relay diagram for alarm
Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Relays
Forum Discription: Relay Diagrams, SPDT Relays, SPST Relays, DPDT Relays, Latching Relays, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=127534
Printed Date: May 05, 2025 at 3:07 AM
Topic: relay diagram for alarm
Posted By: jgw01
Subject: relay diagram for alarm
Date Posted: June 03, 2011 at 2:06 PM
Hello,
I am installing a car alarm and i'm having trouble understanding the relay for starter kill, here is the wiring diagram.
Its the relay in the red box. The numbers look nothing like the relay supllied. The supplied relay is 5 pin 30,85,86,87,87a. Can anyone make sense of what it is asking me to do? I have very basic knowledge of relays.
Thank you
Replies:
Posted By: jgw01
Date Posted: June 03, 2011 at 2:10 PM
sorry hope this is clearer
Posted By: KPierson
Date Posted: June 03, 2011 at 2:35 PM
Thats not a starter kill - that is an ignition kill. Same principal, but they are showing you cutting power to the coil, thus preventing ignition.
The more acceptable approach is to interrupt the starter wire coming from the keyswitch to the starter solenoid.
Make sure you connect the + side of the relay to switched ignition NOT constant 12vdc.
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Kevin Pierson
Posted By: jgw01
Date Posted: June 03, 2011 at 3:04 PM
Thank you for your reply, sorry but my relay knowledge is limited what numbers do I connect each wire to.
Thank you
Posted By: jgw01
Date Posted: June 03, 2011 at 4:39 PM
so would the starter go to 30 and 87a with arming out to 85. Is that it or relay need ground too?
Thanks
Posted By: KPierson
Date Posted: June 03, 2011 at 4:42 PM
Yes, your pin numbers are correct. I would assume the "arming output" is the ground, connect it to 85. 86 will connect to switched ignition. 30 and 87A will be your starter wires.
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Kevin Pierson
Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: June 03, 2011 at 5:06 PM
One look at that diagram says bin it, it's a POS.
It's also telling you to cut the ignition which is a real no-no.
It should be the starter, this is the correct diagram relay_starter_cut.bmp------------- Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.
Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: June 03, 2011 at 5:08 PM
Sorry Kevin, didn't see your post, that unit's a Fleabay Chinese piece of junk. Can you even see how it gets it's tach sense? Please don't say oil pressure switch.
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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.
Posted By: jgw01
Date Posted: June 03, 2011 at 5:38 PM
Thank you very much for your help, i now have the confidence to go ahead.
It has no tach sense or anything else to compensate. The remote start will not used anyway. It has no use whatsoever in the south east of England where the temperature is rarely below freezing or above 80oc.
Thanks again.
Posted By: jgw01
Date Posted: June 03, 2011 at 5:41 PM
Also I would never have used the ignition wire. If the relay had failed while driving my car would've been a mess.
Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: June 03, 2011 at 5:46 PM
Funnily enough I'm in Borehamwood, but the South Coast got even more snow than London this winter, I use a remote start all the time, but a proper brand, not the rubbish you're trying to install, I bet it won't even work in ANY aspect.
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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.
Posted By: jgw01
Date Posted: June 03, 2011 at 6:00 PM
Im not installing it for the remote start, its not really for the alarm either, just the keyless entry. My car is a 96 Accord, there is no commercial immobiliser bypass for it. Only option would be to hide a spare near ignition. (A spare key that I don't have).
Before you ask why I need the ignition kill, well I don't, but I am a mechanic who is trying to learn the electronics of cars, so its more of a learning thing to be honest.
I'm in Crawley (on the better side of London).
Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: June 03, 2011 at 6:08 PM
I think you're missing my point, you will have a frustrating time trying to make it work. N.B. There are a few by-passes available here for your Honda, but what's wrong with pulling the Honda badge on your key and removing the RFI chip?
My recommendation would be to junk that POS, install a Clifford 650 Mkll
with Intellistart V and have an easy time of it. If no remote start get a Viper 1002, it will work a treat.
A couple of pointers;
remove the gauges and pick up door trigger and trunk (boot) trigger from the NEG. switched sides of the warning lights and whilst you've got the gauges out, see if you get the alarm brain (brain? that's an oxymoron in this case) behind the instruments, much harder to get at by a villain.
Ref: Crawley and this last winter, how long was Gatwick closed for?
-------------
Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.
Posted By: jgw01
Date Posted: June 03, 2011 at 6:33 PM
Taking apart the key is never wise when its the only one. The alarm is installed already its just not all hooked up. The alarm is behind cigarette lighter (you can see it with radio removed but not reach it). It had a factory alarm in the boot so I used the existing wires by pulling them back through to the front. The keyless entry works, door trigger works, siren works, indicators flash, remote start works (with key next to ignition).
I agree the alarm is rubbish but my car is 15 years old, the worst thing about it is when the alarm is going of the "brain" makes a constant clicking noise similar to indicator clicks. I would have to hope that anyone wanting to steal my car is deaf so they cant hear the brain.
You mentioned the boot trigger, my car is cable operated i presume there is no workaround/gadget available to use this feature.
Seeing as you appear to be an expert, why did Honda install their alarms in the boot but then not bother to alarm the boot. Anyone can force open the boot and rip the alarm without it going of.
Posted By: jgw01
Date Posted: June 03, 2011 at 6:35 PM
oh and I work at Gatwick; Airport closed = day off, day off = stay at home, stay at home = no need to use car, no need to use car = no need to use remote start.
I
Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: June 04, 2011 at 1:35 AM
That's why we installed (decent) alarms over factory alarms until quite recently. Until 05, the Honda alarms never even had interior space (ultrasonic or proximity) detection.
Don't confuse boot trigger (tells you when it's been opened) with boot release. Since about 2000 as far as I know, all cars made for the US markets have a mandatory ELECTRIC (solenoid) boot release.
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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.
Posted By: jgw01
Date Posted: June 04, 2011 at 3:00 PM
You confuse me with every post. When I mentioned boot trigger I was reffering to factory alarm. When I mention boot release I was reffering to the button on the key fob that opens the boot.
Also what is link between my accord and an American car?
The Honda Accord was fully built and designed in the UK and is totally different to the US and Jap versions. So why mention America?
Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: June 04, 2011 at 3:43 PM
Sorry if I confuse you, I thought at one point you mentioned boot trigger as triggering the unlock relay, boot trigger as in door and bonnet (hood) triggers simply tell us when a boot or door or bonnet is opened.
Your car is still an Accord as was the at the time similar US model and the Rover 600.
Euro and American versions have been drifting apart since 2005.
Ref solenoid boot/hatch release, ENGLISH build CRVs have had them since the late 90s.
Don't try and lecture me on different builds, for various reasons I'm the go to car and "obscure foreign cars" that turn up in the US  ------------- Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.
Posted By: jgw01
Date Posted: June 04, 2011 at 6:00 PM
Sorry my mistake, should have re read my post, I did say boot trigger but meant boot release.
Posted By: jgw01
Date Posted: June 04, 2011 at 6:26 PM
The aerodeck version is a US copy, the sedan is 90% different, the only things the same are the standard Honda range products.
The lights are different, the dash is different, the wiring and colours are different. UK version came with immobiliser US did not. US has central locking module in door, UK is in boot. US version has lights in bumper, windows/switches are totally different, Radio, clock, Gear lever is totally different, handbrake/ center console is totally different, seats are totally different, under the bonnet everything is different, I could go on. The are two totally different cars.
From Honda site
The launch of the fifth generation also marked the first time Honda marketed a Europe-only Accord model, made in its Swindon factory in the United Kingdom. The European Accord sedan was not related directly to the CD Accords, but rather to the previous CB Accord, as it was a slightly reworked version of the Honda Ascot Innova. The Swindon-built Accord sedan was accompanied in European markets by the coupe and Aerodeck estate models imported from the U.S.. Concurrently, the British Rover Group, Honda's partner at that time, launched a model called the Rover 600, which was developed together with the European Accord sedan and which under the skin, are closely resembled.
Lecture over
Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: June 04, 2011 at 6:38 PM
OK. I standard corrected on that one, I was basing it Civic divergence about 10 years later, but ask me about Mitsubishi or Nissan!
Actually you're right, 1996-200 Civics, 5 door, UK/France build, 3 door differed just as you described, was Japanese build, the coupé was US built and the estate was I believe French, except...the wiring colours which is relevant to this forum were all the same.
P.S. Immobilisers were mandatory on Europeans cars from 1st. Jan. 97, many German manufacturers were installing them from 93, although the Japanese in Europe started about 96..one way to spot a grey import.
The US market only made it optional although most US vehicles now have them about from 02.
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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.
Posted By: jgw01
Date Posted: June 05, 2011 at 1:39 PM
That explains the immobiliser issue. Its not so much the wire colours, its a manual telling me to look for a wire to left of fuse box when its in the center of steering column. My voltmeter died and the only way I can test a wire is to see what fuse I blow.
The worst part of installing the alarm was the indicators which had two wires and required a few diodes.
Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: June 05, 2011 at 3:41 PM
Your ignition wire is BLACK / YELLOW, starter BLACK/ white.
Got a Snap-On bulb test light? You really don't need a DMM for a car of that age.
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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.
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