relay diagram planning advice needed

hello.

i'm working on removing key cylinders for my doors (completed) and ignition.

i already have a keyless entry alarm system that i had to learn to install myself.  my end goal is to learn about wiring basics and relays are where i'm at right now. i wired the relays to my door locks but i guess that's not enough relay work for me to remember by heart.

ANYWAYS! below is a diagram of my ignition system.  i have a diagram for the starter button (does not incorporate a connection with WHT (BAT -a).

i am left with wiring the ACCssories (I) and the ON (II) switch to a three option toggle (off, option a, option b)

how can i acheive this with the least amount of relays? thanks for any input.

[IMG]https://i272.photobucket.com/albums/jj173/defnu/IGN.jpg[/IMG]

You should be able to do it with 5 relays (one relay for each switched wire) and 9 diodes.  The diodes will prevent backfeeding from position to position.

relay coil A = WHITE/ black
relay coil B = WHITE/ blue
relay coil C = BLACK / YELLOW 
relay coil D = yellow
relay coil E =  BLACK/ white

So -

Switch Output 1 --> Diode --> relay coil A

Switch Output 2 --> Diode --> relay coil A
Switch Output 2 --> Diode --> relay coil B
Switch Output 2 --> Diode --> relay coil C
Switch Output 2 --> Diode --> relay coil D
Switch Output 2 --> Diode --> relay coil B

Switch Output 3 --> Diode --> relay coil C
Switch Output 3 --> Diode --> relay coil E

Then you would just need to make sure the correct output is wired to the correct battery source.

KPierson wrote:

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You should be able to do it with 5 relays (one relay for each switched wire) and 9 diodes.  The diodes will prevent backfeeding from position to position.

relay coil A = WHITE/ black
relay coil B = WHITE/ blue
relay coil C = BLACK / YELLOW 
relay coil D = yellow
relay coil E =  BLACK/ white

So -

Switch Output 1 --> Diode --> relay coil A

Switch Output 2 --> Diode --> relay coil A
Switch Output 2 --> Diode --> relay coil B
Switch Output 2 --> Diode --> relay coil C
Switch Output 2 --> Diode --> relay coil D
Switch Output 2 --> Diode --> relay coil B

Switch Output 3 --> Diode --> relay coil C
Switch Output 3 --> Diode --> relay coil E

Then you would just need to make sure the correct output is wired to the correct battery source.

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nice, thanks! i've never worked with diodes but i'm going to look that up.  is there some kind of rating i should look for? i'll be reading up regardless, thanks much again!

hopefully this will work. thanks for the conformation. 

i'm also in the market for a single toggle switch that can handle both "ACC" and "ON."  i'm just not sure what the tabs for wire mounting would look like.  would this switch be called a dpdt?

also, what websites are good for relays and switches? i'm in elk grove california and there is not anything local with a reasonable price.  the only thing radioshack had in stock were spst relays for $7.00 plus tax (CAlifornia) a piece!? i remember getting them for less than $5 from autozone and those came with pigtail harness' for the relay AND were spdt!

lol, i also don't know if thats the correct way to place the fuse or the correct fuse....im such a noob!

i did try my best to write out a clean diagram though.

yeah, i'm having trouble finding a single switch that does this for me.

here's a link to my build thread https://www.honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=2261397.  ignore the dates, lol. our economy is effecting me hard too! lol.  the car is a 1988 honda crx (ef7)

thanks for the diode and relay information. 

That circuit is wrong,  sorry I'm baby sitting my 9 and 11 year old grandchildren and I haven't had time to look properly.

Your white black and white battery feeds should be fused somewhere, either at the battery or the engine bay fusebox adjacent to the engine bay rear bulkhead. These  factory fuses should be at least 30 amps each.

Now this:- Ground to first combi switch, first position,  thin black cable to 85 and WHITE/ black from battery to 86 and 30, output to WHITE/ red from 87.

Second position, thin black to 85 on three relays, white batt to 86 and 30 and ouputs (87) to BLACK / YELLOW, blue /white and yellow.

Starter button thin black to ground, output to another relay, 85 again, battery white to 86 and 30, BLACK/ white starter output from 87. This will put much less current on your switches.

Now here's the important part:- Before you start, some of these circuits e.g.   ACC, and blue/white , will power down during the start (AKA cranking)  cycle. Check.  You will need a small 3 or 4 (you will probably only get a 4 pole) relay or 3 small case low currrent (under 5 amps). Output from starter switch to relay(s) 85, white ignition to 86, those thin blacks to the acc and 2 ignitions, NOT BLACK/ yellow  or yellow in to 30 and out to 87. This will dump them during the start cycle. VERY IMPORTANT. Diodes please across every relay, between 85 and 86 diode bands towards 86.

defnu] wrote:

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defnu] wrote:

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hopefully this will work. thanks for the conformation. 

i'm also in the market for a single toggle switch that can handle both "ACC" and "ON."  i'm just not sure what the tabs for wire mounting would look like.  would this switch be called a dpdt?

also, what websites are good for relays and switches? i'm in elk grove california and there is not anything local with a reasonable price.  the only thing radioshack had in stock were spst relays for $7.00 plus tax (CAlifornia) a piece!? i remember getting them for less than $5 from autozone and those came with pigtail harness' for the relay AND were spdt!

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so this circuit would not work if i want the previous switches to shut off when the starter button is pushed down?  i wanted to replicate the oem action with the ignition switch using the two toggle switches and a single push start switch.

so far, what i'm reading from your reply is to reverse my grounds on the relays to 85 and place the diodes on each relay?

all of the wires i'm working with already has an oem location for the fuses.

dualsport wrote:

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You might not want to permanently connect the WHT/BLK and BLU/WHT wires as you show in your diagram. Without having them separated by relays, you can't open them up as required for the OFF position.
You can run set it up so that the upper left relay connects the WHT/BLK to WHT/RED in ACC or ON position, and the next relay connects WHT/BLK to BLU/WHT when in ON position. (Don't connect WHT/BLK and BLU/WHT as you were planning)

Use diodes to isolate the feeds into the relay controls so they energize only when needed:
RELAY #1 would be connected to the ACC control, and #2 connected to the ON switch control, but add a diode between the two relay coil inputs with the stripe towards relay #1, so that the ON control will turn on both relays, but the ACC control will only turn on the first relay, with the diode blocking the second one from coming on.

You can work out something similar for the other connections.

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so the way you're explaining it makes sense....i would have to add one more relay though right? for the yellow wire? regardless, i'll be working on another diagram to correct all my other mistakes.