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viper 5900 remote start problem

Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Security and Convenience
Forum Discription: Car Alarms, Keyless Entries, Remote Starters, Immobilizer Bypasses, Sensors, Door Locks, Window Modules, Heated Mirrors, Heated Seats, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=99433
Printed Date: May 19, 2024 at 12:18 AM


Topic: viper 5900 remote start problem

Posted By: adroc3905
Subject: viper 5900 remote start problem
Date Posted: November 28, 2007 at 10:10 AM

Hi, having issues w/ a Viper 5900 remote start in my 2004 Grand Prix. The alarm, triggers, sensors, lights, etc, all work fine. The problem is the RS sequence. When I RS the vehicle the ignition & accessory come on but no power is sent to the starter wire, hence no crank. I know this b/c I tested the module starter wire while triggering the sequence. I know the wire is relay driven and it appears the relay is working properly. Does the module power the starter wire? I read in a previous post that the starter wire (pruple) is not need.

Can my bypass be stopping current from my alarm module?? I have a common ground for everything including the park/neutral as indictaed by DEI. My bypass module is a PKU-GM that I assume is correctly connected. I programed it as stated in the instructions and I can hear the relay turn on that powers it.

I did not hookup the starter disable so the starter wire was not cut leaving a key side and starter side. I only have the modules starter side wire connected. I spliced into the starter at the BCM, is this ok or should I try somewhere else?

I checked the obvious, fuses, connections, relays, good ground and power supply. I thought it may be one of the modules wires that need to see ground (like a park/neutral switch) or GWR wire triggering the bypass relay but those were checked and double checked and all seem to be working fine.

 

Any ideas would be appreciated seeing as my car looks like someone stole it and tore half the dash off currently. I refuse to reassemble and admit failure.




Replies:

Posted By: adroc3905
Date Posted: November 28, 2007 at 10:23 AM

Apperenly this forum does not like MS word. Here is an easier to read format. Same as above.

Hi, having issues w/ a Viper 5900 remote start in my 2004 Grand Prix. The alarm, triggers, sensors, lights, etc, all work fine. The problem is the RS sequence. When I RS the vehicle the ignition & accessory come on but no power is sent to the starter wire, hence no crank. I know this b/c I tested the module starter wire while triggering the sequence. I know the wire is is working properly. Does the bypass module power the starter wire? I read in a previous post that the starter wire (purple) is not needed. Can my bypass be stopping current from my alarm module?? I have a common ground for everything including the park/neutral. My bypass module is a PKU-GM that I assume is correctly connected. I programed it as stated in the instructions and I can hear the relay turn on that powers it. I did not hookup the starter disable so the starter wire was not cut leaving a key side and starter side. I only have the modules starter side wire connected. I spliced into the starter at the BCM, is this ok or should I try somewhere else? I checked the obvious, fuses, connections, relays, good ground and power supply. I thought it may be one of the modules wires that need to see ground (like a park/neutral switch) or GWR wire triggering the bypass but those were checked and double checked and all seem to be working fine.Any ideas would be appreciated seeing as my car looks like someone stole it and tore half the dash off currently. I refuse to reassemble and admit failure.

Thanks





Posted By: kronik66
Date Posted: November 28, 2007 at 12:18 PM

neutral safety needs to see ground or ground when in park.

You need to cut the starter wire and hook up the start kill. the unit sends power to the crank through these wires. check the install guide to be sure which direction the wires go. if i remember right the purple goues towards the starter and the green goes towards the key.



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";P




Posted By: adroc3905
Date Posted: November 28, 2007 at 2:58 PM

Ok but regardless of whether or not the starter wire is cut or the key side wire is used (green) in conjunction w/ the starter side (purple) I should still see the 5900 module spitting out a voltage on either the green or purple wires. I have nothing. They test dead when the RS sequence occurs. It's almost like the module does not want to send power to the starter.
Its just weird b/c other wires in the harness (acc & ign) work fine. I also tried inserting the key into the ignition rather than relying on my bypass to override the immobilizer and I got the same results. Ign and acc on and no crank.





Posted By: enice
Date Posted: November 28, 2007 at 5:52 PM
If you do not want to use the starter kill thats built in the relay pack then you must connect the PURPLE wire to the starter wire of the car. If you connect the green it will not do anything.  Also, make sure both red wires and the RED / white wire from the relay pack get constant 12v.




Posted By: adroc3905
Date Posted: November 28, 2007 at 10:00 PM

My purple is hooked up. I didn't hook up the green (key side) b/c I didn't want the starter kill feature nor did I cut my BCM starter wire. There is really not point considering my car has an immobilizer. It would be overkill.
I have 2 red 12v wires from the back of the fuse box connected to my 3 Viper heavy gauge power wires. I don't think my problem lies within these wires or derives from a power loss issue. I think I have a relay issue or a ground sensing issue.

All my wires have one common ground. I am not sure if this is ok or not.





Posted By: techman93
Date Posted: November 28, 2007 at 10:10 PM
Battery     RED (+)     AT VEHICLE FUSEBOX UNDER PASSENGER SIDE OF DASH     
Ignition 1     PINK     (+)          IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS     
Ignition 2     WHITE     (+)          IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS     
Accessory 1     BROWN     (+)          IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS     
Starter 1     YELLOW     (+)          IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS     
Anti-Theft Type          GM PASSKEY III® VEHICLE IMMOBILIZER     
Anti-Theft Descript     THE KEY SENDS AN RF SIGNAL TO THE BCM MODULE THROUGH AN ANTENNA LOCATED AROUND THE IGNITION CYLINDER     
Key Sense     LIGHT GREEN     (-)     IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS     
Tachometer     WHITE          (AC)     AT IGNITION CONTROL MODULE ON DRIVERS SIDE OF ENGINE     
Speed Sense     DARK GREEN     (AC)     AT THROTTLE ACTUATOR MODULE ON TOP OF ENGINE     
Parking Lights     BROWN          (+)     AT VEHICLE FUSEBOX UNDER PASSENGER SIDE OF DASH     
Brake Lights     WHITE          (+)     AT BCM BEHIND DRIVERS SIDE OF DASH TO LEFT OF STEERING COLUMN     
               PIN #30 - THIS WIRE WILL ONLY TEST CORRECTLY WITH THE IGNITION IN THE RUN POSITION.     
Reverse Lights     LIGHT GREEN     (+)     AT BCM BEHIND DRIVERS SIDE OF DASH TO LEFT OF STEERING COLUMN     
               PIN #42     
Horn          BROWN          (-)     AT BCM BEHIND DRIVERS SIDE OF DASH TO LEFT OF STEERING COLUMN     
               PIN #9     
Anti Theft RX     WHITE          (+)     AT PASSKEY SENSOR IN IGNITION COLUMN     
          THIS IS THE LOW VOLTAGE REFERENCE WIRE.     
Anti Theft TX     BLACK          (-)     AT PASSKEY SENSOR IN IGNITION COLUMN     
          THIS IS THE GROUND SIGNAL SENT TO THE BCM MODULE TO ENABLE THE START SEQUENCE.

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The wire I'm test'n isn't doin' what it's supposed to be doin'... I am so glad I printed that tech sheet, with the wrong info.
Do it right the first time... or I might have to fix it for ya




Posted By: adroc3905
Date Posted: November 28, 2007 at 10:38 PM

Ok, now I am dazed and confused. I have been using the wire chart below. It shows nothing of a 2nd ign wire. Do I need the speed sense wire? What is the anti-theft RX & TX. Are those needed to be hooked up to something. Is that chart above for a 2004 Grand Prix?

12volts      red (50A), red (40A) + back of fuse box, passenger dash
Starter      yellow + ign harn or BCM, conn. C1, pin 21
Notes: The BCM (Body Control Module) is below the driver side dash to the left of the steering column.
Second Starter      N/A            
Ignition pink       + ign harn or BCM, conn. C1, pin 22
Notes: The BCM (Body Control Module) is below the driver side dash to the left of the steering column.

There are two pink wires in the BCM plug that meter as ignition. To verify that the correct wire is being energized for remote start, slide the key in the ignition key cylinder and then activate remote start. If the key in ignition warning chime comes on, then the correct wire is being energized.
Second Ignition      N/A            
Third Ignition      N/A            
Accessory brown + ign harn or BCM, conn. C1, pin 23
Notes: The BCM (Body Control Module) is below the driver side dash to the left of the steering column.
Second Accessory      N/A            
Keysense lt. green - ign harn or BCM, conn. C1, pin 40
Notes: The BCM (Body Control Module) is below the driver side dash to the left of the steering column.

If the service security lights comes on during remote start or after key takeover, see DirectFax document 1502.
Power Lock RED / black -       BCM, conn. C2, pin 2
Notes: The BCM (Body Control Module) is below the driver side dash to the left of the steering column.
Power Unlock ORANGE / black - BCM, conn. C2, pin 11
Notes: The BCM (Body Control Module) is below the driver side dash to the left of the steering column.
Lock Motor      gray       5wi      BCM, conn. C2, pin 52
Notes: The BCM (Body Control Module) is below the driver side dash to the left of the steering column.
Unlock Motor      tan       5wi      BCM, conn. C2, pin 46
Notes: The BCM (Body Control Module) is below the driver side dash to the left of the steering column.
Parking Lights+      brown       +       front of fuse box, passenger dash
Parking Lights-      BROWN / white       -       BCM, 18 pin plug, pin 8
Notes: The BCM (Body Control Module) is below the driver side dash to the left of the steering column.
Hazards      tan       -       BCM, 18 pin plug, pin 16
Notes: The BCM (Body Control Module) is below the driver side dash to the left of the steering column.
Turn Signal(L)      use hazards wire            
Turn Signal(R)      use hazards wire            
Reverse Light      lt. green       +       BCM, conn. C2, pin 42
Notes: The BCM (Body Control Module) is below the driver side dash to the left of the steering column.
Door Trigger      see notes       -       BCM, conn. C2
Notes: The driver door trigger is gray/black in pin 26, the front passenger door is BLACK/ white in pin 17, the left rear door is lt. blue/black in pin 7, and the right rear door is lt. GREEN/ black in pin 5. Use all four wires and diode isolate each.

The BCM (Body Control Module) is below the driver side dash to the left of the steering column.
Dome Supervision      gray/black       +       BCM, conn. C1, pin 43
Notes: The BCM (Body Control Module) is below the driver side dash to the left of the steering column.
Trunk/Hatch Pin      RED / black       -       BCM, conn. C2, pin 3
Notes: The BCM (Body Control Module) is below the driver side dash to the left of the steering column.
Hood Pin      N/A            
Trunk/Hatch Release      lt. blue       +       BCM, conn. C2, pin 45
Notes: The BCM (Body Control Module) is below the driver side dash to the left of the steering column.
Power Sliding Door      N/A            
Factory Alarm Arm      lt. green       -       BCM, conn. C2, pin 22
Notes: The BCM (Body Control Module) is below the driver side dash to the left of the steering column.
Factory Alarm Disarm      purple       -       BCM, conn. C2, pin 24
Notes: The BCM (Body Control Module) is below the driver side dash to the left of the steering column.
Disarm No Unlock      see factory alarm disarm            
Tachometer      white       ac       ignition control module, pin E
Notes: The ignition control module is on top of the engine towards the passenger side.
Wait to start      N/A            
Brake Wire      white       +       BCM, conn. C2, pin 30
Notes: The BCM (Body Control Module) is below the driver side dash to the left of the steering column.
Parking Brake      ORANGE / black       -       BCM, conn. C2, pin 9
Notes: The BCM (Body Control Module) is below the driver side dash to the left of the steering column.
Horn Trigger      black       -       BCM, conn. C1, pin 4
Notes: The BCM (Body Control Module) is below the driver side dash to the left of the steering column.
Memory Seat 1      N/A            
Memory Seat 2      N/A            
Memory Seat 3      N/A            
Interface Module:      Category:
Immobilizer Bypass      Required:
Yes      Type:
PASS-Key III
Part #: 556UW
Alternate Part1 #: DesignTech 20402
Alternate Part2 #: DesignTech 29402





Posted By: adroc3905
Date Posted: November 28, 2007 at 10:59 PM
I am pretty sure the wire diagram I have is correct. A 2004 does NOT have a 2nd ign wire. The 2003 and older do.




Posted By: Twelvoltz
Date Posted: November 29, 2007 at 8:13 AM
OK, step back a second and regroup...

Did you hook up all 3 reds and RED / whites? The DEI manual says the RED / white is optional but it is not.   They have not updated their manuals since redesigning the XCRS.

You stated that the remote start is not providing +12V on the heavy purple wire when it should be cranking the starter. You also stated that it does provide +12V to the ignition and accessory wires. Take a look at the ribbon cable running to the XCRS. The small purple wire in there is a negative wire that turns on the relay that powers the heavy purple output. Test this wire to see if it is providing ground when it should be cranking the starter. If it is not make sure your ribbon harness is firmly connected on both ends.

The small harness coming from the XCRS has a purple wire in it as well, this is also a low current negative output that would be used for a second starter output if the vehicle needed one. If you provide a ground to that small purple wire it will activate the relay powering the starter circuit.

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Installer, IT support, and FFL. I need less hobbies.




Posted By: adroc3905
Date Posted: November 29, 2007 at 9:21 AM

I hooked up 4 wires total from the Viper module. 2 heavy gauge red wires, 1 heavy gauge RED / white all coming from the XCRS and then a smaller red (15A fuse) from the 12 pin Viper harness.

I tested the purple while doing the RS sequence and it appeared to be triggering a ground which I assumed activated a relay in the XCRS and then powered the purple starter wire. I will check to make sure the harness in connected properly but the purple wire is in the middle of the ribbon harness and chances are if it was not connected securely then my ign and acc would also not be working.

This smaller harness that plugs into the XCRS, can I direct ground it just for testing?

Also, something has been bothering me, does my H1/10 WHITE/ blue wire (- activation input) wire get grounded. The manual states it needs to see 2 consecutive ground pulses for the RS to activate. Does that mean I just ground it?





Posted By: Twelvoltz
Date Posted: November 29, 2007 at 10:20 AM
adroc3905 wrote:

This smaller harness that plugs into the XCRS, can I direct ground it just for testing?
Grounding that wire will indeed power the purple starter output, yes you can use it for testing. Activate the RS, try touching the wire to ground, your starter will crank over if it is working properly. I would suggest leaving the key ring for the bypass disconnected for now and leave a key in the cylinder in the off position to eliminate the bypass as being your problem.

The WHITE/ blue activation input is not a mandatory connection, it is there in case you wanted to trigger the remote start portion of your 5900 from an outside source. Just insulate it and leave it disconnected.

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Installer, IT support, and FFL. I need less hobbies.




Posted By: adroc3905
Date Posted: November 29, 2007 at 10:54 AM

Would keeping the WHITE/ blue grounded be my problem? I thought this wire was necessary for the RS to even operate. I guess I read it wrong. I have done a couple DEI alarms (Clifford) in the past but never on a car w/ PK3 immobilizer so I am learning as I go w/ this car and alarm.
Is it safe to assume I have the correct ign and acc wire if they power on during the RS activation? I read in my wiring diagram that I got from this site; the car has 2 wires that test as ign. To tell the difference I need to insert the key into the cylinder w/o turning it and start the RS. My door chime will sound indicating I have the correct wire.
I haven't actually done this test yet. I just found the ign wire that was mentioned on my wire diagram (pin 22 connector 1). I actually posted my entire diagram earlier in this thread. Can it be possible I have the wrong wire if my ign still comes on?

I will definately ground the small purple to see what happens.





Posted By: Twelvoltz
Date Posted: November 29, 2007 at 12:10 PM
Do that test to ensure you are on the correct wire. Disconnect the WHITE/ blue and try the RS. Keep us posted.

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Installer, IT support, and FFL. I need less hobbies.




Posted By: adroc3905
Date Posted: November 29, 2007 at 5:33 PM

Ok, I got the RS to function w/ the key in the ign. I have narrowed my prior failed attempts to an incorrect tach wire. I switched to voltage sensing and it fires up. Where is the closest correct tach wire in my 04 Grand Prix? Anything inside the car?

When it fires my headlights and dash lights blink on and off and my ign chime keeps pace w/ the blinking. I am not sure if it is b/c I am using the key to RS but it’s the only thing that works right now b/c my bypass is having issues.

As suspected my stupid PKU-GM did not program correctly. I have repeated the programming like 60 times and nothing works. I even tried starting the car w/ the key in the ign and the bypass connected/energized and the car does not like whatever signal it is receiving from the bypass antenna. I followed those program directions to a "T". Key on for 2 secs then off. Hold transponder w/o harness connected (screw side) against transponder ring. I even wrapped the antennawire around the actual black transponder ring connected to the ign cylinder. Any thoughts? Please don’t tell me I am SOL and I will need to spend another $50.00 on a transponder.






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