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2001 honda civic drivers side door lock

Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Security and Convenience
Forum Discription: Car Alarms, Keyless Entries, Remote Starters, Immobilizer Bypasses, Sensors, Door Locks, Window Modules, Heated Mirrors, Heated Seats, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=99554
Printed Date: May 21, 2024 at 1:52 PM


Topic: 2001 honda civic drivers side door lock

Posted By: ogiebobo
Subject: 2001 honda civic drivers side door lock
Date Posted: December 01, 2007 at 3:12 PM

I am trying to install an alarm in my '01 Civic.  I've got it all in, but have a problem with the driver's side door lock.  In my car I have to pull the driver's door handle out before I can lock the door.  Because of this, when trying to lock the door with the alarm's remote, all the doors except the drivers door lock.  Does anyone know how to bypass this annoying feauture Honda implemented?

I used the following wires in my installation of the alarm to control the door locks:

Pwr Door Lock (-): WHT/BLU - Factory alarm plug @ drivers kick panel

Pwr Door Unlock (-): WHT/GRN - - Factory alarm plug @ drivers kick panel

Thanks - Alex




Replies:

Posted By: ogiebobo
Date Posted: December 01, 2007 at 3:18 PM

In addition to the above problem I tapped the blue tach. connector by the battery and it is outputting 15 volts.  My autopage manual says it should be 1-6v AC.  There are no other blue wires in this area, anyone know what I could be doing wrong here?

Thanks- Alex





Posted By: perly
Date Posted: December 01, 2007 at 4:15 PM
is this the tach wire? if so then it should be the right one. it is blue wire by itself with a rubber connector on the end.

posted_image




Posted By: perly
Date Posted: December 01, 2007 at 4:21 PM
ok upon reading your lock issue i have to ask you a really redundant question. Are you trying to lock the door when the door is closed and it is not locking? or are you doing all of the testing with the door open? I know it is a basic question but i need to ask because if the door is closed and it is still not locking(but every other door is locking)then I have no idea what is wrong. From all the hondas that i have owned I know that if the door is open then you need to pull the handle to lock it but if the door is closed it should lock with no problems.




Posted By: moonliter
Date Posted: December 01, 2007 at 4:28 PM

I found out this schematic for 2001 honda civic, check the yel/red wire with your meter, if it shows neg when you pull the door handle, then you could pulse this wire with the same door lock wire from the rs/alarm diode isolated.

     posted_image

you can always use the fuel injector wire (odd color for the tach)





Posted By: KarTuneMan
Date Posted: December 01, 2007 at 5:31 PM
Roll the window down... and test locks with the door closed.




Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: December 02, 2007 at 1:55 PM

Rule 1) When testing for door locks close "keep" at lock.

Rule 2) Some vehicles eg E36 3 series BMW and C/E class Mercedes require the door contact switch closed as well

Rule 4) Some wont lock with the key in the ignition

Rule 5) Following on from Kar Tune Man, also remove key!

Sorry bad day just sat in front of the TV  to watch my overated bunch of amateurs soccer team lose again, and disobeying rule 5 once cost me $200!





Posted By: tedmond
Date Posted: December 02, 2007 at 6:52 PM

honda locks will only lock all doors if the driver door is closed. This prevent u from leaving keys etc inside. U can lock all doors by holding the handle out then locking, or do what kartuneman said as test. Roll down windows, close the door then lock. all door should lock.  There is no real way of bypassing the honda lock. I know its not RULE 2 that howie II mentioned because i have done hondas from time-to-time and they will only lock when u actaully close the door, the door locking will trigger somthing inside door. Also the tach connecter, honda has them at either 3 locations, on passengers firewall, at the Coil itself or behind the battery in a 2 pin connecter with a blackboot covering it. That is a TACH TEST connecter, but works as well. I have used that connection man times before and it works fine. It might be showing 15v when running because you have your DMM onDC,remeber test with AC on ur DMM. if u want to be safe, then run it to the coil on engine just to be 100% sure. by i do what works for me. BTW is that a RED T-Tap i see or scotchlock? take 2 min of your time and actaully solder this ONE connection. I learned overtime to never use ttaps on tach cuz people always comeback. Solder this one connection, it will save u from doing the same thingagainin a few years =D

good luck





Posted By: ogiebobo
Date Posted: December 02, 2007 at 8:27 PM

Ok, just closing the door works!  I never thought to test it with the door closed. 

As for the tach, I tapped the wire just before the plug.  I'll have to retest it again and double check my multimeter settings.  When I did it I stripped the insulation back and soldered on a wire to connect to the alarm brain.  Is there a better way I should be making this connection to the tach?

Thanks, Alex





Posted By: tedmond
Date Posted: December 02, 2007 at 8:46 PM

if u soldered then thats the best it can get.





Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: December 03, 2007 at 3:21 AM
Yes as tedmond says you joined it correctly. Further to measuring, set DMM to ac, black probe to ground and red to blue wire (incidentally it's on the r/h side adjacent to suspension housing on r/h drivers) it should measure 3-6vac with engine runing, technically if ac is a sine curve you're seeing the top half and most ordinary DMM's won't catch this therefore set to ac. PS, I also use the blue wire.





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