The pre-wiring for a factory alarm probably won't provide any benefit to you. You have to add a relay and a few diodes to control the doorlocks. You can probably find the diagram online somewhere....possibly here. If you are not familiar with diodes and relays then interfacing with the factory locking system will probably be very tricky for you.
Not 100% sure on the following because it has been a few years since I have done a Highlander....but I believe if you tie into the wiring in the drivers door then a single pulse will unlock the drivers door, and a second pulse will unlock the rest of the doors. You'll just have to have the regular unlock output and the 2nd unlock output from the Viper both trigger the unlock relay you add in. Then just change the programming for 2-stage unlock.
Thanks for your reply JWorm. To clarify what you had said. I need to go 'inside the driver door' panel not kick panel to wire the 2- stage unlock. The connection will be tying both Viper regular unlock output and the programmable(H1/3 WHITE/ blue 200mA -) output to the highlander unlock wire (inside driver door). If that is the case, do I need a relay or just connect the 2 Viper's wire directly to the Highlander unlock wire.
One thing I noted is that the Viper user manual said the 2-stage unlock only work with a 4 button fob (with separate lock and unlock button). My came with only 3 button ( the one with lock/unlock are together in one button). It looks like I also need a new fob to make it all working.. I was hoping that the existing remote keyles fob would work.
Generally for progressive unlocking using DEI units(viper and such), you need two wires, like already mentioned.
1:blue-unlock- this wire goes to the driver doorlock actuator. Youre required to use a relay to pulse(+) to the driver door lock.
2:unknown wire-2nd unlock- this wire(forgot which wire)goes to the regular unlocking wire.
Btw, arent these model toyotas required you to apply directfax#1070?
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Houston,TX
"The two most common elements in the universe are H+ and stupidity" (Ellison).
Yes. This type of vehicle requires directfax#1070 which I do have (which child safety lock).
I still think with a 3 button key fob I can not set up 2 -stage unlock. Can any one confirm this. Thanks
drsharps wrote:
Thanks for your reply JWorm. To clarify what you had said. I need to go 'inside the driver door' panel not kick panel to wire the 2- stage unlock. The connection will be tying both Viper regular unlock output and the programmable(H1/3 WHITE/ blue 200mA -) output to the highlander unlock wire (inside driver door). If that is the case, do I need a relay or just connect the 2 Viper's wire directly to the Highlander unlock wire.
One thing I noted is that the Viper user manual said the 2-stage unlock only work with a 4 button fob (with separate lock and unlock button). My came with only 3 button ( the one with lock/unlock are together in one button). It looks like I also need a new fob to make it all working.. I was hoping that the existing remote keyles fob would work.
Yes you need to go into the drivers door. On directfax 1070 the "*" that says the wires can be found in the passenger kick are only referring to the passenger door wires...not the drivers door wires. You MUST get them in the drivers door.
Right at the brain you just tie the unlock output (blue) and the 2nd unlock output wire together. Then you still have to do the 2 diode/1 relay setup like the diagram shows.
To get "true" 2nd stage unlocking you will need to get 4 button remotes. Another option that may work is to use the trunk release output on the alarm for the 2nd pulse. First pulse from the normal unlock wire will unlock the drivers door, you would then hold the trunk release button down for 3 seconds and the rest of the doors would unlock.
Another thing to test is how quickly the 2nd pulse has to be received by the truck in order for all the doors to unlock. Lock the doors while standing outside the truck. Turn the key in the drivers door to unlock for a half second. The drivers door should unlock. Do it again a second time and see if the rest of the doors unlock. Keep increasing the time between the 1st and 2nd pulse until the rest of the doors don't unlock. If the time between unlock pulses has to be less than 'X' seconds, then that is the length of time you will have to hit unlock (or trunk release) a second time on the remote.
Personally, I hate 2-stage unlocking and don't understand why anybody would ever want it.
Thanks for your help JWorm. It's clear for me now. I've pondered over your last statement and decided to do the normal unlock all doors at once. The only reason I want to install the 2 stage unlock because the factory remote does that (for security reason). But in reality, 90 percent of the time we always unlock all doors for the kids any way.
I am heading to the garage to start the alarm installation now. Again Thanks.
Doug