of the box that says "DesignTech" and going to two relays.  In the box that says "DesignTech," just imagine that's your Commando remote starter system and where is says "Green Ignition 2" that's your PINK ignition wire from the Commando.

Apart from that, all I can say is have you checked the tach wire lately?  Are you sure it's making a good connection?  Make sure you aren't using TTAPS.  Some people here swear by them but I haven't had much luck. 

Does the remote start system have any way of reporting what the failure was through the LED, flashing lights, chirps, maybe?  I know my DEI Viper system can flash the LED, but I have not been able to get a lot of information on the Commando system.  If you know the manufacturer's name, please post it and I'll try to get what I can on it.

Aha! That explains it then. The Code Alarm website says that one of the Gray / YELLOW wires is ignition and one is accessory, though. They fail to mention the BLACK/ Green wire but the OP does mention it.

I would strongly suggest testing each of these with a multimeter.

Accessory Wires have voltage when the key is in ACCESSORY or RUN positions.  The voltage usually drops or goes away completely when in the START position.

Ignition Wires have voltage when the key is in the RUN or START positions.  They don't lose voltage or power in START.

Starter Wires only have voltage when the key is in the START position.

All wires have no voltage when the key is in the OFF position. The ones that do have power at this time are your constant 12V sources.

Make a note of the wire's color and how it behaves during each key position. Now you'll know which ones need to be connected to what lead out of the remote starter. Reference the document above to see how to connect more than one wire to a single output using the relays.  You can get relays at auto parts stores.

Use a digital multimeter.  It's safer on the car especially if you find that you need to test wires that are part of the car's sensitive electronics.

Yes, Tach=Tachometer.  When testing this wire you'll need to put the multimeter into AC voltage mode, and keep in mind that it should fluctuate when you rev the engine.

T-Taps (which I had written in all caps) are a type of connector that is sometimes used by installers in automobile wiring.  There's a whole 4-page thread that cropped up on here not long ago where people are debating wether they're any good or not.  Some people swear by them. Personally, I haven't found them to be that great.  Your mileage may vary.  I would suggest that if you used one of these, try using some other method of connection and see if that works out better for you.  A T-Tap is a plastic connector with a metal "fork" that you fold over the wire and snap down, then you crimp a connection on the other wire and "plug" it into the plastic peice.  Don't confuse it with Scotch-Locks; they're similar but not the same.  If you don't have a clue as to what I'm saying a quick Google search should find some pages with a pictures of these.

If the remote start system tries to start again than it knows that the engine has stopped (or it at least thinks that it is) and it shuts down and tries again. If you push the brake it stops trying again because the brake is a shutdown trigger.

On my Viper system, you can find out what made the system shut down last time.  You hold down the program button, turn the key on-off, then let go, and the LED will flash 'x' number of times.  The manual tells you what the flashed code means.  Obviously, this method wouldn't work with your system but there may be a way to find out if you look in your manual. You'd need to let the system run all 3 times without interrupting it to see what it says. You may also want to re-learn the tach signal just for good measure.

init] wrote:

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Accessory Wires have voltage when the key is in ACCESSORY oršRUN positions.š The voltage usually drops oršgoes away completely when in the START position.

Ignition Wires have voltage when the key is in the RUN or START positions.š They don't lose voltage or power in START.

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eg0rka wrote:

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here is another thing
when i take my car off alarm it wotn start right away... i need to press a few buttons on a remote and then it allows me to start it (with the key ofcourse)

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Don't worry about the curly line between 85 and 86.  That's just showing you that's the coil inside the relay.

85 is connected to the output of your alarm, 86 is connected to ground.

87 is connected to a fused constant 12V source.  Make sure if you're using this to power an ignition wire that the voltage on the constant 12V doesn't drop out when the vehicle is starting.

30 is connected to the ignition wire in the car.  Nothing is connected to 87a in this application.