home stereo in car lol?
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URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=79200
Printed Date: April 30, 2024 at 2:42 AM
Topic: home stereo in car lol?
Posted By: pmh61
Subject: home stereo in car lol?
Date Posted: June 16, 2006 at 11:26 AM
well to day i had a guy come in and say he didn't like any co axes or componets that he has heard, but the ones he did like cost to much. so he said that he was gona use some of his home stereo stuff take them out of the box and put them in his door panel for some 3ways, i am not hating on the idea its something different i was just wondering has anybody here ever tried that and what happend i am kinda interested just for the hell of it. who knows they might sound ok, and he told me they were some new pioneers had a 8" woofer 3.5"mid and 1" tweet. I think this is gona bug me till i try it just for ease of mind has me tripping out.
Replies:
Posted By: bdl666
Date Posted: June 16, 2006 at 12:57 PM
I've done it. A few years back my brother wanted components for his car but didn't have the money. So he took a pair of Infinity bookshelf speakers that he had and ask me if I could make some kick panel enclosures for him. I did make them and since the original boxes were sealed it was easy to to make the kicks the same volume. The funny thing is that the speakers sounded better in the kicks than on the original boxes. That car was the only 83 Corolla with kicks and a good sounding system around here. ------------- ieSpell rocks.
Posted By: haemphyst
Date Posted: June 16, 2006 at 1:17 PM
Why do you find this amusing? A speaker is a speaker is a speaker...
Technically and physically, they do EXACTLY the same thing. I don't have any problem with it at all. I have used 8 ohm Morel (a so-called "home" speaker...) drivers in my doors for years.
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It all reminds me of something that Molière once said to Guy de Maupassant at a café in Vienna: "That's nice. You should write it down."
Posted By: rdaudio
Date Posted: June 16, 2006 at 1:36 PM
only problem is home audio is not built to withstand the abuse of the car audio world. they have thinner cones less power handeling and the ohms dont work home is 16 or 8 ohm setups. ive seen people put concert speakers in there trunk people will do whatever to get some sound and most people even in car audio dont use everything neccasary to have a good sounding car. people will spend what ever on woofers and a class d amp but dont buy dynomat or batterys or a high out put alt. or even new door speakers.
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Revolution Design Audio
Posted By: speedwayaudio1
Date Posted: June 17, 2006 at 7:36 PM
Back in the day everybody did that.
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Big Dave
Posted By: spookiestylez
Date Posted: June 17, 2006 at 8:26 PM
90% of the home speakers I see in peoples car's are home speaker boxes hooked up off their rear speakers, and have em sittin in the seat....then asking me, why does my radio keep cutting off ------------- RTFM
Posted By: haemphyst
Date Posted: June 17, 2006 at 10:00 PM
rdaudio wrote:
only problem is home audio is not built to withstand the abuse of the car audio world. they have thinner cones less power handeling and the ohms dont work home is 16 or 8 ohm setups. ive seen people put concert speakers in there trunk people will do whatever to get some sound and most people even in car audio dont use everything neccasary to have a good sounding car. people will spend what ever on woofers and a class d amp but dont buy dynomat or batterys or a high out put alt. or even new door speakers.
Wow... are YOU ever out of touch... I have used so-called "home" speakers more in my systems than I have ever used so-called "car" speakers, with far better and longer lasting results. The "abuse" you refer to is really nothing more than temperature extremes. The finest "home" drivers in the world use butyl surrounds, with aluminum voice coil formers, (and even more exotic materials in many cases) and are perfectly at home on hostile environments... As far as the impedance "issue" to which you refer, nearly ALL "home" drivers now come in 4 ohm ratings... Even if they WERE only available as 8 or 16 ohm drivers, (which they aren't) why do you, why WOULD you, believe this is a bad thing?
When is the last time you used a 6 inch woofer in your doors with a 3 inch voice-coil, 120 Watt RMS and a 1200 (yes, one THOUSAND-two hundred) watt peak power capability? And that peak spec is at 1Khz, for 1000 milliseconds... ONE FULL SECOND at 1200 watts! Look into Morel, my friend... Those are the very woofers I have in my doors presently. I've never in my life seen a "car" speaker rated like that, have you?
Nah... All I am saying is that "all generalizations are false" (let's see if anybody catches the irony in that statement). But really, you need to look into the blurred line that you have painted to be razor sharp between "home" and "car". Chosen properly and carefully, there is no "car" driver (or at a minimum, VERY few) on the planet that will compete in any respect with a true high-end "home" driver. ------------- It all reminds me of something that Molière once said to Guy de Maupassant at a café in Vienna: "That's nice. You should write it down."
Posted By: saturnsubohio
Date Posted: June 18, 2006 at 9:14 PM
haemphyst wrote:
Why do you find this amusing? A speaker is a speaker is a speaker...
Technically and physically, they do EXACTLY the same thing. I don't have any problem with it at all. I have used 8 ohm Morel (a so-called "home" speaker...) drivers in my doors for years.
I am quoting this for truth. I am now using so called home audio speakers for my front doors at the advice of some members here, i cant begin to thank them enough for thier advice, i've never heard such crisp clean highs and solid lows from a 6.5" woofer.
my doors are now louder than the old 10"s i used to have when i was a Best Buy kid. ------------- 2006 WRX STI
Electrical Engineer
Ohio University Alumni
Posted By: placebo-pete
Date Posted: August 04, 2006 at 7:08 AM
My dad grafted in a Maudant Short 8" sub in to the passenger footwell of a mercedes E300 it has a beautiful sound with a nice punch to it aswell. Although he has plans to fit in a 10" now I don't know sometimes I have to worry whether he's gonna beat me into submission in a sound off one day!! Placebo-Pete
Posted By: dwrwebb
Date Posted: August 04, 2006 at 9:26 PM
I have 2 Cerwin Vega 380SE (somewhat old now, but in great shape) With two 6", one 2" ( just guessing) tweeter, and one 15" sub in each tower. By removing the screen, you gain access to individual tone control knobs (bass, treble). I thought about dismantling the towers and making new enclosures to replace the low grade speakers that had been connected to our reciever, but then I wondered about putting them in my crown victoria. They are 4 ohm speakers, but there are numerous resistors in each tower (both standard tube resistors, and coil resistors), and a fuse. Would I need to get new resistors, or could I simply yank the old speakers in my car, redo the dynomat, and stick them in? what about the subs? I've been trying to research the car audio stuff for a few days, and then I happened across this post, and it sounds like some of you guys are very knowledgable.. Just thought I'd seek some advice. Thanks
Posted By: stevdart
Date Posted: August 05, 2006 at 6:48 AM
Old Cerwin Vega loudspeakers, as ^^^^ said.... that's what got me into speaker-building as a hobby...looking at ways to use the drivers out of those huge old cabinets. After a while you get over the tendency to worry about using the "right" speaker for either home or car, and you just experiment.
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Build the box so that it performs well in the worst case scenario and, in return, it will reward you at all times.
Posted By: dwrwebb
Date Posted: August 05, 2006 at 12:02 PM
so you're saying just do what I think is right, and work from there?
Posted By: stevdart
Date Posted: August 05, 2006 at 11:33 PM
dwrwebb, the individual drivers in those CW cabinets are connected via an electronic crossover. This crossover consists of coils, capacitors and resistors. They are connected like this so that each driver plays a certain frequency range and interact with each other harmoniously. Now, what you think is right and what I think is right are probably two entirely different things...so....the answer is no. But, it you're bent on destroying the old speaker system anyway and won't suffer the loss, then yes...experiment. You can only grow from there, which is the way I did it.
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Build the box so that it performs well in the worst case scenario and, in return, it will reward you at all times.
Posted By: dwrwebb
Date Posted: August 06, 2006 at 10:00 AM
actually, I dont want to gut the thing. I don't really want to get rid of the speakers, but our apartment is too small to use them, really. I just thought if I could gut them and use the speakers, I could get some good out of them. I guess thats too much for me (as a beginner) to try. I am having trouble figuring out the wiring in the enclosure, and thought maybe Id just strip it all, keeping it as a unit, but just out of the current box....maybe just lengthen the current wires, that way they are all connected to the resistors, etc., just not located all in the same enclosure. Would that work? what about in my car?
Posted By: Melted Fabric
Date Posted: August 07, 2006 at 5:09 PM
What is the power rating on them?
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I have not failed. I've just found 10,000 ways that won't work.
When you do not know what you are doing and what you are doing is the best -- that is inspiration.
Posted By: dwrwebb
Date Posted: August 07, 2006 at 8:18 PM
Model 380SE Specifications DESCRIPTION: 15” 3-Way Loudspeaker FREQ. RESPONSE: 25Hz –20kHz POWER HANDLING: 5/405 Watt RMS (Min/Max) SENSITIVITY: 102 dB (1 Watt @ 1 Meter) IMPEDANCE: 4 Ohms LF DRIVER: 15” die-cast frame / 2” voice-coil MF DRIVER: (2) 7” Cone HF DRIVER: 1” voice-coil horn tweeter CROSSOVER POINTS: 250 Hz/3500 Hz PROTECTION: System Fuse/2.5 Amp Slow-Blow 3 AG fuse HF Driver/Self-resetting PTC MSRP: $540CIRCA: 1985 – 1991 thats the official specs from cerwin-vega customer support....I have requested from them individual driver specs as wel...
Posted By: dwrwebb
Date Posted: August 07, 2006 at 8:33 PM
sorry about that...never crossed my mind about rich-text. here is the info again Model 380SE Specifications DESCRIPTION: 15” 3-Way Loudspeaker
FREQ. RESPONSE: 25Hz –20kHz
POWER HANDLING: 5/405 Watt RMS (Min/Max)
SENSITIVITY: 102 dB (1 Watt @ 1 Meter)
IMPEDANCE: 4 Ohms
LF DRIVER: 15” die-cast frame / 2” voice-coil
MF DRIVER: (2) 7” Cone
HF DRIVER: 1” voice-coil horn tweeter
CROSSOVER POINTS: 250 Hz/3500 Hz
PROTECTION: System Fuse/2.5 Amp Slow-Blow 3 AG fuse
HF Driver/Self-resetting PTC
MSRP: $540
CIRCA: 1985 – 1991 thats the official specs from cerwin-vega customer support....I have requested from them individual driver specs as well
Posted By: Melted Fabric
Date Posted: August 08, 2006 at 3:47 PM
Not bad, Cerwin always did make some hard hittin high-end stuff.
Looks like it will be ok with what you are trying to do as long as you match up fuse ratings and proper airspace.
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I have not failed. I've just found 10,000 ways that won't work.
When you do not know what you are doing and what you are doing is the best -- that is inspiration.
Posted By: dwrwebb
Date Posted: August 09, 2006 at 12:40 AM
Melted Fabric wrote:
Looks like it will be ok with what you are trying to do as long as you match up fuse ratings and proper airspace.
match fuse ratings? with the car? proper airspace...do you mean in the sub box?
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