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beginners first rs 2003 accord

Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Security and Convenience
Forum Discription: Car Alarms, Keyless Entries, Remote Starters, Immobilizer Bypasses, Sensors, Door Locks, Window Modules, Heated Mirrors, Heated Seats, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=99366
Printed Date: May 17, 2024 at 3:25 PM


Topic: beginners first rs 2003 accord

Posted By: fiveohh
Subject: beginners first rs 2003 accord
Date Posted: November 26, 2007 at 11:08 AM

I've installed plenty of stereos and would consider my self pretty good at electronics, but I've never installed a remote starter and curious how much work is involved.  I've decided on a compustar 2w900fmr and have been digging around for a bit and found  the idatalink ADS-DLSL HA for a bypass kit. 

I'm hoping I can get some input on how much more work is entailed for the install.  The main thing I want out of the deal is 2way to tell me that the car is started and remote start. 

Thanks




Replies:

Posted By: peterubers
Date Posted: November 26, 2007 at 12:37 PM

Read this link:

https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=92195&KW=PeterUbers



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The search function is your friend.




Posted By: KarTuneMan
Date Posted: November 26, 2007 at 1:22 PM
PASSIVE ANTI-THEFT  YES TRANSPONDER  SEE NOTES 
 12 VOLTS RED (CN1) White Ignition switch harness  
 IGNITION GREEN (CN2) BLACK / YELLOW Ignition switch harness  
 ACCESSORY  BLACK/ red Ignition switch harness  
 STARTER PURPLE (CN2) + Relay for cut BLACK/ white Ignition switch harness  
 KEY SENSE  RED / white Ignition switch harness  
 TACH SIGNAL  SEE NOTES    
Locate the PCM at the front floor of the center console. Remove the plastic cover on the passenger side to expose the connectors. On the 4 cylinder use Blue/red at pin 25 of the white plug. On the V6 use Blue at at pin 23 of the gray plug.
 FUEL INJECTOR  Opposite of BLACK / YELLOW At any injector on engine  AC 
 LOCK BLUE/BLACK (CN4) Pink/black In green plug on left side of fusepanel  
These wires are mastered from the passenger side switch, test wires using that switch.
 UNLOCK BLUE (CN4) Pink/blue In green plug on left side of fusepanel  
These wires are mastered from the passenger side switch, test wires using that switch.
 DOORPIN RED / WHITE(-) or RED(+) (CN3) GREEN/ red In green connector behind fusepanel  
 HOODPIN GRAY/BLACK (CN3) Yellow/red At hoodlatch in engine compartment  
 TRUNK PIN VIOLET/BLACK (CN3) Blue/black In driver's kickpanel (harness to rear)  
 TRUNK RELEASE VIOLET/WHITE (-) (CN4) YELLOW /GREEN In driver's kickpanel (harness to rear)  
 FACTORY ARM Tie to Lock wire (diode isolate) WHITE/ red At driver's door controller  
This module is part of the switch assembly inside the driver's door. You must run 2 wires through the door jamb boot.
 FACTORY DISARM Tie to Unlock wire (diode isolate) White At driver's door controller  
This module is part of the switch assembly inside the driver's door. You must run 2 wires through the door jamb boot.
 BRAKESWITCH  WHITE/ black At switch above brake pedal  
 PARKLIGHTS GREEN / WHITE (+) (CN1) or (-) (CN2) RED / black White plug at top of fusebox or DKP  
 HORN N/A GREEN/ YELLOW At steering column  
 VSS WIRE  Blue/white top of transmission  AC 
 TRANSPONDER IGNITION  BLACK / YELLOW At 7-pin plug on Ignition switch assembly  
 TRANSPONDER DATA 1  RED / blue Pin-2 at 7-Pin connector  DATA 
 TRANSPONDER GROUND  BROWN / yellow Pin-1 at 7-Pin connector  


posted_image Available Notes
Vehicle Notes 
PLEASE NOTE: This vehicle is equipped with a TRANPONDER passive anti-theft system. Please refer to the appropriate security diagram before any remote start installation.
Additional Notes 
Drivers doorpin-dark green, passenger doorpin-lt GREEN/ red, rear drivers-dk GREEN/ YELLOW, rear passenger-dk GREEN / WHITE (Drivers kick panel)




Posted By: fiveohh
Date Posted: November 26, 2007 at 9:19 PM
Thanks for the info. My main question is: If I get that module, I shouldn't have to tap into any other wires(besides the ones to hook the module up)to get remote start and lock/unlock (along with the status of them for 2-way).

Thanks again, your advice is appreciated!




Posted By: peterubers
Date Posted: November 27, 2007 at 2:28 PM

The module is a dream come true .. I installed a r/s in an Acura TL in under 2 hours thanks to the CAN-SL and Honda-SL2 modules .. and less than two hours with soldering and taping off every connection including running a tach into the engine bay is GOOD for me (I know others out there can do it faster).  I saved most of my time thanks to not having to pry the door trim off to access the doorlocks, and hunt for trunk wires and door/trunk pins ..



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The search function is your friend.




Posted By: fiveohh
Date Posted: December 03, 2007 at 11:13 PM
Just received my 2w900fmr, had to ebay it since I live in rural MN and no retailers near here. I'm still waiting on my idatalink module, but have a few preliminary questions about this wiring. Where does the module get its power from? The diagrams show it having an output for power/ground to the RS brain, but it only has inputs of data, ignition, doorlock info, and security led in/out. Is their a separate power input not listed on the diagrams, or does it pull its power off one of the inputs I listed?

Thanks in advance, hopefully I'll have the module by this weekend, and will be able to start the install before temps stay sub zero:P




Posted By: fiveohh
Date Posted: December 04, 2007 at 12:05 AM
Think I looked at that wrong. Looks like the module gets its power tapped off the brains power, I think...   I'm also curious why the module needs the security led i/o's. I think I'll hold any further questions till I get the actual module:D

Thanks




Posted By: fiveohh
Date Posted: December 06, 2007 at 6:46 PM
K, got the module and planning on starting this tomorrow, working through the wiring I'm wondering where I should both the two +12v for the CM4200 brain. Can I pull them both off the ignition harness? or is there a better idea?

I also see that the idatalink module has a starter input. I'm planning on wiring the brain straight off the ignition harness, so I have the anti-grind working anyway, but just curious if theres an advantage to using the idatalinks starter input.

Again, thanks in advance. I'm planning on getting some photos of the entire install for a tutorial for another forum(I'll post the link here as well). So hopefully this can help some others in the future.




Posted By: peterubers
Date Posted: December 06, 2007 at 9:08 PM
You can tie in both of the CM4200's power wires to the ignition harness of the vehicle.

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The search function is your friend.




Posted By: marinekilz
Date Posted: December 07, 2007 at 12:47 PM
OK I am looking at doing a exact same project on a 03 accord ex v6. How did that mod and bypass work for you?? And any hints or thing you ran into would be helpfully too




Posted By: marinekilz
Date Posted: December 07, 2007 at 1:01 PM
does that bypass need you to keep a key in the case for the transponder to work?




Posted By: fiveohh
Date Posted: December 07, 2007 at 4:32 PM
No it doesn't need a key

I'm just starting this install and have a quick question, can I pull the 12volts of the small white ignition harness? Otherwise there is a larger brown harness that has a larger wire with 12v constant. guess I'm just wondering which harness is considered the ignition harness the one with 7 smaller gauge wires, or the one with 5 larger wires.
Thanks




Posted By: fiveohh
Date Posted: December 07, 2007 at 7:15 PM
K i got the brain hooked up and the bypass aas well, the car starts, but I can't find the tach wire. The module is supposed to have one, but that doesn't seem to be working(dmm is giving me nothing and the brain says no signal. I've looked at the gray connector off the pcn, but there is no pin 23, that spot is blank. any ideas?




Posted By: tedmond
Date Posted: December 07, 2007 at 7:48 PM

go straight to injector - BLUE or go to

ECM - white connector BLUE/RED pin 25. The connector is a 31 pin plug that is located @ the centre consol





Posted By: fiveohh
Date Posted: December 07, 2007 at 8:19 PM
tedmond wrote:

go straight to injector - BLUE or go to

ECM - white connector BLUE/RED pin 25. The connector is a 31 pin plug that is located @ the centre consol




The info i found has that connection for a 4cylinder, mine is a 6, and it says gray plug pin 23 blue, but theres a pin 22, and a 24, but no 23. I'm hoping to avoid going through the firewall. I'm gonna keep digging around, but This module seems to be busted for the interface portion, the bypass works, but none of the other features do:(




Posted By: fiveohh
Date Posted: December 07, 2007 at 9:19 PM
it's pin 30 RED / blue on my v6 coupe ex navi. Just need to get the locks working and i'll be gtg!:D I have pics and will get a walkthrough posted when I finish:D




Posted By: fiveohh
Date Posted: December 07, 2007 at 9:24 PM
fiveohh wrote:

it's pin 30 RED / blue on my v6 coupe ex navi. Just need to get the locks working and i'll be gtg!:D I have pics and will get a walkthrough posted when I finish:D


oops, its blue/red




Posted By: strangelaw911
Date Posted: December 13, 2007 at 11:46 PM

peterubers wrote:

The module is a dream come true .. I installed a r/s in an Acura TL in under 2 hours thanks to the CAN-SL and Honda-SL2 modules .. and less than two hours with soldering and taping off every connection including running a tach into the engine bay is GOOD for me (I know others out there can do it faster).  I saved most of my time thanks to not having to pry the door trim off to access the doorlocks, and hunt for trunk wires and door/trunk pins ..

I have a viper 791xv and deciding to buy honda-sl-can for my 05 accord ex v6 navi. Here's the link

https://bypasskits.fortinautoradio.com/en/products/all_products/honda-sl-can/

Here are some of the question I would like to ask before I have my hands to install them.

1.  From the vehicle diagram data that I obtained from here, it said, I need to route 4 wires into my door panel to connect to factory disarm and factory arm wires.  But, peterubers didn't really do that by prying the door trim off to access the door locks/module. How can i do that too?

2. If you download the instruction manual from the link, I don't see any wires in there are instructed to connect to the factory disarm and factory arm wires. Would anyone kindly please explain for me?

3. On page 3 of the instruction manual (right bottom), Am I connect as data link or without data link?

4. On page 3 of the instruction manual (right bottom), the starter/alarm is that refer to my viper791xv?

5. On page 6 of the instruction manual (bottom)-(can module type 1),  what is the difference between "data link 1 way" and "data link  2 way"? which one i need to follow to?

Please help me out.

Thank you for your assistance.

Sam. 






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