trunk trigger always tripped

These are my thoughts: 

The hood/trunk trigger is (-) RED / black on the 12P from the HT800, is this the wire that you've been using?  It's ground triggered so it shouldn't burn out unless you've connected it to the wrong thing.  What do you drive and what wire did you connect it to?

Did you test the trunk wire to ensure it's an open circuit when the trunk is closed, and closed circuit to ground when the trunk is open?  Voltage to ground?

It sounds like you plugged into something that had 12VDC while the car is on, and ground when the car is off.  That's the only way the diode would have burnt out.  Did it burn out when you turned on the car? 

KarTuneMan wrote:

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You NEED to tell us what your driving!

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one more time......

Unless you got er fingered out?

Maybe he's locked in the trunk.

Find the black wire and ground it, it should fire the trunk release solenoid, assuming it's ground triggered

mrcanngo wrote:

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In the end, i just totally disengaged my trunk trigger and i still get the false paging problem.

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When you hooked up the trunk to the doors, it'll be fine as long as you diode isolate all 3 triggers, I guess you flipped it around and might have damaged the alarm.

You might have damaged your diodes, causing your false alarms.  Try disconnecting the door trigger, if that stops your false alarms then you've isolated the problem.  Then start rebuilding the triggers with new 6A diodes. 

Dave.

In addition to that, you might want to try diode isolating your BCM so that your alarm won't see any activity from the BCM which grounds the trigger momentarily. 

Did you happen to disconnect the power to the BCM(Long enough for it to reset and lose memorized settings?) prior to all your false alarms?

Not sure what wire you found as the trunk trigger, but if it's a positive it aint the right wire. The correct wire is a negative, ORANGE / black at the BCM.connector C1, pin 55. My guess is after the diode you installed fried it damaged the alarm itself....

Mike M2 wrote:

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Not sure what wire you found as the trunk trigger, but if it's a positive it aint the right wire. The correct wire is a negative, ORANGE / black at the BCM.connector C1, pin 55. My guess is after the diode you installed fried it damaged the alarm itself....

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All the paperwork i found about this cars trunk trigger said that it was negative but i found the ORANGE / black wire at bcm connector c1 and measured it.  It is indeed positive.  I tested it over and over closing and opening the trunk and it worked.

I left the BCM disconected for about a minute to see if it would clear and it seemed to help a little.  it seems really random when the trunk trigger will trip now.  Sometimes it goes for a couple of hours okay and then sometimes it doesn't.  I'll try to check the door triggers and see if i can disconnect them and see if that helps.

Thanks for all the help so far!

Hey,

I've got the HT800 also, just installed it, on an 2003 Impala, I think I have a similar BCM.  I also started getting trips on the doors and trunk triggers after a set amount of time.

I've determined that while the BCM is powered on, for whatever reason, it will read positive voltage, that's why you need to diode isolate your alarm, so it sees an open circuit regardless the 12VDC.  Once you power down your car, the BCM powers off slowly, and that's why it'll begin tripping after a certain amount of time(random, dependent on some other factors).  I measured the BCM while it powers down, and over time the resistance to ground increases, which is causing our random tripping.

I haven't done so, but I will try diode isolating the BCM in the same way we did multiple triggers, so that the BCM grounding will not ground any other trigger wires. 

The door and hood triggers seem to act the same.  When you disconnected your trunk trigger and it kept triggering, are you sure it wasn't he door trigger that went off?  Look carefully on your remote, it should display the doors, it's hard to see but it's there.

I'll let you know how the diode isolation works.

Hey,

The diode isolation seemed to work!

Last night I tried a resistor in line, 56Kohms, it allowed the BCM to partially ground, and not trip the alarm, and allowed the door opening(grounding) to trip the "door open" on the alarm, but after 1.5 hours, the alarm's resistance to ground must have increased as the capacitors drained, and it started tripping again, that's why I went to diodes.

I put in the diodes tonight, and I am having no tripping of the alarm due to trunk or doors.  I've only had the car off for 1 hour, but since it's diodes, I don't think the slowly increasing grounding of the BCM will cause it to trip.

I'm surprised there was no mention of diode isolating the BCM from the triggers in any of the install manuals I used.  Maybe it's just a design fault of Chevy BCMS? 

Hey, that may have solved my problem, but hasn't yours worked for 1 year, and it just began tripping?  Maybe it's something we did to our BCM's. 

Any expert advice on this?

Wow, that's good customer service!  Good to see, they are tryign hard to make a good product and support it as well. 

I didn't diode isolate the ground wire on my BCM.  I meant diode isolate the BCM triggers.

What I meant was that I diode isolated the door trigger wire on the BCM from the driver door and passenger door triggers.  In the same way you diode isolate the driver door trigger from the passenger door trigger.  So you just have to cut the driver door trigger to the BCM, and put a diode in there so negative current can flow into the BCM, then do the same thing for the passenger trigger.  And then finally, do the same thing for the trunk trigger. 

I just got through an entire night of sleep with the alarm armed, and nothing had gone off.  In the morning I just hit the start button and it started up!  So everything works well now. 

I think i have the 800E, so revision E version, I think you're using D, shouldn't be too different though.

Did you install those different alarms into diff cars?  What problems did you have?

It's not a bad alarm, the only problems I have with it, is that you cant' disable the parking light warning flasher, when you open your doors.  And you can't change the remote start time from 8mins to anything else.  Maybe I should ask if there's a setting for this that isn't listed in the book?

Otherwise, great alarms, and great range.  I'm going to try using an iwind surf antenna thing to boost the range of mine.  It's a directional antenna mod made for 802.11b networks, might work.

https://www.freeantennas.com/projects/template2/index.html

There's the web page where you can get the template for the directional antenna.  Might be a great way to improve operating range, probably not practicle for auto use, but might help even on the remote side of things.  Worth a try if your appartment is far away from your car, and you still want contact, I think you could just put the remote into the center and it'll direct the signal accordingly.

COOL! Great to hear!

I was beginning to regret that I didn't purchase the starter with an alarm, where you could set a time to start the car, and change the start times.  But if this one can increase start times above 8 mins, that would be perfect!  The other alarm could even sense temperature, and keep the temp above a certain temperature!    I don't need that though, but I'm sure that'd be handy in certain places.

Looking forward to the info! 

Thanks mrcanngo!

You're awesome, my PDF manual and the paper manual that came with it doesn't have the starter time change.. I hope they just forgot to add it in the manual!  And that they didn't remove the function from the 800E, that would be really weird!

The door open alert was actually in there, I missed it. haha.  I'm pretty sure I didn't miss the starter one tho.  Because I got my bro to go through it too, and he couldn't find it. 

I'm gonna try it right now! Thanks!

COOL!

That was so easy!  Pushed the brake, held the valet, pushed unlock/lock until I heard 3 chirps, and let go of brake! Simple as that.  Thanks a bunch, I was getting a little annoyed that my alarm could only run the car for 8 mins! I had to do that twice in the morning, and that wasn't even warm enough, that's only 8 mins.  I take 20-30 mins to get out the door after I wake up, so I've set it to 24 mins.  I think the left that out of my manual to reduce global warming, warming up your engine could lead to more polution due to idle.  But that can be argued, if you're giving it gas when the catalytic converter isn't active, you're producing more toxins than if you warmed up the engine before working it.  But they'd have to do a trade off study on that to figure out the benefits of each. 

Wow, my alarm works so great now!  I only have a few things that aren't perfect, I didn't make the bypass go through the ignition, so hijack mode doesn't shut down the engine, but it does keep the car from starting.  And my parking lights aren't hooked up, I think they look stupid when they blink anyways, don't need that.  Everything else works pretty well. 

I put my siren inside the car, this way it protects the car, but doesn't disturb people outside.  What theif wants to be stuck inside a car with a siren?  That'll get him to run away, or blow his ears out! haha.  If I were him I'd slam the door and walk away, which is what an alarm is supposed to do anyways right? 

So mrcanngo, did you get your tripping/trunk problem sorted out?  The diode isolation really worked for me, I haven't had any false alarms since I've done that.  I park downtown too!  I put my shock sensor to minimal sensitivity, you'd have to crash into my car to set it off.  I have my microwave sensor protecting the interior anyways, so that's all I need.  I hate sensitive shock sensors and sirens outside the cars, all those cars do is false alarm and annoy everyone else.

Thanks for the help man!  Who would have thought this bargain from the internet would end up working so well.  Range is great too ;o)  Not many complains from me ;o)  Response time could be better, but nothing's perfect. 

I'm in Ladner, not much car theft out here, but I park downtown. haha.  Pretty much central for car breakins/theft. 

I'll give the remote start's unlock/lock feature a try tomorrow, since my remote start runs for 26 minutes I should be able to get in there before it shuts off this time ;o)!  thx again for that.

The remote's response is instant, turns off right away, but the manual says you have to push the button's slow, 0.5 sec key strokes, and that's a little annoying.  Remote start doesn't always active, neither doos trunk open, but unlock/lock seems to work pretty quick.  The factory remote start installed on a dodge caliber 2007, was slower than this, so I guess I can't complain too much about it, and that was 1 way.

Hey, I tested the remote start, then unlock the doors and sticking the key in during remote starting running, and the doors lock after 15 seconds of driving once I push the brake pedal.  When I turn off the car the doors do unlock.  I guess my 800E version has had that fixed.  So there you go, a pretty much perfectly working alarm!

The start button on my remote doesn't activate when you click and push it in, you have to push a little harder, I guess the button's just a little gimped, but that's good, reduces chances of accidental starts ;o)