2003 Durango Domelight Delay/Window Mod

I just had a Viper 790XV installed on my 2003 Durango and have had a nightmare experience with the installation techs and have gone back 5 or 6 times to get it fixed for various issues.

The only issue I have now is the domelight delay. (Doors read open if I don't wait for the light to go off) The installer says there' s nothing i can do, but I read here that there may be other wires that i could use to trigger the doors instead of the domelight. Can anyone tell me if this is true for my vehicle, which wires i should use and how to hook it up?

I realize this is a subject that has been touched on here many times before, but I need help, because my installers are not giving me any.

Thanks
Chris

I would like to add the window roll up feature to my Viper 790XV, but what i would like to do is have all 4 windows roll up on arming the security and have the ability to roll down only the front windows with my aux button. Is this possible perhaps by using the 529T on the rear windows and the 530T on the front? Would I be able to have seperate control that way?

Thanks,
Chris

you should be able to do the windows that way as far as the domelight it sounds like they got the domelight wire instead of the door triggers themselves. i got that wire as well and just turned off the bypass chirp on my alarm but i have an magnadyne m-10 in mine. i put the 530t on front and back keep in mind they just vent not roll all the way down.

Damn, i thought it rolled the windows all the way down. Are there any modules out there that will?

As far as the domelight goes, the diagram shows that all of the doors are connected to the yellow domelight wire. I don't know if there are any other wires from the doors that i might be able to use or if I could use the "DOOR AJAR" light. Does anyone know the answer to this?

Chris

they are using the yellow domelight wire for door trigger, this si not the right wire. there are two (for two door models) and three for four door models.  they are above the drivers kick panel in a white plug.  im not sure off hand the colors i will have to get back to you with them.  i think the drivers door is tan and the others should be tan/black, tan/red or tan/orange.  dont quote me on that yet. if you program the error chirp off this will not fix your problem.  your main problem is after you arm your car the doors are not protected until the dome light delay turns off.  the only thing that will do is make it so you dont get the second "error" chirp after you arm it. you definatly want to tag the right wires.  as for you windows,  you will have to put two 530t modules in it. use the orange wire from your alarm brain and conect it to both moduels.  you have to diode isolate them from you starter kill relay.  if you only want the front windows to roll down:  connect the aux output from the brain to only the front window module.  the 530t will roll them down all the way.  if you press aux once they will crack if you hold it down they will go al the way down.  hope this helps if you still need the door colors let me know and i will look them up.

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Phill Bowen
Lead Installer,
Master of all trades.

Wow! Great info. Thanks a million.

According to the 2002 diagram the front door is tan and all other doors are tan/red. I'll take a look and see if I can get it to work.

I encountered this same dome light problem on my 02 Dakota that I had an alarm installed on, the installer connected to the yellow dome light and I was having the same problem as you, what I did to correct it was to use the door ajar trigger wires, the tan and the tan/red and diode isolate them, but what happened then was about 30 seconds after setting the alarm the alarm would activate, I then used the relay scheme for the Windstar posted on this site. Another problem I was having was when the alarm was connected to the yellow wires my locks that should of locked when the ignition was turned on was very intermittent, they would not lock more times than they would lock, the alarm was seeing the dome light and thinking the door was still open.
Since using the method above everything has been working fine for at least 6 months.

As far as using the dome light wire for your door trigger wire the only downside is that you get the warning chirp that a door is open, because that it was the alarm "sees". As soon as your domelight delay expires and the light goes out, the door triggers will arm, and your alarm is fully functional.

Omega's Au-93-4 will roll down/up 4 windows all the way with only a pulse or you could cut a loop to make them require a constant trigger. It's kinda cool to watch because it does 1 window at a time! It starts on the drivers front side then to the passanger side. i have the wiring instructions on www.alarm.floaterr.com if you want to check them out

Ok so here it is:

When I pulled the kick panel off I noticed the problem right away. The installer had connected the rear hatch (tan/black) wire ok, the passenger door (tan/red) was connected ok with a diode, but then for some reason he also hooked up the yellow domelight wire with a diode instead of the driver door (tan) wire. So i removed the yellow domelight wire and connected the tan with a diode to the alarm along with the passenger door wire and the problem seems to be solved.

Thanks everyone. I'm surprised i wasn't having more problems with the way this had been connected.

Chris.

damn rookie....

yeah....and supposedly he's the best they have and the assistant manager in the car audio dept. Circuit City in Burbank, in case anyone was wondering. I definitely would not recommend anyone having an alarm installed there.

man i think you should go take his job. you know more than he does.  I work for Circuit City in laguna hills.  What was his name?  this kind of s$*t happens all the time with C.C. it drives me nuts cause this stuff is so basic for someone in this industry.  i an the only installer in my shop that knows anything about security not to mention anything else about installing.  the "kids" circuit city employs are not installers they look for young kids either still in or just out of high school cause they are cheap labor. it sucks for the guys like myself who actually care about and want to learn about this stuff.  i am proud to say i know just about everything there is to know about cars. ive worked on cars now for about 7 years.  i used to be a mechanic so i know how they run as well as anything inside them.  but, because of that my job is so difficult at circuit cause im always helping other people that work there.  i get a million phone calls a day about stupid stuff like this cause no one else can or wants to figure it out.  and as for the managers at circuit city there are hardly any left with any install backgrounds (in my market).  so you have managers managing installers and they dont even know what they are managin.  makes sence huh? but that means i can do whatever i want cause who can question me?? my boss?

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Phill Bowen
Lead Installer,
Master of all trades.

I agree with you Phill on that one........ all those BIG STORES are a joke when it comes down to installations. All they care about is the one time customers and they don't care about repeat business unlike the smaller shops that rely on the repeat customers and good references from those same customers.

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Jeff
Velocity Custom Home Theater
Mobile Audio/Video Specialist
Morden, Manitoba CANADA

Yeah I'm through dealing with that store for installations. The only reason I even had them do it was, because they were the only ones who had that alarm. I wish I would have found this site before i had the problems, then i would have just done it myself.

Thanks for all the help.

By the way, someone here mentioned to me earlier that i could snip the light blue wire at the ignition to deactivate the "key-in-ignition" warning tone when the door is open. Does anyone know if this will affect any other operation of the Durango or interfere with the operation of my alarm?

Thanks,
Chris

yea you can cut it, i would try to find the actual chime element itself and unplug it if possible.  if you cant, you can cut that wire without effecting the operation of anything else but im not sure of the color of that wire.  but i know its possible cause ive done it for someone before.

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Phill Bowen
Lead Installer,
Master of all trades.

Cool. i think I'll throw a toggle in-line and see if it works. The buzzer unfortunately is soldered onto the board that controls the door triggers and domelight. on the driver side kick panel. On my last car I was able to just unplug the whole mechanism.

Thanks again.