latching relay 12v trigger

Just a quick FYI - I'm not new to this forum, I have been inactive for a while and I guess since I have been for a while, my username isn't active anymore so I had to create a new one. It used to be RichB. Anyways.

What I am trying to accomplish is this:
I have a 2013 Hyundai Sonata with a factory alarm/keyless/remote start. The factory "siren" is just a rinky dinky Hyundai small horn. I already swapped those out with some horns from a Ford truck so they are actually loud. What I want to do is actually make the pulsed 12v output that makes the horn honk-honk-honk, etc to a constant 12v and hook up an alarm siren to that so it's a real alarm siren with all the different tones. It's a simple 12V DEI 6-tone alarm.

I wired up this relay configuration today:


The issue I am having is that I don't want to have to install a switch in between the ground to break it. Once the alarm is activated, the output from the relay is getting 12v and once the alarm is deactivated the factory lights stop flashing but that wire on the relay is still getting 12v unless I disconnect it from 12v or ground.

Is there a way to wire in another relay that will somehow break that ground so I don't have to do anything manually? I'm fairly familiar with relays but this one has got me baffled because I've actually never done this before!

Pleae help!

i know there is also this diagram



except the input on the left relay is negative, I need the input to be positive so what would I need to switch on these 2 relays?

after a little more research. i think this is what i need to do. basically use a 3rd relay to convert the positive trigger into negative and then use the first 2 relays and go from there. i'll give it a shot tomorrow but if anyone knows of anything else to use less relays or other alternatives, please let me know

Your last diagram will create a latch, but you only need one relay to create a latch with a postive pulse and a second relay to break the latch with either a positive or negative pulse. I'll draw up a diagram today and post it here when I finish.

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the12volt • Support the12volt.com

what I found out is this.

right now i have this setup on my car:


i have a momentary push button switch installed (hidden where only i know where it is) that when the factory alarm is going off, i can disarm it from the remote but the DEI sirens are still going off because it is still getting 12 volt so i hit the switch to break that feed from the battery. when i disarm with the remote, that factory wire does not send another 12volt pulse. it just shuts the alarm off. now unless i am missing something somewhere, i don't think what i want to accomplish can be down without a switch to break ground or 12v somewhere.

You could use the door unlock motor leg to kill the latch when you disarm it.

Unlock Motor      red      driver kick, white 56 pin plug, pin 11

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the12volt • Support the12volt.com

the12volt wrote:

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You could use the door unlock motor leg to kill the latch when you disarm it.

Unlock Motor      red      driver kick, white 56 pin plug, pin 11

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where would i connect that to on my relays?

the12volt wrote:

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the12volt • Support the12volt.com

the12volt wrote:

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the12volt wrote:

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i'm not sure where you got the wiring info from but that's not right. the wiring for a 2013 sonata SE 2.4 w/ dimension sound/navigation is:

Driver Mtr Unlock     GRAY (REV) AT MOTOR IN DOOR
Driver Mtr Lock WHITE (REV) AT MOTOR IN DOOR
Pas Mtr Unlock PINK/BLACK     (REV) AT MOTOR IN DOOR
Pas Mtr Lock BROWN / ORANGE     (REV) AT MOTOR IN DOOR

none of these are positive/12v so i don't think i can use the wires

beachbum561fla wrote:

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i'm not sure where you got the wiring info from but that's not right. the wiring for a 2013 sonata SE 2.4 w/ dimension sound/navigation is:

Driver Mtr Unlock     GRAY          (REV)          AT MOTOR IN DOOR          
Driver Mtr Lock          WHITE          (REV)          AT MOTOR IN DOOR          
Pas Mtr Unlock          PINK/BLACK     (REV)          AT MOTOR IN DOOR          
Pas Mtr Lock          BROWN / ORANGE     (REV)          AT MOTOR IN DOOR

none of these are positive/12v so i don't think i can use the wires

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Each motor unlock wire will show 12V+ during unlock and ground during lock. You can tie into either one (driver or passenger) to kill the latch in my diagram above.

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the12volt • Support the12volt.com

Ah. I really don't want to have to go in the driver's door. Maybe I'll see if I can find the wire somewhere else.

Do you know if there is any type of aftermarket add-on that I could use to tap in to act as a 'wireless' method to break either 12v or ground?

the12volt wrote:

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the12volt wrote:

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is there a way to re-do this so i can use a negative input to kill the latch? i just don't want to have to run a wire into the door and i could just use the unlock wire to kill the latch (if possible)

Yes. Are you wanting to use a positive pulse to create the latch and a negative pulse to kill the latch? Or are you wanting to use a negative pulse for both? Let me know and I'll draw another diagram.

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the12volt wrote:

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Yes. Are you wanting to use a positive pulse to create the latch and a negative pulse to kill the latch? Or are you wanting to use a negative pulse for both? Let me know and I'll draw another diagram.

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I would like to use a positive to create the latch and a negative to kill the latch. That way when I hit unlock on my factory remote, it stops the additional sirens and I don't need a hidden switch on the exterior of the car to break ground.

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thanks a bunch. i will give it a shot tomorrow! i'll let you know the results!

the12volt wrote:

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Yes. Are you wanting to use a positive pulse to create the latch and a negative pulse to kill the latch? Or are you wanting to use a negative pulse for both? Let me know and I'll draw another diagram.

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thanks so much for all your help. i actually ended up doing the positive latch to kill the circuit. i was able to find the negative unlock wire, but it only gets a negative pulse when activated by the switch on the DOOR, not my keyless keyfob. i tried using the dome supervision as well since it's (-) but once the doors are unlocked and the dome comes on, it continues sending a negative pulse until the doors are closed and i hit lock. i knew that wouldn't work either. so i just went ahead and ran a wire from the Red oem wire in the DKP to the input on the relay and it worked 100%!

So now if the alarm goes off, i can hit my panic button to stop the factory horns and i can hit unlock to stop the DEI sirens. Eliminated the momentary switch that was hidden.

Thanks again for all the help!

You're welcome. Happy to hear it all worked out for you.

Cheers!

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