I am having the hardest time finding a Tach wire in my '07 Chevy Express. The information from Audiovox says it's a white wire in a black connector near the drivers shock tower. I checked the white wire in that connector and it is not the tach. Can anyone tell me exactly where to pick up the tach in this vehicle??
Thanks,
Tom M
It sucks @ the PCM under the hood, drivers side fenderwell
BROWN / white, blue plug pin #73
-------------
Awsome, I'll check it out tomorrow! Thanks for the help.
Tom
Does the system you are installing offer voltage sensing as an option? I know with the full size trucks the GM truck platform incorporates their starter delete system(or whatever they call it), but I do not know for sure about the vans. In the starter delete system the vehicle electronics prevent over cranking and provides anti-grind from the factory. You do not need a tachometer connection with these vehicles, voltage sensing works fine. You will have to up the crank time on your system.
-------------
Installer, IT support, and FFL. I need less hobbies.
Twelvoltz, good call.
That would be the coolest way of doing the job.... cause as I stated, finding the tach stinks.
-------------
Twelvoltz wrote:
Does the system you are installing offer voltage sensing as an option? You do not need a tachometer connection with these vehicles, voltage sensing works fine. You will have to up the crank time on your system.
The install manual is confusing about this part. Nowhere does it say it offers voltage sensing. But then in the programable options list it shows
Input check...... voltage or Tach
Voltage level...... >0.5V B4 start or <0.5v B4 start
Now reading that would lead me to believe it does offer voltage sense. I am installing an Audiovox Prestige AS 9076 remote start upgrade module. I'd be curious to see if anyone can tell me exactly what type of signal the audiovox unit is looking to see on the tach input wire. Is it a pulsed positive or pulsed negative? If you're gonna tell me it's an AC signal, then why is it.
Yes your system has voltage sensing. Change your input check to voltage and increase your crank time if you can.
As far as your tachometer question you want the negative side of the coil. It is AC voltage but instead of writing all about it, read
here.
-------------
Installer, IT support, and FFL. I need less hobbies.
Yea, I saw that post. There looks to be some conflicting information in that post. In the beginning when he's talking about an old style coil and distributor setup ronco says......
"So merely running a wire to the "hot side" of the coil primary ( the other connection on the coil is typically tied to ground) and we have the "tach signal" for the RS system."
Then later down the post ronco says......
"Basically, each injector solenoid has 2 wires. One wire is "common" ( the same color at each solenoid) and is tied to +12V through usually a 20 amp fuse labeled INJ/COIL in the fuse panel. Each individual other wire on each solenoid goes through the harness and back to the computer which switches (pulses) that wire to ground to activate the injector at a frequency proportional to engine RPM . So all you need to do is tie on to one of these wires ( identified by the service manual) and bingo, there's your "tach signal".
First ronco says to hook to a positve in the distributor style but hook to a negative in the fuel injector example. I believe the correct way on a distributor ignition is to hook up to the negative wire on the coil. This is the wire that is make and break by the distributor. The positive lead on the coil is hot all the time. See here....... https://www.familycar.com/Classroom/ignition.htm also read this post for more interesting info........ https://www.physicsforums.com/showthread.php?t=40278 read farther down the post to get to the point.