Printer Friendly Forum Posts - remote start using relays

https://www.the12volt.com/relays/page5.asp#remst

i saw this page and how to make your car remote start

what i want to know what is the operating instructions on using this step by step from starting the car to turning it off

also it says to accessory 1 and 2 does that mean? the accessory wires on the car alarm? (im confused from the acc wire which supplys 12v at start up)

and lastly is says to vehicle side ignition 1 and yo key side ignition one im assuming that i have to cut the wire to ignition and attach those wires there?

https://www.the12volt.com/relays/page5.asp#remst

Some vehicles require that 2 accessory wires go positive to allow Air Conditioner and defrost functions become active when remote started. If your vehicle only has one Acc wire, leave the second one open. Yes you will have to cut the ignition wire.

The unit requires a ground pulse to disengage. I would HIGHLY recomend that you use an 11th relay that will convert the foot brake positive output to a negative for this function. This will kill the motor if someone gets in it and tries to put it in gear to drive off.

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Let's Go Brandon Brown. Congratulations on your first Xfinity Series Win. LGBFJB

so to use it you have to switch on the the engage wire and as soon as it starts switch on the disenegage wire and now the car is running

Or Is it... yOu switch on the the engage wire and now the car is running and to turn off the car you switch on the disengage wire?

Also the accessory wires are 12v + once the relays have been switched on (it gives out electricity rather than take it)

Also i dont understand your footbrake safty feature

And on the relay page it says the diodes are not pictured where wouls i place them

On any Store Bought Remote Start unit, there is a safety feature that kills the engine if the brake pedal is pressed before the key is turned on. This prevents a possible thief from putting the vehicle in gear. yOu switch on the the engage wire and now the car is running and to turn off the car you switch on the disengage wire. When the unit starts the car, there is power on the ignition wire and both accessory wires.

You will have to use a relay to convert the positive output of your brake switch to a negative input for the remote start disengage wire. Wire the relay as follows. Ground terminals 30 and 85. 86 connects to the wire of your brake switch that has 12 volts on it only when the brake pedal is depressed. 87 connects to the wire labeled negative trigger to deavtivate wire.

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Let's Go Brandon Brown. Congratulations on your first Xfinity Series Win. LGBFJB

last question

it says the diodes accross the coils are not shown

where should the diodes be

and

what polarity should the diodes be in

Diodes go between terminals 85 and 86. The banded end of the diode goes on the positive wire. When I install a diode on a relay, I bend the legs to the appropriate width, just outside of the terminals. Solder the diode leg as close to the base of the terminal as possible. This will allow you to still place a connector onto the terminal.

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Let's Go Brandon Brown. Congratulations on your first Xfinity Series Win. LGBFJB

With the price of purpose built remote start systems there is NO way you should build a relay only version. Spend the $50 and buy a decent unit that has tach learning and all the other features that make these systems so nice. By the time you buy the relays, buy the harnesses, and spend hours wiring it all up you will wish you just bought a remote start!

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Kevin Pierson

I'm with Kevin on this one especially from the tone of your questions and the fact that Mr. I needs his Crystal Ball returned because you haven't told us your make, model and year of car, there are also all sorts of safety issues going on here, such as type of transmission, transponder by-pass etc. Suggest you have the store bought unit professionally installed.

Mr I you've copied my diode solder method, as I said looking at Kevins install recently, it's amazing how many similarities in our methods, tools etc.

the thing is that i all ready have a clifford 100 g4 and cliffords intelistart is about 100 pounds also wiring does not seem that bad all i have to do is wire the relays like they are in the diagram and that is not hard and i need to ccut two wires and attach them to my relays and attach the engage wires to my clifford

If you already have an alarm with a AUX output you can buy any brand of remote start that has an activation input - I would think you could get one for much less then 100 pounds.

How are you going to control crank time? That setup requires a "manual" crank ie you have to hold the output active until the car start, then shut the output off or the starter will continue to crank. This relay setup has numerous shortcomings.....

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Kevin Pierson

could you send me a link to a remote start box which has no remote it works by being pluged into an assory wire in a clifford alarm

I would look in to a Boa 165b

They are made by DEI and have a (-) activation input. There is one on Ebay now for $30US.

They come with a remote which has TERRIBLE range, but you can basically throw the remote away as you will be using your AUX output to trigger the 165b to start the car. I have had a Boa unit on one of my cars for years now and the brain is solid, as long as you are less then 10' from the car!

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Kevin Pierson

I'm really not happy with this post, just glad we all have liability protection, the C100 has two aux outputs,grey/purple and grey/blue, either can be made to work as the * button, just go to level 4 on user programming. Except that fkuk hasn't told us anything about his car and whether it's auto or manual. DEI do an add- on in the UK that could be used although an Intellistart would still be the simplest best chance, wire up, plug and play, especially with a manual transmission. Re that liability Clause, Chris you're 3,000 miles away, the rest further, I'm in the bloody UK bet you only a few miles from this guy.

howie ll wrote:

I'm really not happy with this post, just glad we all have liability protection, the C100 has two aux outputs,grey/purple and grey/blue, either can be made to work as the * button, just go to level 4 on user programming. Except that fkuk hasn't told us anything about his car and whether it's auto or manual. DEI do an add- on in the UK that could be used although an Intellistart would still be the simplest best chance, wire up, plug and play, especially with a manual transmission. Re that liability Clause, Chris you're 3,000 miles away, the rest further, I'm in the bloody UK bet you only a few miles from this guy.

what are you trying to say?

From your questions, you know nothing about installations, safety factors, crank time etc etc. You will probably spend more on the relays than an R/S unit costs me trade, plus a lot of time, also if your car is German, built to UK spec, ie BMW, Mercedes, VAG Vauxhall etc, it will have a factory transponder immobiliser. ANY car built for sale in Europe from 01/01/97 has one. Do you know how to by-pass it? What if your car is manual, you leave it in gear facing downhill etc. etc.? You still haven't read the site rules where it asks you to state make model and year of car.

As an average London area example, depending on vehicle, the add-on price including labour would be around £200. I quote from £150. No dealer here would be allowed to sell you one over the counter.

im asking general stuff because at this moment i dont have a car so i could buy any car

Also im glad i don t live near you, bringing up downy assed techinicallitys

If the alarm you currently have isn't even installed then sell it and buy what you need - that will ultimately be the easiest thing to do.

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Kevin Pierson

Would have saved us all some time and effort if you'd have said that first. Kevin is spot on, get rid of the Con 100 which is probably 5-10 years old and start again, then PM me for installation, I'm saying this because I've seen 2 blatant adverts in the posts this week.

what people telling me what item is best to get is an advert i dont think so, also your telling me to get a prebuilt alram too so your backing up the so called adverts

Two things; most of the people who replied to your post are full time highly expereinced pros. Any advice you were given was unbiased based on our own experience. No one tried to sell you a particular product, you mentioned a Con 100 and I suggested a reliable known quality product that would work most easily with this. In fact adverts don't last on this site; posted adverts are shut down within 2 days and the posters are barred. To take it a stage further there are only 2 R/S type products available in the UK, both from the same manufacturer that will work, yes there's a lot of flea-bay product around, it's garbage and it won't work if at all. So please get away from your ignorance based attitude.