Printer Friendly Forum Posts - code ca 670, 96 4runner

Hello,

I am going to be installing an alarm and remote start (Code CA-670) in my 1996 Toyota 4Runner Ltd, and I cant for the life of me seem to find any websites that can give me the install info that I need for the car. Also, does anyone have any tips on utilizing the power locking feature on this unit? My truck has PL but no keyless...1 turn of key UL DS door, 2 turns unlocks all other doors...

I've search the12v.com but have only seen wiring info for other years.

So can someone PLEASE post the wiring information? It would be really appreciated.

Thanks.

Craig

here you go:

https://64.85.6.121/diagrams/printpage.asp?ModelID=12524&MakeID=2

flobee4 wrote:

here you go:
https://64.85.6.121/diagrams/printpage.asp?ModelID=12524&MakeID=2

Ahhh sweet. Thanks. It just hit -20 today and those leather seats are like bricks...that RS will be none-too-soon....C

I have almost completed the installation of a Code CA670 in my 96 4Runner but had a couple of questions.

1. Do the Dome Light Supervision output and the Negative Door Input wires BOTH go to the same negative wire on the door pin switch? The wording in the manual is a bit confusing, but it looks like they do...

2. Does the Headlight output need to be connected? Both printouts i have for a 96 4Runner indicate a Red wire in the steering column harness, which I can not find. I tested several others with no luck.

3. External Start Trigger.- The manual says it is needed only for RS install, but doesn't say where it goes...just that it will activate on ground pulse from an external device...

lastly...

4. 2nd accessory wire...is it req'd for proper operation? Can't find a 2nd acc wire on the 4runner.

Any help is appreciated...

Thanks

1. Yes

2. No it is not a mandatory connection. The parking lights should be hooked up for visual confirmation but headlights are not mandatory.

3. External start trigger is there in case you wanted to activate the remote start portion of the system from another source. It is not a mandatory connection.

4. You do not need the second accessory output. Your vehicle has 2 ignitions and your system has 2 ignition outputs so use them but the second accessory is not required.

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Installer, IT support, and FFL. I need less hobbies.

Thanks twelvoltz, this is a great site...I'll be supporting it!

Oh man this install is causing me grief.

I followed the startup procedure in the manual. It says to turn the ignition to "on", insert the fuses and then turn the car off. Now as soon as I install the fuse for the 4 pin power harness, the lights flash and the alarm LED flashes, but no siren or horn. The lights are pulsing with 2 quick flashes, off for a second, one quick flash then rinse and repeat. wth? Then when I turn the key off, the alarm and horn go nuts. I have to pull the fuse to kill it or yank the 22 pin connector. I tried a combination with door open & closed, locks open & closed but nothing works.

One thing I noticed on the negative door pin is that the when the light is on, it only drops to 1v...not sure if that could be causing the system griefsince it is looking for OV.

Can someone point me in the right direction? I really don't care about the alarm, I just want locks and RS. It has got to be something simple that I am overlooking.

Thanks

do that again, but when ur car wails, take ur controller and hit unlock, that should set the system to disarm. if it drops to 1v that should be fine. when i probe my wires for door pins, i always get 0.8 - 1v. U need about 9v to actaully trigger the unit.

Thanks Tedmond....does the door need to be open or does that matter? I'll give that a try in the AM...

close ur door. connect the fuse back, let the car wail on you and press lock or unlock on ur key fob. it should disarm the system and thats it. the door when closed should show 0.8 - 1v when closed and will show 12 when door is opened.

Well, I tried putting the fuses in and disarming the alarm thru the remote, but no go. As soon as I put either fuse in (RS 6 pin harness or 4 pin power harness) the dash and parking lights start to flash wildly. When I turn the key off, the siren and alarm go off and can't be shut down other than by pulling the fuse.

I'm wondering if it has something to do with how I connected the dome light supervision & negative door input on the alarm unit to the negative door pin on the truck. I questioned that earlier but twelvolz said I was right wiring it that way. I definitley have the unit set for negative dome polarity.

Anybody have any other ideas? It's probably a one month wait to take it in to any local guys...IF they will even touch it...

I can list which wires I have connected where, but that will be a long post...

Thanks...

I installed these units for about a year (what a long year it was!) These are great units on paper and when they hold their programing. Most of these ca units come w/the remotes unprogramed. You need to place the unit into vallet mode. (read manual as i dont remember maybey ign on then press and hold led/vallet button untill led turns solid blue?) Then You have to program the remotes. I hope you don't have to change any programing options. Good luck!

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Test it w/your meter!!!

I just had a read thru on one of several wiring diagrams I have for this truck (the one that is the 2nd post on this thread...) and it mentions that I need a Part Relay with the Dome Light Supervison? This is the only wiring diagram that mentions this, and of course I don't have one installed. Is it just a normal SPDT relay?

yes, it will require a relay for the use of domelight supervision. A Sigle Pole Single Throw (SPST) will work just fine.

86 - Constant 12v
85 - dome light activation wire from unit
70 - high current ground
30 - to door trigger.

in some cases, units will automatically ignore door for 30seconds until the dome light shuts off then arm. Some units must be entered into program mode to learn the wait time on the light supervision.

Thanks Tedmond, just so I am clear, the pupose of this is to ground the door trigger when activated from the alarm brain? Basically ground 70 and tie 30 to the (-) door trigger?

Thanks

Thanks Tedmond, just so I am clear, the pupose of this is to ground the door trigger when activated from the alarm brain? Basically ground 70 and tie 30 to the (-) door trigger?

yea, the only reason uuse a relay because ur unit cant send out a strong enough signal to trigger dome lights. the dome lights draw a hefty ammount of current. If u connected ur brain wire to that, it would fry ur unit. since the output on brains are only 500ma. domelights are max 15amps or so.

Ha, I bet I fried that output already then...but maybe not. I'll install the relay and see if that works. I wonder ...if the Dome Light output on the brain is fried, could I just not connect the dome light cct?

I better start trolling eBay for another Code brain....

Actually, the dome light output on the CA-670 has an internal relay, so I think it is okay to hook it directly to the door trigger....the unit has selectable +/- for Dome, Parking and trunk...

if it does have an internal relay, yes u can connect it directly. U can go to the door trigger, or go straight to the domelight. when u go to the domelight, sometimes it might be more work for u. but since its ur car, i guess u wont mind putting the time out :p

Just wanted to close this thread by saying that I got the unit to go into programming mode finally and followed the following procedure I found on another thread (thanks Hagmanti). All in all, it was a tough install for me as it was my first RS w/ alarm. In the summer I may connect the windows and defrost, but I'm just happy to have the RS, DL's and alarm all functioning properly...thanks for the help guys.

Turn on the ignition.

Put the fuses in. (parking lites flash and relays in the brain click away)

Turn the ignition off. (alarm goes off, lights flash)

Close all the doors, then open one (or more).

Turn on the ignition. Press and hold the valet button. After 5-10 seconds, the LED should light solid. Continue holding the button. You will hear 3 chirps. Now press the lock button on whatever remotes you want to control the brain. (I had to program the LED remote twice for some reason. The first programming would lock/unlock, but not RS. The second program attempt allowed RS and lock/unlock)

That last step needs to be completed relatively quickly (no more than 10 seconds or so between steps).