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concept 40 wiring, 98 windstar

Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Security and Convenience
Forum Discription: Car Alarms, Keyless Entries, Remote Starters, Immobilizer Bypasses, Sensors, Door Locks, Window Modules, Heated Mirrors, Heated Seats, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=98050
Printed Date: April 24, 2024 at 11:32 AM


Topic: concept 40 wiring, 98 windstar

Posted By: muff mcdiven
Subject: concept 40 wiring, 98 windstar
Date Posted: October 17, 2007 at 7:54 AM

i got a clifford concept 40 alarm old skool but it'll work for what i need it for . but i can't find the wiring diagram i've hooked it up b-4 pain in the ass but worked gr-8 i don't really wanna do the hole trial and oh doodie thing. but it is a friends car it's going into but i really cant blow it up ( he still got my lawn mower )   so if anyone has that book around or know's where online i can get it from that be great and do you have any idea where i could find a wire diagram for a 98 winstar  wagon ford v6 without paying 20.00 bucks on a site. thank for taking the time to help.                                                                                       




Replies:

Posted By: KarTuneMan
Date Posted: October 17, 2007 at 10:50 AM

https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/file.asp?ID=290

See if this will help.



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Posted By: muff mcdiven
Date Posted: October 17, 2007 at 1:50 PM

ha ha yes more then you know.  thanx.    i did find that site then i found this one  

https://www.pdf-zoo.com/manual.pl?manual=3282  it's got the 40 in it but wants to change for anything after the first page.  was thinking about it then you reminded me i already had everything eles on file so thank .

here i got one more for you when i did this b-4 we didn't run the remote start so here i am today confused.    on the starter / ign.  thingy  ( set the relay to normal open ) when we took it out of a car originally ( pre owned ) the white wire is in the 87 place not the 87a spot and it had the remote start working.   so what is the difference ( normal open ) what is that .......  so you can go key or remote ?   or am i way off ?    thanx for the help.   

it's all right getting the lawn mower back tonight ..........





Posted By: muff mcdiven
Date Posted: October 17, 2007 at 4:53 PM
yep way off nevermind i ah tarted......i still need to know what the difference is weather it's open or closed




Posted By: muff mcdiven
Date Posted: October 19, 2007 at 8:53 PM

i got everything hooked up on the concept 40 except the remote start and if any one could answer some questions about that it be gr-8.....   but for now , i hooked everything up im sure it's rite, measure twise cut once type thing ...... put the fuse in and the alarm started and never stoped intill i removed the fuse did i go about something backwords or could the batt's in the remote be dead it's sat around for awile but not sure ........ thanx





Posted By: muff mcdiven
Date Posted: October 20, 2007 at 12:39 AM

  i'm working on the keyless entery on a 98 ford windstar, witch i thought it was 1 pos. and two neg's but i'm second quessing that the more i read i know it's only one pos. and one neg but the other might switch i've gotta test it yet .      my question i have to use a relay  correct but do i have to go with the diodes thingys and if so where do they go i get the reason for them i guess.............. to stop the current from backtracking correct. any help would be great thanx......





Posted By: tedmond
Date Posted: October 20, 2007 at 10:55 AM
alright, that sounds very confusing, but i think i get what your trying to say. you though that the windstar has a negative or postive lock, then you thought it was a reverse polarity. For your type of application of a keyless entry, the system is concidered a "Type B" Lock/Unlock system. Your keyless unit should have 3 wires for keyless entry. One postive for lock/unlock (user selectable) and 2 negative outputs, one dedicated to lock, other unlock. From your unit, connect the 2 negatives to the proper lock/unlock wires on the car. The negative pulse from the unit will tell the FACTORY relays to unlock/lock. You might run into problems such as the output does not supply enough power out to lock/unlock and will require a relay. If you require a relay, purchase 2 - 12volt 30 amp relays, and 2 - 1amp diodes that will run across terminals 86 and 85 of the realy to prevent "FEEDBACK" when you put a diode across the relay, it adds life to your relay, and allows the power on the coil to dissapate on the circuit itself to prevent damage to the things you connected it to. GOOD





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