keyless entry, 2001 integra
Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Security and Convenience
Forum Discription: Car Alarms, Keyless Entries, Remote Starters, Immobilizer Bypasses, Sensors, Door Locks, Window Modules, Heated Mirrors, Heated Seats, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=99123
Printed Date: August 23, 2025 at 4:07 PM
Topic: keyless entry, 2001 integra
Posted By: chednompton
Subject: keyless entry, 2001 integra
Date Posted: November 18, 2007 at 12:27 PM
I have a 2001 Acura Integra, and just got done trying to install my Hornet 564T Alarm System. Problem is, everything works except my keyless entry (didn't install the remote start, probably won't). I have power locks in the car, and they lock/unlock fine. Also when i ground the lock wires it locks, also when I plug the harness (harness is connected to the unlock/lock wires) into the brain. But when I use my remote to try and lock/unlock the doors, it doesn't work, it arms the alarm and everything, but just won't lock or unlock my doors. Anyone have any ideas?
Replies:
Posted By: Twelvoltz
Date Posted: November 18, 2007 at 3:32 PM
Test the outputs from the brain of the alarm, the green should supply a ground pulse on lock and the blue on unlock. If you can tap the wires in the vehicle to ground and the doors lock and unlock then I would have to think you are on the correct vehicle wires.
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Installer, IT support, and FFL. I need less hobbies.
Posted By: chednompton
Date Posted: November 18, 2007 at 3:48 PM
Just tested, its always showing 12.5 on blue, when I unlock/lock it goes to 12.1 or so. The green is always showing 7.1, than when I unlock/lock it goes to 7... I'm guessing this is just current draw with the battery, but does that sound like a bad brain?
Posted By: Twelvoltz
Date Posted: November 18, 2007 at 4:03 PM
Those outputs should be showing negative, not just a voltage drop. It is possibly a bad brain but that is rare with the DEI products, unless you shorted something during installation. Try using the factory alarm disarm and arm wires to activate the door locks. If this works then you will have to also hook up the negative starter output to the lock wire in the vehicle, for remote starting. If you do not use the remote start portion this would not be necessary, but if you decide to use it the doors will unlock when the remote start is activated and the starter output would re-lock the doors when it starts to crank. You will need to diode isolate the connections as well to prevent feedback.
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Installer, IT support, and FFL. I need less hobbies.
Posted By: chednompton
Date Posted: November 18, 2007 at 6:55 PM
The rearm/disarm thing somewhat works, when I press unlock, it locks the car, and when I press lock, it does nothing.... I just noticed that one my passenger door, the OEM lock works, but it doesn't unlock, could this be part of the problem? Thank you for being so helpfpul.
Posted By: Twelvoltz
Date Posted: November 18, 2007 at 7:40 PM
If you can tap the vehicle wires to ground and the doors lock and unlock then the passenger switch is not affecting the system.
If the doors are unlocking when you press lock you have the incorrect wires coming from the 564T. Use the factory alarm arm wire for lock and the factory alarm disarm wire for unlock.
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Installer, IT support, and FFL. I need less hobbies.
Posted By: chednompton
Date Posted: November 18, 2007 at 10:10 PM
Do I need to put those Diode Isolate after the Factory arm/disarm wires?
Posted By: chednompton
Date Posted: November 18, 2007 at 10:58 PM
To add on, I changed the wires to Disarm is unlock (works) and arm to lock (doesn't work). I can still lock the doors by tapping the "lock" wire on the chassis.
Posted By: moonliter
Date Posted: November 18, 2007 at 11:48 PM
Where and what color are the lock & unlock wires you tapped into ?
Posted By: chednompton
Date Posted: November 18, 2007 at 11:53 PM
BLACK/ red(unlock) and BLACK/ white(lock)
Posted By: moonliter
Date Posted: November 19, 2007 at 6:27 PM
I never like this kind of transistorised outputs. The outputs changed polarites (reverse polarity) if you want to call it. They can cause problems on some of the oem doorlocks system. To check if they are still functional, I would use a relay pin 85 to constant +12v, pin 86 to green (-), press lock button, it should click. Connect pin 86 to blue (-) to check the unlock function. If they work this way, then the rest is easy. 
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