Printer Friendly Forum Posts - cm4200, 94 taurus door trigger

i have a 94 taurus wagon (auto) and i got all the big remote start wires hooked up but im having trouble with the safty feature bits.

plug 3 has all the safety switch bits on it, when i don't have it plugged in the car will start but the starter stays on to long.

i connected the door trigger (+) to what i am 99% sure is the correct wire (it 'generates' 12 volt when the door is open and 0 volt when door is closed) however when i try to start it blinks at me indicating my door is open, when it is not, i have tried connecting the (-) door open input but that didn't help either.

what do i need to do?

will the car start if you just disconnect the door pin wire?

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The search function is your friend.

no it won't; if i have the 3rd connector plugged in even with nothing connected to the door sensor it wont start and gives the door open warning. on the same 3rd connector i have the alt sense wire and the horn relay, whenever this connector is unplugged it will start but as i said the starter stays on to long.

Did you cut the jumper to indicate to the brain that it is an automatic tranny?

The CN3 connector does not have the horn output wire .. are you confusing this with the hood wire?

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The search function is your friend.

no you are right, i was just trying to remebr off the top of my head, the horn is the white wire on one of the other connectors, and yes i did cut the wire, and i took the jumper thing out completely. and switched both dip switches off.

as an added note this is the first time i have ever done something like this, and it is turning out to be more of a challenge than i was initially expecting. i have not yet got anythign else to work, but am in the midst of playing with relays. (i don't know where to find them in toronto :( or at least the right one)

So apparently your getting an error code. Explain again what error code you see. Your door trigger shouldn't be a problem in order to start the vehicle unless its a manual transmission. But you stated that it's an auto. So whats the error code. You will see three flashes first and then count. word

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"dont ground out!"

ok, well i didn't exactly read the manual i only looked at the pictures, so now it turns out that me real problem is that the unit thinks the engine is on when it isn't, it flashes once. i measured the tan / YELLOW one (this is the wire everythign says should work) and i get 12 volts out of it when the key is on, i do get 14 when the car starts but the unit thinks the car is on if the initial voltage i over 12, should i jsut use resistors or something to drop it down a bit?

for auto tranny, you dont need door trigger wire hooked up. On cn3 ... all you need is hood pin, brake and alt/tach inputs. Obviously you had your rs set up for alt sensing. you are right it wouldn't allow it to start b/c it thought the car was already running. For the alt sensing you need to find a wire that only read 1 to 6 volt when the ign sw was turned on. when the car is started it should read 9 to 14 volts. If you can't locate this wire, it is better to set the rs for tach sensing, which requires you to reconnect the yellow/black wire on cn3 -9 to the dk.GREEN/ YELLOW wire at the ignition coil. Also you have to change the dip sw 1 to ON. Remember to do a tach learn if you use the tach wire, start the car while it is running, press the small button on the side of the brain, parklight should flash once the tach is learned.

thank you moonlighter, i have gotten it working 'properly'

however, i have never used one of these things before and their are a few things striking me as odd, first is that once it starts, the running/parking lights flash 2 times and then turn on indefinatly, i can not shut them off and usually do not have them on during the day (ie the manual switch i never use) also is the only way to shut the car off with the remote again? becasue when i then put the key and turn it on and then turn it off again the car stays on. ma

when i start the car normally with the key i have control over not turning on my running lights aswell as being able to shut it off normally, maybe the above mentioned is normal im just not used to it.

Parklights stayed on after car is started, which is very normal. That is the visual confirmation that the car is running.

After you put the key in, did you press the brake ? Which supposed to cancel the remote starter and let the car takes over. If you take the key out then the car should stop. Brake input (+) is absolutely required to be hookep up.

noo, in my little tests i did not hit the brake because i didn't really know what was going on, i just tried that and i got controll of my car back, so i suppose it all works well, thanks again.

however the remote start was just sort of a bonus to the remote entry i really wanted that i cannot get to work. my realays won't flip and i've now gone through 2 different kinds, the one i have now that i thought would of been bomproof is this one: https://www.partsexpress.com/pe/pshowdetl.cfm?Partnumber=330-070 except it's the actual bosch version.

i have tried it on the horn output both lock/unlock and trunk release outputs, i hooked up the 2 feet that are suposed to controll the coil (one wire the (-) 200ma trigger and the other (+)12V) i even flipped them around incase it had a diode in it. i also had my voltmeter on continuity hooked up to 30 and 87a so i could tell if it flipped if for soem reason it didn't go click. so grrrr i dunno what to do now, i woudl rather like to complete the whole installation myself.

Is your taurus a 2 doors or 4 doors ? how many power lock switches does it have ? this will help me to figure out what you need.

it is a wagon, so 4 doors have power lock, but only driver and passenger have switches. and the tailgate of course is on its own thing. how does this solve the mystery of my relays themselves not doing anything? or are you getting to that?

thanks again for all your help, the remote start works 100% so far i can tell, all the safty bits do their job to.

For your doorlocks to work, use following diagram, connect the blue wire on cn4 to pin 86 of the left relay, blue/black wire on cn4 to pin 85 of the right relay. Connected red lined of the diagram to a fused 12v+.

At driver kick panel, find the unlock wire (pink/lt.green) tested (12v+) when you press the unlock button on the door. Lock wire (pink / YELLOW) tested (12v+) when you press the lock button on the door.

Clip these 2 wires and retest again with your dmm with red lead on unlock wire and the black lead on lock wire. The tests should show (+12v) when unlock button is pressed and (-12v) when lock button is pressed. When you confirm the test then these are your unlock and lock wires for the switch side.

Connect the switch side unlock wire to 87a of the left relay and the car side of the unlock wire to 30 of same relay. Connect the switch side lock wire to 87a of the right relay and the car side of the lock wire to 30 of right relay.

posted_image

hmmm, ok i will hold on to this good thing too casue i would of wired it all wrong, my problem is though that off the trigger lines of the brain i can't get a relay to flip, like they go *click* when you run the power through them, i even took one apart to understand 100% how it works and so i could watch it. i only have 1 of the good bosch ones so i would like to get that to work before i get more (they were $12 each!) so i was trying it on my horn last night and it wouldn't flip, here's how i wired it:

posted_image

the only way i can get it to click is if i use the 12 V and ground the other side (pic on right)

I couldn't understand why it was connected that way ( left diagram ). your horn is neg trigger yellow/lt.green @ steering column harness. just connect the white wire @ cn2 - 7 to the yellow/lt.green horn wire. To test the horn, press & hold lock button for 3.5 seconds. or press lock button for 1/2 sec. Check remote button functions 8, make sure horn function is turned on. Also cn2 harness is firmly plugged in.

hmmmm, again i screwed up, i thought i had tried that earlier and go nothing so i was trying relays, but now i have direct connected it again and now my horn works.

anyway i think i am about to get out the problem i've been trying to get out through my other questions that were wrong. here is my picture:
posted_image

so when i use power and ground (left) i get 0.14A showing on my meter (in the 10A unfused position) and the switch flips, however when i try to use one of the negative triggers from the brain i get the picture on the right. nothing happens and no switch flipping occurs. i have tried the door lock, unlock and trunk triggers. i have also tried putting the meter on the trigger side of the relay and get the same reading.

tomorrow i will get another of the good bosch relays and wire up the door lock picture posted.

i am just puzzled as to why i can't get the things to flip by themselves.

If you already tried connecting the lock, unlock or truck neg output on cn4 to pin 85 of the bosch relay and (+12v) to pin 86. when you press respective button and relay wouldn't pull in. It is almost safe to say that the neg outputs on the brain were fried.