Wierd relay issue

Ok I thought I knew how relays worked but I can figure out why this would happen: I installed a an RS in a 2001 Blazer and i wanted to try a single relay bypass with a trimpot, but also have an anti-grind relay since it is for my aunt. Anyway, I installed almost everything and then plugged in the fuses and relays, but when I plugged in the relay for the bypass, the starter was energized. I only had two wires hooke dup to the relay: 85 to 12v+ and 86 to (-) out when running, which is also the same wire I used for my anti-grind relay. It was almost like the starter wire was pulling the 12volts through both relays. The RS was not even on so the (-) out when running wire was not on, so I cant figure out what the problem was. I ended up just cutting out the anti-grind relay. I almost bought a PLDATA for this bypass, but I changed my mind, and noe I am curious if I would have had the same rpoblem or even worse if I would have fries the PLDATA.

Oh yeah ansd finding a tach wire on that car was next to impossible. There was certainly no Red 32 pin connector at the PCM, there may have been 80 wires there like there should be on the 2.2", but the connector was a pastel blue, almost gray. ANd there were no injectors either, what a wierd setup.

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Jimbob

Beverly Hills

Tach wire on those is easy. Top of engine, passenger side at the coil. Either a white wire if it has one or the WHITE/ black

You can't beat a PLDATA for simplicity!

You were saying that you energized the bypass relay you made & the starter engaged, but where was pin 30 going to on the bypass relay ? Was this going back into the anti-grind relay ? What wires did the anti-grind relay & the bypass relay share. This is your problem area.

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Jeff
Velocity Custom Home Theater
Mobile Audio/Video Specialist
Morden, Manitoba CANADA

If this helps you cannot have the (-) side of the relay in a path towards the starter. Whether the relays coil (-) is directly connected to the starter side of the wire OR if another relay is added and completes the ckt so as the (-) side of any relay contacts the starter side of the wire before or after relay energize..
If you have only 2 wires (total) hooked up to the relay then yes you have wired it wrong. The relay at the very least cannot have less then 3 wires. Below should only be done with 30 & 86 negative in certain non motor circuits.

wire 1 > 30 and to 86 (positive)
wire 2 > 85 (negative trip wire)
wire 3 > 87a/87 which passes the positive from 30 to    
        either 87a/87

>>>> P.S. check the starter kill relay you should/might have installed (alarm?). You might find that it stays energized. Found that my excalibur gold, marksman LCD 2 way both keep the starter kill energized preventing starter grind even though it wasn't advertised

Last but not least. You could take the neg output of the alarm for the 3rd IGN or the one you used for the bypass and split it to starter kill relay DIODE ISOLATING IT (or just add yet another relay with the same theroy). I have split the outputs before to 2 relays and haven't noticed any issues yet.

Good luck

The ground out when running wire went to the orange wire on the three wire anti-grind relay, and it also went to pin 85 on the bypass relay, and pin 86 went to 12v+. I did not have pin 87a, 87, or 30 hooked up to anything yet, since I had not tried to bypass the passlock yet. So back to the anti-grind relay: it was a prewired three wire harness with a diode and a jumper as you are likley familiar with.   pin 30 went to key side of starter wire and pin 87a went to starter side. I did not check to see if the (-) out when running wire was on all the time or not, and I likely wont try to do so since I already put it all back together. Wouldn't the car see both resistences when started with the key though if that were the case?

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Jimbob

Beverly Hills

did you diode isolate the orange (from alarm)with 1 diode to the bypass relay after the split and 1 diode to the starter kill again after the split? The split being of course where you made the 1 orange wire 2 to connect to both relays?
I have seen (and done) this before and the trouble is that the starter wire key side finds ground when NOT in the "START" position. So the current flows through both relay coils and kinda completes the ckt. Usually it cause the relay(s) to "chatter" but not always.
If you installed the starter kill relay you can test the to see if the start will grind and you might get lucky. A quick try shouldn't hurt anything.
Also, does the security light come on after inserting the key in the ign and touching the brake pedal?

No, the security light does not come on after I put the key in and press the brake. I heard some people mention that happening to them before and I remember one guy saying that if you turn the key to start before hitting th brake that it usually solves that problem. I am curious if that does end up happening, I may have to install that relay back in there and use 2 diodes. I tried it with one, but that didint work so I thinbk I see what you are saying: Y the (-) out when running wire. then put a diode on each wire, then hook those two wires to each relay. I think that makes sense because the second diode will stop the flow. When I was thinking about how to use the diode, it just didint make sense to use one, but when you use two it makes more sense.

Thanks a lot: ...So is that the way I should always do that if I want to use two relays off one (-) out wire?

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Jimbob

Beverly Hills