If you would like to increase the horsepower of your vehicle, follow these steps. Find your IAT (Air Intake Temp) Sensor. Mesaure the resistance it gives when you FIRST start the car up, write it down. Drive around, let it get to the normal operating temp, then do a nother reading, write that down. This is a simple 12VOLT kind of modification!
You now have your MIN and MAX settings now. Usually, a 4.7K-Ohm 1/2watt resistor fools the ECM/ECU into thinking the Air Temp is 58-Degrees, this will change the air/fuel ratio and rich it up a little. The only reason a 1/2 watt is used is becuase the leads are thicker and plug in to the recepticle much better, and firm!
With the car off, pull the IAT sensor plug, get your 4.7K 1/2watt and plug that in by bridging it in, one lead in one side, the other lead in the other side. The ECU will now think the ait is cooler. YOu can seal the thing with Electrical tape, or whatever to weatherize it, if you feel that will short out when it rains.
Before you judge, these sell on EBAY for over 10.00 each, what a Gyp! Get the word out, do not buy them from EBAY!! You can buy FIVE of these reisitors for .99 cents at Radio Shack. I have one in my Avenger, and the power curve is very consistant, and does not get sloppy when the motor heats up. My IAT is in the Manifold, and that will be much hotter than the air coming in, so it will heat the air up to the Manifold temp.
The REASON I hade you do the COLD/HOT reading instructions, is you can install a POT, and adjust the IAT readings on the fly to give you more boost. Some cars may get a 1.5degree timing advance as well, and that helps with off the line results. It DOES work, the question is how much. They say 10-20HP, but do not expect mroe than 5-7HP at the wheels. Every little bit helps, and for .99 cents, ya can't go too wrong.
Do not go too far COLD readings, as the ECU will detect the rich mixture from the O2 sensor, and narrow the pulse width to the Injectors, stopping the extra duel. Each car has a tolerance, stay within the tolerances, and the Check Engine Light will stay off, and the ECU will not make any radical asjustents to the other systems. This may also work with your ECT sensor also (engine cooland Temp). These mods have beem around for about 10 years now, and works on any MPI system. Use a higher octane for even better results, as higher octane burns faster than lower, but is not neccessary.
If you live in an area where the intake temp is ALWAYS 58 or lower, this will not work. If you have Detonation or Knock retard, so not do this either.
You can also MOVE the IAT to the intake tube, just before the MAF sensor if your IAT is in the Manifold (some fords are in the second intake manifold runner).
Tell me what ya think!
SEE THE INFORMATION HERE!I am no expert but this was discussed in one of the other forums I follow, doesn't this make the engine run too rich? That sensor is there for a reason, mainly to adjust the fuel and timing to accomadate to different climates.
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this modification does nothing, ur ait is one of the few things use to determine fuel mixture, if the car sees its running rich by the means of the o2 sensor it will adjust fuel accordingly, and will prove this mod pointless, not to mention runing rich hurts horsepower, running lean is where u get more power
you said it little bill. air and flow is horse power. running a little rich is fine if you have a blower. I'm no expert on the little rice rockets. but i know on the big blocks and hemi's that what you want.
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Big Dave
actually running rich and more air will give you more horsepower... not just this mod...
the blower is what gives you more air and compression. thats why you run low compression pistons and rich fuel mix. the blower is an awsome thing.
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Big Dave