door lock pulse too long?
Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Security and Convenience
Forum Discription: Car Alarms, Keyless Entries, Remote Starters, Immobilizer Bypasses, Sensors, Door Locks, Window Modules, Heated Mirrors, Heated Seats, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=97328
Printed Date: May 17, 2024 at 7:24 PM
Topic: door lock pulse too long?
Posted By: mmh1
Subject: door lock pulse too long?
Date Posted: September 21, 2007 at 5:31 PM
Hi,
I've just fitted an alarm to a 1997 VW Golf VR6 it seems that the pulse for unlock is too long and lowers the windows due to the comfort system.
Is there a way to overcome this? The factory default is 0.7 sec with an option of 4 sec also. I have set it to 0.7sec but it still lowers the windows a little every time I unlock.
The locking system is a Positive Vacuum system. Can anyone advise me what to do?
The alarm has 6 wires to control the c/locking labelled as:
BLACK - Lock NC (+7A)
GREEN - Lock COM (+7A)
PINK - Lock NO (+7A)
WHITE - Unlock NC (+7A)
PURPLE - Unlick COM (+7A)
ORANGE - Unlock NO (+7A)
Also a separate Grey wire wich outputs a negative for 30sec on arming. I have used a SPDT relay to change the output to a positive for 30sec and connected it to the cars lock wire and so the autoclosure works well.
The only problem now is the unlocking causing the windows to go down a little.
Replies:
Posted By: Velocity Motors
Date Posted: September 21, 2007 at 7:25 PM
You can try to 5 wire the lock and unlock wire so that you trigger only the motor wire and not the BCM side of the wire that also controls the window circuit.
-------------
Jeff
Velocity Custom Home Theater
Mobile Audio/Video Specialist
Morden, Manitoba CANADA
Posted By: KPierson
Date Posted: September 21, 2007 at 10:13 PM
You could also possibly pulse the ignition circuit with the door lock circuit (I would relay isolate it). The windows shouldn't drop if the igniton is on. There may be a host of other issues with doing this (RAP, for one, if equipped) but it may be an easy fix.
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Kevin Pierson
Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: September 22, 2007 at 2:32 AM
Sound like you are testing the install and not "letting it sit" On a MkIII Golf if you turn thr alarm off within the total close time set ie about 15secs. this will happen. Just wait 30secs. and then see if it happens. In real life how often are you going to turn alarm off within 12secs.? Kevin P might be right I've never tried that but Jeff, its a vacuum system so NO MOTOR WIRES!
Posted By: Velocity Motors
Date Posted: September 22, 2007 at 9:20 AM
howie ll wrote:
Sound like you are testing the install and not "letting it sit" On a MkIII Golf if you turn thr alarm off within the total close time set ie about 15secs. this will happen. Just wait 30secs. and then see if it happens. In real life how often are you going to turn alarm off within 12secs.?
Kevin P might be right I've never tried that but Jeff, its a vacuum system so NO MOTOR WIRES!
GRAY - LOCK and GREEN - UNLOCK
These wires are found in the connector on the side of the driver's kick panel going into the molex at the driver's door. Please see image that I took on the 1997 GTi that I installed a remote starter / alarm system into last year...... there are wires for the vacuum system as you can see by the image.
LOCK & UNLOCK WIRES------------- Jeff
Velocity Custom Home Theater
Mobile Audio/Video Specialist
Morden, Manitoba CANADA
Posted By: Chris Luongo
Date Posted: September 22, 2007 at 12:14 PM
This would be costly and time-consuming, but you could buy two DEI 528T pulse timers.
The output of the 528T can be set to be as short as a half second.
Use one to activate lock, the other to activate the unlock.
Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: September 22, 2007 at 12:39 PM
Jeff, these are NOT MOTOR wires they are the trigger wires they join the same colours from the other door to the vacuum pump behind the r/hand tail light. In your fine picture you can clearly see the vacuum line. Chris you are right, I use that method to get differential closing on late E36 3 series BMW's. If you have the roof down initiating lock will open it a fraction (about 11/2 secs). I end up with a relay set to 33secs for the roof a relay set (on arm) for 2secs controlled by the alarms auxilliary outputs.for deadlocking and a timer to turn off locks after 0.8secs. If you read my last post you will see why the pulse timer relay is unneccessary unless MMH1 has SET UNLOCK TIME DELAY AS WELL AS LOCK OR LEFT ON A 3.5 SEC PULSE (remember the old M/Benz Audi's?) SORRY YOU TWO, THAT JUST OCCURRED TO ME I've done loads of MkIII's, if you trn off alarm inside of the initial time delay it will always bring down the windows for what's left of that delay. You get a similar result with E36 BMW where you can turn off the alarm inside the delay time but the doors will stay locked
Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: September 22, 2007 at 12:55 PM
PS for Jeff's benefit (Velocity motors) I know I'm being anal but the only way to do a 5wire or MORE CORRECTLY MOTOR INTERRUPT would be to go into the rear pump unit and go into the leads coming from the circuit board to the motor and having stripped and repaired them (M/Benz, Audi and VW are all basically the same) you don't want to do that! In other words the lock motors on these vehicles were pumps not electric solenoids.
Posted By: Velocity Motors
Date Posted: September 22, 2007 at 3:33 PM
No worries howie II, just giving up different option on the board to see if it viable or not.
-------------
Jeff
Velocity Custom Home Theater
Mobile Audio/Video Specialist
Morden, Manitoba CANADA
Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: September 22, 2007 at 6:29 PM
No problems Jeff its just that I've been back in the UK since 83, installing Clifford product since '90 when we imported them privately, I seem to have spent the intervening time mostly on BMW, VW-Audi and Japanese grey (fast and furious wannabee) imports. I'm a complete rookie when it comes to GM Chrysler and US Ford except Mustang and Focus, my only by-pass knowledge is DEI 'cause that's all we've got here, hell I've got 20 assorted Clifford, Viper etc T shirts because I've written the hymnsheet on European cars. Any knowledge I have on Fortin, Trilogix, Compustar etc. has been kindly given to me by KarTune Man, Enice and Swerks. You may or may not realise that Euro GM 's (Vauxhall-Opel) are more similar electrically to VW than their US brethren, Honda Civic and CRX are made here, and are different to US made variants (Just go on the US and UK Honda websites, look at interiors and you will see what I mean) Alarms are different too, I might start a post to enlighten our US friends on CAT I alarms, direction indicators, fenders v. wings, trunks and hoods v. boots and bonnects!
Posted By: Chris Luongo
Date Posted: September 22, 2007 at 7:35 PM
Howie, that would be great!
I'm very familiar with Japanese and American cars, but not too much with the European cars.
Starting to do some European cars for remote start. They're not all that terribly bad to work on with a little practice, and it's easy to get good money, because hardly anyone else will touch them.
Any knowledge you could share would be most appreciated.
Posted By: Velocity Motors
Date Posted: September 22, 2007 at 9:53 PM
I'm starting to do more VW's, Audi's and some BMW's here in my neck of the woods. The only thing is that there's no dealership in this area and the amount of cars that we do mainly consist of Chryslers, Ford, & Chevy's with some Japanese imports.
Regardless, the extended door lock pulse is still an issue for the member and hope he fixes this problem.
-------------
Jeff
Velocity Custom Home Theater
Mobile Audio/Video Specialist
Morden, Manitoba CANADA
Posted By: enice
Date Posted: September 23, 2007 at 12:31 AM
I've actually had the same issues with an Acura TL. The windows would go down as soon as it got unlocked and or remote started but here is the catch.....it would happen as soon as I armed and then disarmed in a few secs. Wound up telling the customer to wait at least 15 secs and then disarm the car and the windows would not roll down and of course, they didnt. Reason being was that I progammed comfort closure for that vehicle which means that as soon as he armed the system it would roll the windows up. I think that its affecting the way it works because the same was done for another honda which of course is together with acura but the rearm wire was not connected and the system didnt roll down. just thought i'd share my thoughts.
Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: September 23, 2007 at 5:01 AM
Re Enice's comments about Accura:- We've now gone full circle just turn on alarm and walk away. If you've set total (comfort) close for approx.15secs and unlock for 1sec then after 15secs no problem. I always take great pains to explain this to owners of MkIII Golf/Jettas and E36 BMW's.
Posted By: mmh1
Date Posted: September 23, 2007 at 7:18 PM
Thank you guys for throwing up some options to a novice like me it is very interesting.
Here's some diagrams from the instructions some more food for thought especially the central locking configurations:
Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: September 24, 2007 at 2:49 AM
I think you've programmed unlock pulse for 3.5secs, bring it back to 1sec!
Posted By: kola7126
Date Posted: September 24, 2007 at 7:54 AM
howie ll wrote:
I think you've programmed unlock pulse for 3.5secs, bring it back to 1sec!
And programmed lock pulse 20sec (if it possible in this alarm). Rearm during 1min. after arming- open window.
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