high beam flash arm/disarm
Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Relays
Forum Discription: Relay Diagrams, SPDT Relays, SPST Relays, DPDT Relays, Latching Relays, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=103773
Printed Date: May 20, 2024 at 10:12 AM
Topic: high beam flash arm/disarm
Posted By: casperrx
Subject: high beam flash arm/disarm
Date Posted: April 06, 2008 at 4:41 PM
I am using a relay to make my current alarm installation flash my high beams when I Arm/Disarm my alarm.
Here is my diagram:
Ok here is the problem I am having. It works fine when i disarm/arm, but when I turn my headlights on the high beams come on with the headlights. Then when I pull the high beam switch the high beams come on brighter. So I don't understand what my problem is.
Replies:
Posted By: i am an idiot
Date Posted: April 06, 2008 at 10:05 PM
The relay is wired correctly, it should not affect anything other than flashing the lights when the alarm arms and disarms. If you remove the relay, does everything go back to normal? You may have to get the high beam wire instead of the flash to pass.
Posted By: casperrx
Date Posted: April 07, 2008 at 12:06 AM
Ya when the relay is unhooked everything is fine. I've tried wiring to the + on the high beams with the same outcome.
Posted By: i am an idiot
Date Posted: April 07, 2008 at 4:31 AM
That's strange. When that relay is not energized, it is not (should not I guess I should say) doing anything. What brand is the relay? Have you tried a different relay?
Posted By: tedmond
Date Posted: April 07, 2008 at 2:44 PM
use negative triggers for the headlights. wire relay like so. 85 - alarm positive output from alarm
86 - ground
87 - high current ground
87a - highbeam neg wire (switch side)
30 - highbeam neg wire (bulb side) doing it like so will prevent backfeed onto other lights.
Posted By: casperrx
Date Posted: April 07, 2008 at 10:12 PM
OK thanks guys will try tomorrow and let you know how it goes and what do you mean by high current ground? One that goes to the battery as opposed to the body?
Posted By: tedmond
Date Posted: April 11, 2008 at 3:03 PM
same thing as a good clean spot on the chassis.
Posted By: dualsport
Date Posted: April 17, 2008 at 10:47 PM
tedmond, assuming the car is a standard negative ground vehicle, how does switching the ground path for the headlights light them up?
The problem is that your output from your alarm parking light output is connected directly to your relay coil since you don't have any isolation, so if you turn on your parking lights, the relay will turn on and close the contacts.
Best way to go about it is to add a relay driven by your alarm's parking light output, and use that to power your parking lights, and then use a second relay driven off the same line. That way turning on your parking lights won't energize this added relay.
Posted By: davngr
Date Posted: April 18, 2008 at 5:47 AM
use diodes. two stripe going out to parking lights and relay from the alarm. problem solved. ------------- life is a comedy to think, a tragedy to feel
Posted By: dualsport
Date Posted: April 18, 2008 at 8:20 AM
The lights draw a relatively large current, so it would require large diodes to handle it. Diodes in this case will waste power (approximate watts = current draw X 0.7V) so they'll get hot if the lights are on for any extended time. High beams of 110W will draw over 9A, so the diode will have will have to dissipate over 6W. Doesn't sound like much, but give it a try and see how hot that is when it's not going out as light.
If the alarm output is only on for very short periods you might get away with it. In any case, high current diodes would be necessary, the run of the mill 1N4001 1A diodes won't cut it.
Posted By: davngr
Date Posted: April 18, 2008 at 5:31 PM
dualsport wrote:
The lights draw a relatively large current, so it would require large diodes to handle it. Diodes in this case will waste power (approximate watts = current draw X 0.7V) so they'll get hot if the lights are on for any extended time. High beams of 110W will draw over 9A, so the diode will have will have to dissipate over 6W. Doesn't sound like much, but give it a try and see how hot that is when it's not going out as light.
If the alarm output is only on for very short periods you might get away with it. In any case, high current diodes would be necessary, the run of the mill 1N4001 1A diodes won't cut it.
the alarm out put is being used as a trigger for a relay. it should never see the high beams or the parking lights directly. 87= batt fused power 30 = lights 85 = dioed isolated alarm output 86 = groud no sure what you understood when i said diode isolating the output. ------------- life is a comedy to think, a tragedy to feel
Posted By: dualsport
Date Posted: April 18, 2008 at 6:15 PM
If you go back and read the first post, you might see that the alarm output is being used directly for the parking lights. The relay you see there is one that he's ADDING for flashing the high beams in addition to the parking lights. Where are you getting this "dioed isolated alarm output" from? Maybe you can draw it out to make it clear what you're thinking.
Posted By: davngr
Date Posted: April 19, 2008 at 2:17 AM
lets say he is using a viper alarm. the viper alamr has a white wire that flashes the parking lights. __alarm_______ |___white light flash+__ dioede #1 -----------[relay]------- parking lights _____________| dioede #2 -----------[ relay ] ------ high beams so as you can see the diodes would never connect directly to either of the lights so all the volts and other stuff you pointed out dont really matter in this case. ------------- life is a comedy to think, a tragedy to feel
Posted By: dualsport
Date Posted: April 19, 2008 at 7:49 AM
So you're predicting it's a Viper alarm then? You can assume but you know what happens when you assume- 
Some alarms have an internal relay to directly drive the parking lights. In case you've never seen one, they do make those..
If the alarm output is actually a relay drive signal as you say, then you won't need any diodes at all. All you need is to just drive the two relays off the same line. Problem solved, if there really was one to begin with.
What would you suggest if the output from the alarm is a (+) output that is usually connected directly to the parking lights?
Posted By: davngr
Date Posted: April 19, 2008 at 9:56 AM
actualy two relays alone would solve the problem but i would still diode isolate just in case. the OP was having problems with the parking lights back feeding into his high beams because he failed to isolate the wire at the split. and evryone that posted answers failed to mention this including your self. what your talking about with the *assuming* is non sense clearly the viper alarm was used as an example. please we are both here give our honest opinion on how to help people who ask.
-------------
life is a comedy to think, a tragedy to feel
Posted By: davngr
Date Posted: April 19, 2008 at 10:02 AM
davngr wrote:
actualy two relays alone would solve the problem but i would still diode isolate just in case. the OP was having problems with the parking lights back feeding into his high beams because he failed to isolate the wire at the split. and evryone that posted answers failed to mention this including your self. what your talking about with the *assuming* is non sense clearly the viper alarm was used as an example. please we are both here give our honest opinion on how to help people who ask.
i re read your post and you did offer the second relay, i had misstaken your post with another poster. ------------- life is a comedy to think, a tragedy to feel
Posted By: dualsport
Date Posted: April 19, 2008 at 12:12 PM
Well, I guess two pages for hooking up a parking light relay should be enough -  If the OP is still around he should have enough to figure it out now.
|