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compustar 2wss as, 2003 350z

Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Security and Convenience
Forum Discription: Car Alarms, Keyless Entries, Remote Starters, Immobilizer Bypasses, Sensors, Door Locks, Window Modules, Heated Mirrors, Heated Seats, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=98722
Printed Date: July 17, 2025 at 11:48 PM


Topic: compustar 2wss as, 2003 350z

Posted By: skn181
Subject: compustar 2wss as, 2003 350z
Date Posted: November 07, 2007 at 8:48 AM

Hello, I am in the process of installing the compustar 2WSS-AS on my 2003 350z. There are no compustar dealers around my area, so I am attempting this for the first time.  I have spent the past few days learning as much as I could online, but I have a few questions and I just want to make sure everything I am about to do is correct. Thanks!

1. For the remote start to work, does anything special have to be done? I was reading about bypassing the immobilizer and clutch switch. Does any of these things have to be done for the 350z with the Compustar 2WSS-AS alarm? If so, how would I go about doing it?

2. The engine sensing wire on the Compustar...does that connect to the Speed sensing wire on the 350z?

3. Do I have to connect the Compustar 'rearm' and 'disarm' wires to anything? or am I okay since it arms and disarms with lock and unlock?

4. Lastly, I was reading "Single pulse on the unlock wire will disarm the alarm without unlocking the doors. Unlock requires a double pulse." So how do I go about doing this?




Replies:

Posted By: KarTuneMan
Date Posted: November 07, 2007 at 10:56 AM

This is your FIRST attempt at a remote start?

There are people here that will tell you this car is "cake", there are also people her that will tell you to get some help. I am one of the "get help" guys.

The questions you are asking are "basic" questions...... protect your investment and get some help. It does not need to be a Compustar dealer.....just an installer with skill.

I am not saying you cannot complete the task at hand.....but what is your time worth? Learn on a 1990 Honda Civic, not a new 350Z





Posted By: profuse007
Date Posted: November 07, 2007 at 11:12 AM
I hope this is NOT your first alarm/RS installation. If it is, then lets break it down into two sections, alarm and remote start(RS).

1. Get yourself a diagram or tech-sheet for your vehicle. use the search button.

2. Alarm/keyless entry(KE). First thinng you want to do get right, at least. Do it and post your result.
   a. lock/unlock. dbl unlock is built-in, just change the mode. read, read and read your manual.
   b. disarm. no rearm is required.
   c. triggers(doors, trunk, hood)
   d. siren
   e. Ignition input for your programming.

2. RS can be done/explained in serveral steps:
   a. got to ouput power your IGN, ACC, and starter wires
   b. got to input power/12v to your RS unit
   c. got to give your starter a "SENSE" of reference marking for it to stop cranking, like holding your key for certain duration and let go. That reference marker can be automatic or manual. Which is better? none, theyre both are equal.
    -manual- set your own cranking duration.
    -automatic- set the cranking duration based on engine speed(RPM) to a Tachometer(tach) signal.    
   d. shut down inputs: brake and hood.
   



-------------
Houston,TX
"The two most common elements in the universe are H+ and stupidity" (Ellison).




Posted By: profuse007
Date Posted: November 07, 2007 at 11:18 AM
The above are the break down of what is involved.

The best thing is to study your diagram/tech-sheet and test all wirings b4 splicing. IMPORTANT IMPORTANT IMPORTANT

Also, note that I did NOT mention bypassing of the chipped key. The RS is already frustrating enough, so get that done first.

If you want to get it done right, do it the way I posted. Or else youll run into a whole bunch of confusion.

-------------
Houston,TX
"The two most common elements in the universe are H+ and stupidity" (Ellison).




Posted By: profuse007
Date Posted: November 07, 2007 at 11:24 AM
Try to do this alarm/KE section and post your result. It will be a lengthy process but you need to be PREPARE. The task is NOT a joke and you need to take it seriously.

12 VOLT CONSTANT        WHITE/ BLUE (+)        @ IGNITION HARNESS

IGNITION 1       BLACK/ RED (+)       @ IGNITION HARNESS

PARKING LIGHTS ( + )        RED / BLUE (+)        IN DRIVERS KICK PANEL, Harness to Rear of Vehicle.

POWER LOCK        RED (TYPE B) See NOTE *1        @ DRIVERS DOOR Module in Drivers Door, Pin 6
POWER UNLOCK       LIGHT BLUE (TYPE B) Requires Double Pulse, See NOTE *1       @ DRIVERS DOOR Module in Drivers Door, Pin 7

DOOR TRIGGER        WHITE (-) Drivers door and PINK (-) Passengers door use both and Diode isolate See DIAGRAM        @ BCM in DRIVERS KICK PANEL, Pins 62 and 12

FACTORY ALARM DISARM        DISARMS with UNLOCK, SINGAL Pulse

-------------
Houston,TX
"The two most common elements in the universe are H+ and stupidity" (Ellison).




Posted By: tedmond
Date Posted: November 07, 2007 at 12:50 PM
use a digital multimeter and probe all wires before you connect them. You do have a risk of damaging the electrical system if you wire it wrong. As mentioned before, you dont need to find a authorized compustar store to get compustar installed, just a licensed or someone that knows aout alarms/rs




Posted By: evileagletalon
Date Posted: November 07, 2007 at 6:25 PM
I think that since this is your first alarm/RS, you should really take your time, a whole weekend if possible.

Here are some suggestions:

Since you aren't dealing with the easiest car to learn on, you should get some white tape that you can learn on.

Get yourself a DMM and test all of the wires. For example, your door triggers, test them a couple times. Once you are certain that the wire is correct, wrap the correct wire with some tape and write "DOOR TRIGGER" on the tape that you wrap around the correct wire. Do that for all of your wires. When you are ready, start making your connections. The Compustar comes with both positive and negative door trigger input wires. You will not use the positive wire, so you can cut that wire about 8"-10" inches from the brain and tape it up.


Once you're all done and everything is working great, take those pieces of tape off.




Posted By: skn181
Date Posted: November 07, 2007 at 9:36 PM

Hey thanks for all the replies. I spent around 5 hours yesterday stripping the interior (dash, seats, door panels) to give me room to work, but to also familarized myself with the wiring inside the car. I am using 3 different tech sheets and the factory service manual on my laptop, which I have beside me as I am doing everything. Today, I spent most of the evening wiring the doors, e-brake, trunk, and locks. It took me a while since I checked each wire 2-3 times with the multimeter before connecting them. I am also striving for clean wiring and connections. So far it is going pretty well. I have a few questions though:

- The compustar has an 'unlock' and '2nd Pulse unlock' wires. There are 2 light-blue unlock wires in the driver's door module of the 350z. Do I randomly tap one wire into each or is there a specific order?

- In the compustar installation guide, it shows Connection 2 of the compustar module as having: (-) status output, (-) Ignition output, (-) accessory output, and  (-) starter output. However, looking at my tech sheets, the ignition, accessory,  and starter wire all are (+) polarity on the 350z. So what do I do with connection 2? Do I use it at all?

- where do I connect the 'status output' to....  is it the clutch switch?

thank you for your help





Posted By: KarTuneMan
Date Posted: November 07, 2007 at 10:57 PM

Send a (POS)+ start to the grey/red at the clutch switch. You also need to power up BOTH starter wires at the harness.

Status output is NOT used on the clutch.  I still say get some help. (in person)





Posted By: skn181
Date Posted: November 08, 2007 at 7:25 AM
- In the compustar installation guide, it shows Connection 2 of the compustar module as having: (-) status output, (-) Ignition output, (-) accessory output, and (-) starter output. However, looking at my tech sheets, the ignition, accessory, and starter wire all are (+) polarity on the 350z. So what do I do with connection 2? Do I use it at all?





Posted By: Twelvoltz
Date Posted: November 08, 2007 at 7:40 AM
skn181 wrote:

(-) status output, (-) Ignition output, (-) accessory output, and (-) starter output


- status is an output trigger which would be for activating your bypass module
- accessory, -starter and - ignition are for adding additional relays to power additional circuits if your vehicle requires them. Your 350Z needs a second starter wire energized (as KarTuneMan has stated).

This is not to knock you in any way but I am with KarTuneMan on this one I would strongly suggest having an experienced person at least take a look at this with you. There are so many sensitive electronics in your vehicle and one simple mistake could cost you thousands in repairs. Are you soldering your connections? Do you have experience soldering?

-------------
Installer, IT support, and FFL. I need less hobbies.




Posted By: profuse007
Date Posted: November 08, 2007 at 8:50 AM
You should expect for a nest on first install. Proper installation is your first priority not for looks.

I AM OUT!!!
skn181 wrote:

... I am also striving for clean wiring and connections. So far it is going pretty well. I have a few questions though:...

thank you for your help




-------------
Houston,TX
"The two most common elements in the universe are H+ and stupidity" (Ellison).




Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: November 08, 2007 at 10:46 AM
Why does reading this thread make me feel like i'm watching a train wreck that's about to happen. How much is a Nissan BCI to buy? At the top of the page just to the left of forums- it's called finding installers. Hell i sat with my 9 yr. old grandson showing him how to solder a joint, measuring it with a DMM etc  but, also good luck to our friend for at least trying, it's the CAN DO mentality of Americans that appeals to foreigners like myself.




Posted By: KarTuneMan
Date Posted: November 08, 2007 at 11:49 AM

it's the CAN DO mentality of Americans that appeals to foreigners like myself

Oh jeeze howie.....I'm feelin all warm and fuzzy inside. posted_image





Posted By: KarTuneMan
Date Posted: November 08, 2007 at 11:53 AM

PLAESE NOT ON THIS PAGE. IT IS A CHART THAT SHOWS WHERE THE CONNECTIONS FROM THE ALARM ARE MADE TO THE CAR. YOUR CAR SPECIFICALLY....

PASSIVE ANTI-THEFT BLACK (CN3) YES TRANSPONDER  SEE NOTES 
 12 VOLTS RED (CN1) WHITE/ blue Ignition switch harness  
 IGNITION GREEN (CN1) BLACK/ red Ignition switch harness  
 ACCESSORY WHITE (CN1) WHITE/ black Ignition switch harness  
 STARTER YELLOW (CN1)  WHITE/ red Ignition switch harness  
 STARTER 2 RED / BLACK (CN3) to pre-wired relay WHITE/ green Ignition switch harness  
 KEY SENSE  BLACK/ red At steering column  
 TACH SIGNAL YELLOW/BLACK (CN3) Yellow/red On coil at right side of motor  AC 
 CRANKSHAFT POSITION SENSOR  WHITE/ blue Pin-13 on ECM behind glovebox  AC 
 FUEL INJECTOR  Opposite from Red At any injector on engine  AC 
 LOCK BLUE/BLACK (CN4) Red At switch inside driver's door  
 UNLOCK BLUE (CN4) Lt.blue (double pulse) At switch inside driver's door  
 DRIVER LOCK MOTOR  Purple Pin-30 on Body Control Module  
The Body Control Module is located in the driver's side kickpanel. See the attached image for details.
 DRIVER UNLOCK MOTOR  Yellow Pin-23 on Body Control Module  
The Body Control Module is located in the driver's side kickpanel. See the attached image for details.
 PASSENGER UNLOCK MOTOR  WHITE/ red Pin-31 on Body Control Module  
The Body Control Module is located in the driver's side kickpanel. See the attached image for details.
 DOORPIN RED / WHITE (+/-) (CN3) SEE NOTES    
Driver's door is WHITE at pin-14, passenger door is PURPLE at pin-10. Both wire are found at the Body Control Module in the driver's side kickpanel.
 HOODPIN GRAY/BLACK (CN3) Lt.GREEN/ black at pinswitch under hood on right side  
 TRUNK PIN VIOLET/BLACK (CN3) RED / white Pin-18 on Body Control Module  
The Body Control Module is located in the driver's side kickpanel. See the attached image for details.
 TRUNK RELEASE VIOLET/WHITE (-) (CN4) Pink Pin-76 on Body Control Module  
The Body Control Module is located in the driver's side kickpanel. See the attached image for details.
 FACTORY ARM ORANGE (CN3) Arms with lock wire    
 FACTORY DISARM ORANGE / WHITE (CN3) Disarms with unlock wire    
 BRAKESWITCH LT.BLUE/WHITE (CN3) Pink/blue In driver's kickpanel  
 PARKLIGHTS GREEN / WHITE (+) (CN1) or (-) (CN3) RED / blue In driver's kickpanel  
 HAND BRAKE LT.BLUE (CN3) Manual only Violet In driver's kickpanel  
 HORN WHITE (-) (CN3) GREEN/ black At steering column  
 CLUTCH SWITCH Manuals only (see inst. Guide)  Gray/red & Yellow/red At switch on clutch pedal bracket  TYPE 3 
 HEADLIGHTS  YELLOW /GREEN Driver's side headlight assembly  
 REVERSE LIGHTS  Orange Under driver's side running board  
 DIMMER  RED / yellow At any illuminated switch in dash  
 VSS WIRE  Blue/black At module below radio in console  8000ppm 

WIRE FOR THE CAR                    THIS IS THE WRE ON THE cOMPUSTAR                                ACTUAL WIRE COLOR ON THE CAR                       THIS IS LOCATION                    POLARITY





Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: November 08, 2007 at 12:04 PM
Gary, don't get too warm and fuzzy just yet I was angling for a green cardposted_image




Posted By: skn181
Date Posted: November 11, 2007 at 9:08 PM
The alarm is installed and everything works great. I'm almost done the remote start and have bypassed the immobilzer and clutch. I just need confirmation on where to connect the 2nd starter wire. Does it attach to the 'Prewired 2nd Starter Relay' on connector 1? If so, how do I do the connection? Thanks for all your help!




Posted By: skn181
Date Posted: November 12, 2007 at 10:47 AM
skn181 wrote:

The alarm is installed and everything works great. I'm almost done the remote start and have bypassed the immobilzer and clutch. I just need confirmation on where to connect the 2nd starter wire. Does it attach to the 'Prewired 2nd Starter Relay' on connector 1? If so, how do I do the connection? Thanks for all your help!







Posted By: profuse007
Date Posted: November 12, 2007 at 2:19 PM
Thats NOT 2nd starter but its your starter kill.

2nd starter needs to have an additional relay.

85-2nd starter ~200mA on CN3 or so
86-12v+ fused
30-12v+ fused
87-350z 2nd starter
_____________________
Forget about immobilizer and clutch for now, just concentrate on the RS components. Do NOT go any other route bc youll confuse yourself and others when youre stuck. Doing my way will eliminate one step by one.
________________________
After RS components install:
1. learn tach
2. put in read mode, read your manual..read read read. step on clutch and put in key but do NOT turn
3. remote start
4. if sucess, go on bypass clutch and immobilizer.

-------------
Houston,TX
"The two most common elements in the universe are H+ and stupidity" (Ellison).




Posted By: skn181
Date Posted: November 13, 2007 at 7:13 PM
Where are the CAN high and CAN low wires on a 2003 350z??? It says that they are on the OBDII connector, but what color are they?? I'm tying to install an immobilizer bypass in my car... almost done the compustar installation. Just can't find these wires. Thanks!




Posted By: b-roy
Date Posted: November 13, 2007 at 7:32 PM

Are u installing an immobilizer or did u mean a bypass to get around your factory transponder?

In either event, the can wires are in pins 6 (can high) and 14 (can low). They are porbably colored blue ( pin 6 can high) and red ( pin 14 can low)





Posted By: skn181
Date Posted: November 13, 2007 at 7:35 PM
Thanks!... finally got it working right..




Posted By: skn181
Date Posted: November 14, 2007 at 12:49 AM
My 2003 350z does not have a 2nd starter wire (WHITE/ green). There are only 4 wires at the ignition harness- starter, ignition, 12v, and accessory. Is there somewhere else I should be looking or do some 2003 350z just not have this wire? thanks!




Posted By: dcman41
Date Posted: November 14, 2007 at 11:35 AM
It may be a different color, but in general i think all nissans 95+ have a second starter. Get the test light out, and check




Posted By: KarTuneMan
Date Posted: November 14, 2007 at 4:40 PM

Second start is WHITE/ green

See my post that has the tech sheet info!

And get your DMM out....you'll find it, it's there!





Posted By: skn181
Date Posted: November 15, 2007 at 4:25 PM
I think I've looked at your tech sheet at least 100x Kartuneman...Thanks lol. Anyways, no matter how hard I look I can not find the 2nd starter wire!?! It should be at the ignition harness running with the primary starter, ignition, acessory, and 12v wire right??? I must be crazy, but I only see these 4 wires and nothing else... maybe I should take a picture of it. Or am I looking at the wrong place and the wire is located somewhere else? I looked and looked, then looked again but there isn't a WHITE/ green wire, only those 4. I am puzzled...

As for an update, I have completed the entire alarm installation and it has been running flawlessly (remote start and all) for the past 3 days. It took me approx 4 days to do everything. The wiring is pretty clean and I am very happy the way everything turned out. I'll probably shortened my life span a few years from all the lead soldering fumes I've been breathing in, but its satisfying to have completed this. This was quite the learning experience, but gratefully it was also a successful one. You guys really invoked in me the fear to triple check everything, which was good. Thank you for everyone's help and contribution (except for howie II...lol)

Would I recommend beginners like me to do this install for the first time on a Z?...eh maybe not. I must admit it was very time consuming and had its ups and downs. Patience is the key. Being humble and asking questions is also a very good thing. Then again, I am a student so I have the time. I also have extensive experience with engine modification, so I'm not really afraid with messing around with cars (this was my first alarm install though). The hardest part of this installation was probably putting in the immobilizer bypass, due to the crappy instructions it came with. Anyways, thanks everyone!




Posted By: profuse007
Date Posted: November 16, 2007 at 12:17 PM
^No I would NOT recommend any of your friends to do this, most of engine modifier have no clue about electrical bc engine modification is nothing compared to electrical, if thats what youre insisting.

However, there was a guy exactly like you in ClubRSX.com that wrote up a DIY on his Type-S w/ the 1st generation 2wss-as and there were a lot of success.

Was I right about doing everything else b4 getting into clutch and immobilizer?

Since I've been on this board, close to when this board was open, I have NOT seen anyone done anything like this extensive on their first try, even me. Do NOT forget that you're lucky to have some ppl on here w/ the knowledge, time, and patience.

-------------
Houston,TX
"The two most common elements in the universe are H+ and stupidity" (Ellison).





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