Trunk Pop, 92 Honda Civic Hatchback

okay so i wired up an actuator to a 92 honda civic hatchback and once it opens the hatch window, i cant close it. i found that if i open then close the actuator it will allow me to close the hatch window. i made a diagram and would like you guy's opinion on it. when i wired it up and connected it to the battery, it started sparking. i couldnt spot any problems with the diagram. any help is appreciated.

RELAY 1:

87: 12v (+)
87a: Ground (-)
30: To actuator wire 1 & pin 86 of Relay 3
86: To alarm trunk pop (-)
85: 12v (+)

RELAY 2:

87: 12v (+)
87a: Ground (-)
30: To actuator wire 2
86: 12v (+)
85: To Relay 3 pin 30

RELAY 3:

87: 12v (+)
87a: Ground (-)
30: To Relay 2 pin 85
86: To actuator wire 1 & pin 30 of Relay 1
85: Ground (-)

Alarm trunk pop to 85.
Constant 12v+ to 86 and 87 green wire on actuator to 30
Blue wire on actuator to ground.
That's it.

please read my post again. i need it to open then close the trunk because the hatch cant close unless i do that. thanks

basically i need the actuator to be in he closed position until the alarm triggers the actuator to open. can anyone help me out with this?

Are you simply trying to release it or lock and unlock it?
Sorry, if you're right you're using a strut rather than a lock motor, wire as follows.
If you are simply releasing, then my first post was correct.
Use a single pole changeover switch, common grounded as a back up, wire as follows.
Trunk output from alarm and switch one side, diode* each with the bands toward switch and alarm to 85
Constant 12v+ to 86 and 87 of both relays, fuse rated at the rating of your actuator up to 20amps.
30 from 1st. relay to to "up" motor wire of actuator.
Switch other side and ANOTHER AUX output from alarm to 85 of second relay dioded* as before,
30 to "down" motor wire of actuator and ground BOTH 87a terminals.
* = 1N4004 diodes. No need for more than two relays.

is there any way i could do this with only one output from the alarm? also, is there any way to do it without diodes? i have like 5 relays sitting around so i wouldnt mind using them all. i basically need this setup to pulse open then pulse or latch closed. thanks for all the help

This is getting nowhere, my first post was correct, you can't pop it and then think it's going to grab the catch all on its own with a gravity assist, think it through! No trunk pop does what you want it to do. End of story*
*With the exception of some BMW, Mercedes Cads. and Voyagers.

Ideally you should be using a trunk pop solenoid. However in most cases an actuator like you are using is easier to mount. What u need simply is a spring that will pull the actuator back into position. get my drift.

and you really only need one relay.

trunk release (-) output from alarm to 85

12V+ constant(fused 30amp) to 87 and 86

30 to one of your actuator wires. The other actuator wire simply goes to ground. (dont ground to trunk lid)

if you put 30 to the green wire of the actuator it will pull  and to blue will push. get it

  the SPRING is the answer. Like a carbuerator return spring that you can get at any auto parts store. buy a few different ones and experiment with the lenghts and tension to get it perfect. ok

I'm still not sure what our friend is trying to achieve,I've gone the door lock actuator rather than trunk-specific solenoid on a couple of occasions, some years ago on Mk ll Golfs and Golf Cabriolets, 1 relay, no return springs and no problems. You are correct in saying don't ground to trunk lid unless there's an existing grounding cable, e.g. lights, hot window etc. The pressure of closing the roof will return the door lock actuator to its original position.
By the way I wonder how many of these problems would be eliminated by testing everything physically in situ with the trunk lid/hatch open and the lock catch latched over before running any wiring, i.e. testing.