door actuators not working w/ alarm?
Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Security and Convenience
Forum Discription: Car Alarms, Keyless Entries, Remote Starters, Immobilizer Bypasses, Sensors, Door Locks, Window Modules, Heated Mirrors, Heated Seats, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=97707
Printed Date: April 18, 2024 at 11:48 AM
Topic: door actuators not working w/ alarm?
Posted By: slamdaccord
Subject: door actuators not working w/ alarm?
Date Posted: October 05, 2007 at 11:10 AM
i recently installed 1 door actuator in a 95 escort. i have the actuator mounted and tested it with a battery to make sure it pulls and pushes the lock up & down and it does work..i ran the wires to the alarm lock/unlock harness (blue/green) and connected the wires...when i hit arm/disarm...the actuator barely moved and didnt pull/push the lock..i thought i had the wires backwards maybe so i switched them..it still did the same thing... after doing that i tested the actuator w/ the battery again, and it worked still pushing and pulling the rod up and down....so what do i do now? the alarm i have is a Viper 650XV. below are pictures of the install just to show how everything is wired and if anything is wrong please let me know..pics arent that great quality b/c they were taken w/ my phone 
Replies:
Posted By: perly
Date Posted: October 05, 2007 at 11:51 AM
well aside from questioning why you cut part of your door to make the actuator fit I think I know why the actuators are not working. quite simply they need more power. you need to hook up relays to them so they get the full amount of power needed for full excursion.
Now that being said I cannot remember off the top of my head the exact wiring but it is pretty basic.(basically connect one side of coil to 12v and the other to neg door trigger and 30 to ground(if it is positive trigger from the brain then reverse what i said)) oh yah and you will need two relays - one for lock and one for unlock
Someone please correct me if I am wrong but I am pretty sure that this is the case.
Posted By: perly
Date Posted: October 05, 2007 at 12:04 PM
ok so here is the relay schematic that you will need
Posted By: slamdaccord
Date Posted: October 05, 2007 at 12:42 PM
actually i just realized i forgot to mention i tried using the DEI 451M 5-Wire Relay and using that it didn't even make the actuator move AT ALL. the door was already cut like that b/c there was an older alpine alarm in it from the previous owner but yet there were no actuators (at least not when i got the car) which makes me think there were actuators in it at one point DEI 451M: 
Posted By: perly
Date Posted: October 05, 2007 at 2:59 PM
i don't have any DEI relay packs on hand now so I can't check, but are they wired the exact same way as the diagram shows? if you look on the back of them it will tell you what the pins are wired for/how they are wired. If they are identical then I am not sure what to say but if not then you should just go get some regular five pin relays and wire them up as per the diagram.
Posted By: burns25
Date Posted: October 05, 2007 at 4:22 PM
if you use the 451m did you ground the WHITE/ black and BROWN / black wires? if not you will get nothing.
Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: October 05, 2007 at 6:01 PM
Use the 451 if the alarm comes only with a blue and green wire for the locks; I would also have asked why the doors were cut into but that's been answered BUT at a glance the motor is mounted badly, look at lower bracket AND it's at the wrong angle! Rod from motor should pull parellel to door linkage; I always check static, ie how easy is it to pull lock linkage up and down by pulling on top of motor.
Posted By: slamdaccord
Date Posted: October 05, 2007 at 6:43 PM
howie ll wrote:
Use the 451 if the alarm comes only with a blue and green wire for the locks; I would also have asked why the doors were cut into but that's been answered BUT at a glance the motor is mounted badly, look at lower bracket AND it's at the wrong angle! Rod from motor should pull parellel to door linkage; I always check static, ie how easy is it to pull lock linkage up and down by pulling on top of motor.
what do u mean wrong angle? i thought i had it parallel? and i did check the factory lock, it is easy to pull/push to lock/unlock.......i did use the 451 and it didnt do anything.....
Posted By: captainzab
Date Posted: October 05, 2007 at 11:30 PM
looking at the picture, the actuator is parallel to the movement of the doorlock rod, so that isnt the problem.
(his escort, like most ford lock simply moves up and down, ignore that slant)
anyways, make sure the 451m is wired:
the 2 fused purple wire should go to a 12v constant
white and brown wire should go to ground
the blue and green wires go to the actuator (might need to reverse these)
the thin wires off the 451m plugs into the doorlock harness.
Check your wiring again, probably should tape your connection so that it doesn't accidentally ground.
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Note: You Always Dont Get What You Pay For.
Posted By: techman93
Date Posted: October 05, 2007 at 11:39 PM
All I have to say is RELAYS RELAYS RELAYS
Posted By: KarTuneMan
Date Posted: October 05, 2007 at 11:46 PM
I have to disagree with you zab. The closer to the direction, angle ....what ever you want to call it, the easier the movement will be. As how stated, checking "static" how easy doesit push and pull with your finger on the pull. Also, check the throw on the actuator motor. does it bottom out in either direction.... ? Try and avoid this! Screw them relay packs. use your own, wire them like perlys diagram. -------------
Posted By: captainzab
Date Posted: October 06, 2007 at 12:12 AM
is this not how you would have hooked up the actuator?
if not, give the guy a picture
(because i have always been mounting it parallel and close to the end rod (like the picture) and it has always worked, havent had anyone come back either.)
dont think there is a difference in quality in actuator, so strength of actuator doesnt matter. (because i use cheap generic non-dei kind) ------------- Note: You Always Dont Get What You Pay For.
Posted By: slamdaccord
Date Posted: October 06, 2007 at 12:19 AM
dont worry i always solder and tape my connections, those wires were just bare to show you how everything was connected.....i did have the purple wire on the 451m to 12volt, blue/green wire going to blue/green off actuator except the BROWN / white wires were NOT grounded...so was that the problem and if i do that tomorrow it will solve it? or do i really need to do the reverse polarity switch with 2 relays?
Posted By: captainzab
Date Posted: October 06, 2007 at 12:36 AM
100% sure if you use the 451m again and ground the black and white wire it will work.
no need for the separate relay since the way im telling you to wire it is reversing polarity.
problem solved...
Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: October 06, 2007 at 1:54 AM
Slam, sorry if I sounded insulting but that wasn't my intention, our Escort wasn't the same as yours, they all had central locking! The angle just looked wrong! But you still didn,t read the 451 instructions, ref adding an actuator.READ AND TEST
Posted By: slamdaccord
Date Posted: October 06, 2007 at 10:58 AM
i had a 451m laying around in my toolbox w/ no instructions.....so..yea
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