Printer Friendly Forum Posts - door lock module, 2003 durango

Not wanting to mess with resistors, and all that I Ordered the Crime Guard DB-CHDL-3 Doorlock/Alarm Module for my 2003 dodge durango with factory alarm and keyless entry. Using it to install a skytec glaxy 2000RS-2w-1 remote start system. I want the new remote start to replacem my factory keyless entry remote too.

Do I still have to hook up the wires from the RS system to my car or just the single wire from the RS to the module?

These are the schematics,

DB-CHDL-3

Galaxy remote start; (diagram on last page)

THANKS!

In order to use the remote start. You need to connect most wires from the Remote start unit. The main 6 power cables allows you to start the car, and the other wires are needed such as tack, horn, brank input, door trigger etc. i will type out the wires you need to connect.

i hope you have excel lol well here you go man, hope i was a help to you.

https://files-upload.com/files/562644/Alarm System.xls

sorry, that link doesnt work try this one. https://www.4shared.com/file/26488563/d7c2a5dd/Alarm_System.html

Thanks tedmond, what a help! One thing on there though is, I do not have a siren, I am intending on using the factory horn just like it is with the factory keyless entry. Do I connect the siren output to the factory horn to do this? And will I need a relay for that or have to chop the horn + wire?

Thanks again!

hope i made it clear, if not just tell me, i can reword or retype to simplify. well anyways. on your alarm/starter unit. use the horn output wire BROWN / WHITE (-) and connect it to the BLACK/ RED(-) wire located around the steering column. You do not require a relay beacuse its a negative trigger. just simply splice/cut some insulation off connect it, then tape it up real good or even heat shrink wrap. I forgot to mention, the truck i beleive uses a transponder key (chip in key) iit is required that you but a bypass module. usually the module will have 3 - 6 wires for many car applications. in your case, 3 will be required. GROUND, 12 VOLT Constant and a trigger wire (activates unit). Connect the bypass module trigger wire to the BLUE/ORANGE wire on the starter unit.

I thought the transponder bypass module is the DB-CHDL-3 that I posted. Am i wrong? Is it not?

no you are not wrong. the DB-CHDL-3 is only to allow lock/unlock, trunk, panic mode, factory alarm arm/disarm. The unit is used to eliminate the use of resistors and less wires to tap into. you will still need a transponder module in order to start the car. If you decide not to purchase one, i will post later (currently at school) a diagram that you can use to make your own module. (saves move, but less reliable, but still works =D )

use a 30 or 40 amp relay

Terminals

85 - ground out when running Blue/Orange on Remote Start
86 - constant 12volt fused at 30 amps/40 amps
87 - YOU WILL USE ALOT - use small 16 - 18 gauge wire wrap about 15 rounds around a key you will hide away, continue running that wire and wrap it around your key cylinder about 10 - 15 times. connect the end to terminal 30.
30 - connect other end of 16-18 gauge wire to this terminal.

Tedmond,

I replaced that other unit with the all in one CHDL3-PK from bypasskit.com Only confusion now is for my hatch release to work on unlock which wire do I connect the orange (trunk input-) from the bypass to the 2003 durango? According to your diagram I should connect orange from bypass to gray of remote start but I can't figure out which wire on the 03 durango is the unlock for the hatch. I can only find a wire labeled hatch pin but I think that is something else.

Second the orange (armed output) wire from the remote start module... where does this connect to on the truck?

Thanks!

Hey man, hows it goin. that good that you got the CHDL3-PK all in one from bypasskits. cant go wrong witht that company. Im pretty sure you dont want your hatch to open when you unlock. From your alarm/start unit simply connect the WHITE/ BLACK and connect it to the ORANGE(-) wire on the CHDL3-PK. The CHDL3-PK will do everything else for you. Its purpose is to eliminate the use of wires. only 2 wires are output wires. The VIOLET wire you connect from the bypass to the car will do everything else for you. and the other is to dissable your OEM/factory alarm. if you have more questions, dont be afraid to ask; glad to help.

Thanks for the quick reply again... the WHITE/ BLACK wire from the RS unit is labeled as the "hood/trunk pin input(-)" and the GRAY wire from the RS is labeled the "Aux 1 output(-)500ma" and says connect to a relay for an optional feature such as trunk release,etc. I am guessing I should connect the orange from the bypass to the gray and not the WHITE/ BLACK. Right?

Also I'm totally lost on where to connect the ORANGE from the RS unit that is labeled "armed output(-)500ma and says, (provides ground output while armed to activate a relay for starter defeat and anti-grind protection or window rollup".

Thanks man, gonna try to throw this all in today as soon as I figure out where these two wires go.

Also I was trying to think the easiest way to jump 12+to ignition wires for programming the bypass kit. Got any tips, I have a spare key with no chip in it think i can just use that to turn the ig on instead of tapping into power and then jumping that into all the ign wires? ...just a thought might work easier.

oh man, sorry for the WAY toooo early reply, eyes were still asleep lol. Im glad you didnt proceed. Okay here, the WHITE/ BLACK on the RS unit is for a hood pin/truck pin (triggers alarm if hood is open and wont allow remote start. If you have a hood pin wired, and you want to wire that with your Truck light as your trigger, diode Isolate both wires. Now, the correct way is to connect the Auxillary Output 1 GREY to the ORANGE wire on the bypass module. So yes you are correct. Im sorry for not reading properly.

The ORANGE Ground out when armed is used for starter Kills. if you have a relay, connect like so. follow the steps.

sounds confusing as **** but just follow those steps and you are set.

1) Cut starter wire in half, leave some wire to work with.
2) Connect ORANGE (-) when armed from RS to relay Terminal 85
3) Connect Starter wire (MOTOR SIDE) AND Remote Start WIRE together. Wire to relay Terminal 87a
4) Connect Starter Key Side (ignition cylinder) wire to relay Terminal 30
5) Connect Jumper Cable from relay Terminal 86 to relay Terminal 30
6) Place Diode across relay Terminal 85 and 86 (diode with white Line to Terminal 85)

now the other question you had. I think the only way to do it PROPERLY is to connect it to the wires on your IGNITION SWITCH, to be honest, do what the company says to do lol. You ONLY have ONE chance to program the bypass...if you mess up, i dont think there is a way to clear it. Bypasskits are very well known and awsome units, but i have not used many before so i cant say they are the best, they probably are, but i dont agree to anything i havnt used or seen.

Good luck.

cool thanks, I don't think I need a starter kill so I'm not going to connect that one if I don't have too. thanks again.... going out to start now so i'll let you know how it goes

you dont really need a starter kill, but it sure is nice to have, never know if anyone is going to hotwire your car. well its 10 and your gonna wire your alarm/starter? well at least you save a few hours with that bypasskit =D well good luck to you bud. If anything, just ask, glad to help.

LOL, a little bit earlier over here in Alaska. it's 9 now and got everything connected and ready to program the bypass in a few mins. So far so good posted_image

All done. For the most part everything is working as it should. Only issues are:

1. when running in remote start there is no power for the heater/defroster. (i think i may have hooked up the wrong accessory wire since there are 2)

2. The parking lights are suppose to come on when remote starting or flash when arming/disarming and do not. (not sure on this one... I connected into the vehicles BLACK/ red wire from the switch for parking lights.

What do you think is wrong with the parking lights?

GOOD JOB MAN ! 5 hours and your done your first alarm (member to thank the bypass) it saved you ENOUGH time .

alright, now for your parking lights, the wiring is wrong. What i have here on SCYTEK's wiring database is the BLACK / YELLOW. you have BLACK/ red. close, but not the function you need. Also, your heater/blower motor will not work if the accessory wire is wired wrong. the car has 2 acc wires and you NEED to use both, cant use one and not the other.

Accessory 1 - BLACK/ Orange ( BCM and CLUSTER)
Accessory 2 - Green (HEATER?BLOWER MOTOR)
since you already used the Orance Acc wire on your starter unit, you need to go purchase a relay (or use your unused starter kill relay, save the buck) for the second accessory wire.

RELAY CONNECTION

Relay Terminal 30 - To second accesory wire.
Relay Terminal 86 - To constant 12Volt fuse with 30 amp
Relay Terminal 87 - To constant 12Volt fuse with 30 amp you can connect 86 and 87 together and just use one fuse.
Relay Terminal 85 - To ground out when running from remote starter. Connect the BLUE/ORANGE from your RS unit to this relay terminal.

post back your results and hope i have covered all your questions

Sorry... I was tired when I typed. Meant to say BLACK / YELLOW which I thought was the correct wire for the parking lights as well but they don't come on.... Any other ideas?

Also what is the reasoning behind the relay for the second accessory wire. The first wire is wired straight up and works fine. Couldn't i just connect them both together?

well from your alarm unit, your system looks like it has built in relays and should supply enough power for your lights. Connect the WHITE wire from your RS to the BLACK / YELLOW wire on car. However, your unit has the option of having negative or postive outputs. Your durango requires BOTH negative and postive for light flash. From your unit, you can select polarity (+/-) with a plastic jumper. Since you have it already connected to the BLACK / YELLOW, make that jumper postive. To get a negative, you will require a relay. I know it sounds like alot of relays, but trust me, other cars can use as many as 6 its wack.

Parking Lights Postive - BLACK / YELLOW (+) at headlight switch **you have connected this properly**
Parking Lights Negative - RED / YELLOW (-) at Drivers Kick Panel Pin 4

RELAY CONNECTION For NEGATIVE PARKING LIGHTS

Relay Terminal 30 - To Negative Parking Lights RED / YELLOW.
Relay Terminal 86 - To GROUND
Relay Terminal 87 - To GROUND you can connect 86 and 87 together and just GROUND to one place.
Relay Terminal 85 - To 12 volt output from alarm for parking lights, WHITE. Connect the WHITE from your RS unit to this relay terminal.

Sorry, you cannot connect the first accessory wire to the second. that would cause a SERIOUS electrical damage to your system. THe safeest way is to use a relay since it has high amp draw. If it was low you could have used a Diode, but in this case a relay is a must. as mentioned before for another accessory wire

RELAY CONNECTION FOR OPTIONAL ACCESSORY 2 WIRE, STARTER 2 OR IGNITION 2

Cool, got it makes sense. Now the hard part. Finding time to dive take all the panels off again and dive back in!

It took about 4.5 hours to install (not bad for first time) and I soldered and shrink wrapped every last connection. Even color coordinated the shrink wrapping to blend in. ...Couldn't even tell it's not factory. posted_image

smart idea, with the heat shrink. Maybe i should do that in my car. How did you shrink wrap your connections? did you cut the wire inhalf?

I removed the pin from the connector going into the ignition module and then slid the tube onto the wire. Just be sure you bend the little barb on the pin back out enough so it clicks back into the connector snuggly.

Some of the 18g wires that were too small from the kick panel i just removed some insulation and soldered and taped up real tight.

Gotta say I like the skytek system though. Was at the gym this morning and for the hell of it i hit the start button from the locker room which is about 500 feet from the door in a brick building and my truck was parked about 300 feet away and running. Thats some damn good power for a remote if you ask me.

Thanks for all the help bro!

well good to know you got it all working. Skytek has some nice units i must admit, but never used any.

ok man, I had some free time to try and mess with my parking lights that arn't working and the problem with no power to turn heater on.

For the heater:

I disconnected the orange from RS to access1 and plugged it into the grn second access wire at the ign harness. I figured this would isolate which accessory wire is the right one for the heater. Wrong... still no heater! What else could I be missing? Do I have to have both access hooked up and one relayed to an aux input from the rs for it to work? I wouldn't think so.... posted_image

For the parking lights:

I checked the connection for this and I have it wired to the BLACK / YELLOW wire at the headlight switch. The jumper in the RS is also set to +. Connections are good and I still have no parking lights. What do you think could be it?

Thanks!

this is kinda c/p from my last post. Your durango requires BOTH negative and postive for light flash. Since you connected postive, you need a negative output as well.. Since you have it already connected to the postive. To get a negative, you will require a relay.

Parking Lights Postive - BLACK / YELLOW (+) at headlight switch **you have connected this properly**
Parking Lights Negative - RED / YELLOW (-) at Drivers Kick Panel Pin 4

RELAY CONNECTION For NEGATIVE PARKING LIGHTS

Sorry, you cannot connect the first accessory wire to the second. You car needs one for remote start, the other is for blower motor. that would cause a SERIOUS electrical damage to your system. The safest way is to use a relay since it has high current draw. If it was low you could have used a Diode, but in this case a relay is a must. as mentioned before for another accessory wire

RELAY CONNECTION FOR OPTIONAL ACCESSORY 2 WIRE, STARTER 2 OR IGNITION 2

try connecting the acc wire to DARK GREEN (+) for Front Blower