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viper 3000 in a volvo 240 me

Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Security and Convenience
Forum Discription: Car Alarms, Keyless Entries, Remote Starters, Immobilizer Bypasses, Sensors, Door Locks, Window Modules, Heated Mirrors, Heated Seats, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=99644
Printed Date: May 21, 2024 at 3:54 AM


Topic: viper 3000 in a volvo 240 me

Posted By: drturbo
Subject: viper 3000 in a volvo 240 me
Date Posted: December 04, 2007 at 3:47 AM

I have a 1983 Volvo 245 Wagon that I am adding a Viper 3000 alarm system 
to. However, I am a bit stumped by the Vipers' door lock harness wire
connections to the Volvo's factory central locking system.
I would prefer to retain the current functionality. That is, the car
can be unlocked by key (in the driver's door lock), or by lock plunger
(inside the car). But, I am willing to forgo this functionality if it
becomes a problem.
Below are pictures of the PDF files from the Viper's manual and the Volvo
factory manual. The Viper's page shows the connection for the door lock
harness. The other pictures show central locking system for the 240 series.

posted_image

The picture below shows an unmodified picture of the central locking 
system in the 240 series. 
The dark lines indicate an always-on 12 volt signal, while the "white"
lines show inactive lines (unless a switch is activated)

  posted_image" IDEA 1
 
Please notice I had to add an actuator to the driver's door (line J
from the legend) in order to have the driver's door open with the remote
entry key fob.
This photo shows the input lines both the unlock (D) and lock (E) relays
have been cut. The following connections have been made from the Viper's
door lock harness:

H2/B is connected to the output of key switch and the door switch
H2/C is connected to the input of the unlock relay
H2/D is connected to an "always on" terminal on the fuse panel
H2/E is connected to the output of key switch and the door switch
H2/F is connected to the input of the lock relay
H2/G is connected to an "always on" terminal on the fuse panel

An actuator (or motor) is connected in parallel with the rest of the 
actuators (for the driver's door).

My only fear for this setup is that the existing system will not function
via the key switch or the door switch (since it is effectively disconnected
from the system unless the key fob is pressed)

posted_image" IDEA 2  

Please notice I had to add an actuator to the driver's door (line J 
from the legend) in order to have the driver's door open with the remote 
entry key fob.

This photo shows the input lines both the unlock (blue wire) and lock
(yellow wire) connections have been cut. The following connections have
been made from the Viper's door lock harness:

H2/B is connected to the blue wire that leads to the output of unlock
relay
H2/C is connected to the blue wire that leads to the added actuator
H2/D is connected to an "always on" terminal on the fuse panel
H2/E is connected to the yellow wire that leads to the output of the lock
relay 
H2/F is connected to the yellow wire that leads to the added actuator
H2/G is connected to an "always on" terminal on the fuse panel.

My fear for this type of connection is that the relays onboard the Viper
will not funcion unless either the key switch or the door switch is activated
(completing the circuit and providing a trigger for the Viper's onboard
relays

posted_image

Idea 3

Please notice I had to add an actuator to the driver's door (line J 
from the legend) in order to have the driver's door open with the remote
entry key fob

This photo shows the input lines to the added motor connected directly 
 to the Viper's door lock harness. The following connections have been
made from the Viper's door lock harness

H2/B is connected to the green wire that connects the door/key switch
to the unlock relay
H2/C is connected to the blue wire of the added actuator
H2/D is connected to an "always on" terminal on the fuse panel
H2/E is connected to the red wire that is connects the door/key switch
to the lock relay
H2/F is connected to the yellow wire of the added actuator
H2/G is connected to an "always on" terminal on the fuse panel

An actuator (or motor) is independant of the rest of the actuators.

I think this one works the best because I have connected H2/B and H2/E
to wires that are always "hot". The actuator should fire when
the key fob is pressed popping actuator J (which should cause the rest
of the central locking system to unlock the rest of the doors). Popping 
actuator J is like using the key or door switches (in theory).

posted_image 
Please let me know if any ideas will work, or provide some other ways 
to connect the Viper's door lock harness to my Volvo's central locking
system.

Thank you very much for your time!




Replies:

Posted By: Twelvoltz
Date Posted: December 04, 2007 at 9:58 AM
As you have already stated, your Volvo has central locking, meaning when you lock or unlock the driver's door the remaining doors do the same. You do not hook up any of the Viper's wires to the Volvo's door locks, just to your aftermarket actuator. Adding an actuator to the driver's door will not stop the key from manually opening the lock so long as it is installed properly. To wire your actuator you would follow the diagram listed on pagethis page. Each pin of your door lock harness matches a pin in the diagram listed.

-------------
Installer, IT support, and FFL. I need less hobbies.




Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: December 04, 2007 at 10:39 AM
You should have asked earlier, plan 2:- Purple and purple black, ground. White /black  and BROWN / black don't use.Green /black to terminal 85 on lock relay, blue/black to terminal 85 in unlock relay, join don't cut, that's it. No interferance with existing system. You've already wired your door actuator correctly from the motor outputs of the relays, this is exactly how we did it all those years ago.




Posted By: drturbo
Date Posted: December 04, 2007 at 11:24 PM
Twelvoltz wrote:

As you have already stated, your Volvo has central locking, meaning when you lock or unlock the driver's door the remaining doors do the same. You do not hook up any of the Viper's wires to the Volvo's door locks, just to your aftermarket actuator. Adding an actuator to the driver's door will not stop the key from manually opening the lock so long as it is installed properly. To wire your actuator you would follow the diagram listed on pagethis page. Each pin of your door lock harness matches a pin in the diagram listed.


I want to make sure I understand your advice. I'm going to use my understanding of the Viper's Door Lock Harness Wire Connection Guide and the Actuators/Reverse Polarity guide to help me understand your suggested connections.

H2/B is connected #87a to ground
H2/C is connected #30 to the unlock blue wire on the actuator
H2/D is connected #87 to an "always on" terminal on the fuse panel
H2/E is connected #87a to ground
H2/F is connected #30 to the lock yellow wire on the actuator
H2/G is connected #87 to an "always on" terminal on the fuse panel

Keep in mind, I am using a Volvo factory actuator that bolts right in to the driver's door (no fabbing necessary). This actuator uses the same color coding as the rest of the actuators in the system.

I'm making a big assumption here. I'm assuming pins 85 and 86 of the Viper's onboard relay system are connected to there respective connections (according the the Actuators/Reverse Polarity diagram on this site.

Thanks again for your help.




Posted By: Twelvoltz
Date Posted: December 05, 2007 at 7:15 AM
I am not familiar with a Volvo factory actuator, but if it is a simple 2-wire actuator the diagram you have is correct.

85 and 86 are indeed controlled internally on your system.




-------------
Installer, IT support, and FFL. I need less hobbies.




Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: December 05, 2007 at 8:46 AM

This is so simple, read my post again it's the easiest way, it was suggested to us by an alarm manufacturer back in the '80s, you only need neg outputs from the alarm to accomplish it. This assumes you've changed the  original switch in the driver's door for a 5 wire actuator or tandemned the actuator with the original switch. Come to think of it I use the same process in early 90s UK Maimas and Saabs.





Posted By: drturbo
Date Posted: December 17, 2007 at 1:34 AM
First of all, I want to thank both of you (Twelvoltz and howie ll) for your help with my alarm system.

I actually tried both styles. Twelvoltz version worked great except the Volvo factory actuator I used was not powerful enough to pop the remaining passenger doors. I'm sure this setup would work much better if I purchased a more powerful actuator, but I need to stay on budget.

So, then I tried howie ll's method. It worked even better because all of actuators were firing at the same time. YAY, all four doors unlock remotely!

You guys are an asset to The12volt.com. It's people like you that keep me coming back to site every now and again. Thank you very much!





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