hornet 567t, 97 galant es
Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Security and Convenience
Forum Discription: Car Alarms, Keyless Entries, Remote Starters, Immobilizer Bypasses, Sensors, Door Locks, Window Modules, Heated Mirrors, Heated Seats, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=98669
Printed Date: May 20, 2024 at 11:03 AM
Topic: hornet 567t, 97 galant es
Posted By: masr1979
Subject: hornet 567t, 97 galant es
Date Posted: November 05, 2007 at 7:18 PM
Hi all.
I have a few screwy problems with my install. Remote start cranks, but it doesn't get to start the engine, but my main problem is with the valet/program switch; it's not allowing me to program any functions. I follow the instructions, but I can't get the car to learn to tach signal, or any sort of programing. When I press the button I get a "page" from the alarm module to the remote (showing the little phone on the screen), but the status light on the dash isn't doing what it's supposed to.
Aside from that everything else is working, and if I have the key in the ignition I can remote start the car, which got me to wonder if it could be something inmobilizer related since I'm not sure if the inmobilizer will not allow the engine to crank, and hence not start, or if it will allow it to crank, but not start. Now everything I have read so far led me to believe that I wouldn't need a bypass module, but again since I'm new to this I could have misinterpreted something.
Anyways I think the remote start is secondary to the valet/program switch issue, so if anyone could point me in the right direction I would appreciate it. For some reason I think my problem is something so obvious (aside from my lack of experience in this that is) that I'm going to laugh at myself later. Thanks in advance for any help guys.
Replies:
Posted By: Twelvoltz
Date Posted: November 05, 2007 at 7:47 PM
564T maybe? The system needs to see +12V on the ignition wire before it will allow you to program any features including learning the tach. When you say "if I have the key in the ignition I can remote start the car" I would have to think you mean you have the key turned forward, not just in the cylinder. It sounds like you either have the wrong ignition wire in the harness or something similar.
Where in Jersey are you?
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Installer, IT support, and FFL. I need less hobbies.
Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: November 06, 2007 at 10:54 AM
Don't know if this is relevant but I immobilised a Shogun/Pajero/Montero (diesel) yesterday and there were 2 wires on the starter side, a BLACK / YELLOW and a BLACK/ red. If this vehicle has a transponder (which I doubt) it will crank but not start.
Posted By: masr1979
Date Posted: November 06, 2007 at 4:58 PM
twelevoltz yup I meant 564t oops. Anyways, I tried today to remote start the car with the key in the cylinder, but not in "acc" or "on" and your right cranks up, but doesn't actually start. which brings to question if the system can crank the engine without seeing the +12volts. Lastly I'm in Middlesex County, Perth Amboy.
howie everything I've read so far leads me to believe that the car as, you assume, doesn't have a transponder.
Since it says it's optional I didn't connect on of the 3 power wires from the relay satellite, would that have anything to do with it? also can I just splice all my power wires to the constant 12volt on the ignition? or should I re-route some to the battery? Since it says that ever 12inches I have to install a fuse I wanted to evade that route, but if I must then I will. Thanks for the suggestions guys.
Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: November 06, 2007 at 5:28 PM
Drop the steering column cowl and look at ign switch barrel, there will be an antenna there if you have a transponder. I know Perth Amboy, I have relatives in Asbury Park and Monmouth.
Posted By: Twelvoltz
Date Posted: November 06, 2007 at 5:29 PM
You NEED that RED / white wire. You do not need to add a fuse, it has a third already on that design. I wish DEI would update their manuals. The RED / white USED to be hooked up as a jumper on the relay pack. When they say it is optional they are only referring their older design and to vehicles that required additional power for their accessory/ignition circuits above what the 2 30amp supplies would provide. The RED / white is mandatory in any application now. Your vehicle only has one power supply wire to the ignition switch so yes you can hook all 3 constants to that one supply. Hook up that third supply and you should be good to go.
And for your reference, any item you add should have a fuse as close to the supply as possible. Within 12" is just a guideline to follow, the closer to the supply the better.
I'm in South Jersey, didn't know if you were closer.
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Installer, IT support, and FFL. I need less hobbies.
Posted By: masr1979
Date Posted: November 06, 2007 at 5:55 PM
Ok guys, thanks. I'm pretty sure that I haven't seen an antenna anywhere near the ignition, and since I've been running around with the ignition's cover off for a few days I'm pretty sure I haven't missed it.
I'll try connecting the wire then. The wire that's not connected is actually a solid red one; I connected one solid red and the RED / white. The only reason I didn't connect the other one was because I wasn't sure if having so many wires connected to the same source would have negative implications.
I also haven't connected the orange wire from the relay satellite, "ground when armed" I believe. I'm guessing this just needs to be connected to ground right? sucks that I won't have much time to tinker around with these things 'til the weekend.
Posted By: Twelvoltz
Date Posted: November 06, 2007 at 6:04 PM
masr1979 wrote:
I also haven't connected the orange wire from the relay satellite, "ground when armed" I believe. I'm guessing this just needs to be connected to ground right? sucks that I won't have much time to tinker around with these things 'til the weekend.
The orange ground when armed out is not a mandatory connection. Do not ground it, it is a ground supply output not an input. ------------- Installer, IT support, and FFL. I need less hobbies.
Posted By: masr1979
Date Posted: November 14, 2007 at 7:41 AM
Well I connected all 3 power cables from the relay satellite and still no joy. Pressing the program button is still paging the receiver. Any other suggestions guys?
Posted By: masr1979
Date Posted: November 14, 2007 at 7:53 AM
I think I will uninstall it, and re-install a few things at a time. Maybe this way I can find out at exactly what part I'm screwing up. Since aside from the valet/program switch not working to program the alarm, and as a result of that not being able to teach the tach to the remote starter, the alarm is working fine I'm not sure where to look for problems.
Posted By: Twelvoltz
Date Posted: November 14, 2007 at 8:47 AM
Check the yellow wire in the ribbon cable. This is the wire that feeds +12V back to the brain of the alarm to let it know the ignition is on. Without +12V on this wire the system will not go into program mode. Make sure your heavy pink wire is connected to an ignition and not an accessory wire as the yellow in the ribbon and the heavy pink wires are tied together.
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Installer, IT support, and FFL. I need less hobbies.
Posted By: masr1979
Date Posted: November 14, 2007 at 10:25 AM
I can't recall that wire, but I'll check later on when I get a chance. Thanks.
Posted By: mrjc480
Date Posted: November 14, 2007 at 11:23 PM
Im almost positive that the door triggers arent properly connected. Arm the alarm and open a door to verify that the trigger is hooked up. I install dozens of these alarms since im not a "authorized" dealer and this is all that I have access to. The manual is really screwy, You DO need all 3 all 12v+ inputs hooked up. Also the manual list different wire colors for the 4th and 5th AUX channels.
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Im moving to MEXICO and Im not speaking spanish!
Posted By: masr1979
Date Posted: November 17, 2007 at 12:16 PM
Well I've done a bit of more reading and I'm more comfortable with what I need to do now, but I think I'll go ahead and unistall the alarm, and I'll reinstall it next weekend since I'll have enough time to do things slowly and correctly. This time around I did things with just electrical tape, knowing that's a NO-NO, so next time around I'll solder the most wires possible, leaving only the ones I'm not 100% sure of.
mrjc480 funny you should mention the door switches; there is something screwy going on with the doors, but they are working fine. Today, however, it kept tripping (the alarm) telling me that there was a door open when there wasn't one open at all. I triple checked opening and closing all 4 doors and it still wouldn't go away. I left the alarm disarmed and when I went back a few hours later and armed it PRESTO!
That said, I do know that the 2 front door switches aren't working righ. When I open the front doors I don't get the open door dash lights, no domelight, no audible signs when I have the key in the ignition or the lights are on. The back doors are working properly, so I was opening one of them to configure the alarm (I know that this is probably the cause of all my grief) I need to check all the fuses, and do some basic testing of the wiring I guess.
I'll double back with more questions in a few days, thanks again for the support guys.
Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: November 17, 2007 at 1:22 PM
A wild card, I think I've seen this problem before on an IS Lexus. Check ALL the fuses.
Posted By: masr1979
Date Posted: November 17, 2007 at 4:42 PM
Well I checked the ones under the hood; the ones under the dash I haven't yet..... DAMN annoying getting them out GRRRRR!
Posted By: masr1979
Date Posted: November 22, 2007 at 3:39 PM
Just a quick update on my case. I uninstalled the alarm today, and checked all fuses; now if the fuses under the hood are anything to go by then I might have a few fuses with the wrong amps. This being the case I also assume that I might have some deeper problems since the fuses that were wrong all had more amps, 25 where there was supposed to be a 10, so if I understand correctly that could fry whatever circuit that fuse is protecting right? As I said I have the issues with the front doors, plus the O/D light doesn't turn on in the dash, nor does the security light (the factory security system) light up (this fuse is one of the ones that's wrong), the seatbelt light turns on when I first start the car, but it turns off and taking the seatbelt off doesn't put it back on, lastly the deffoger button light doesn't turn on (the deffoger works though). Well I know all these issues are probably beyond what this thread should cover. I'm thinking about leaving the alarm off and taking the car to an electritian. Now I want to install the alarm myself and all, but this door problem seems to be beyond what I can fix myself, and until I fix that problem I fear that my other problems might not be resolved since everything else seemed to be fine with the installation. Thanks for the pointers guys, I'll post back later on to update how my situation is progressing.
Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: November 23, 2007 at 12:54 AM
Remove alarm/RS, disconnect battery , meanwhile replace the fuses with those of the correct ratings, checking for corrosion, especially on the engine bay fuses, then reconnect battery, fire up and thoroughly check out vehicle. Also check factory grounds and power supplies; these problems and I couldn't confirm without a circuit diagramme (I'm old school that way) all appear to be processor or instrument panel based. It COULD be something as simple as an instrument panel plug not making it. I know they are supposed to be fixed but........
Posted By: masr1979
Date Posted: November 23, 2007 at 11:29 AM
Alrightie then, at least it seems I'm on the right path since that's basically what I was intending on doing, except for checking the grounds. I wish I could find a diagram/schematic for the drivers side fuse panel though, any idea where I might be able to find one? I've looked on the net for a bit, but couldn't find anything.
Oh by the way hope you guys had an excellent thanksgiving :D
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