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2006 Camry LE 2.4L 4-cyl Remote Start Install Problems

Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Relays
Forum Discription: Relay Diagrams, SPDT Relays, SPST Relays, DPDT Relays, Latching Relays, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=145115
Printed Date: March 28, 2024 at 5:19 AM


Topic: 2006 Camry LE 2.4L 4-cyl Remote Start Install Problems

Posted By: tripod1855
Subject: 2006 Camry LE 2.4L 4-cyl Remote Start Install Problems
Date Posted: December 28, 2018 at 11:42 PM

Let me first say that I have spent many, many hours of many days researching these two issues, and it seems that no one has a response anywhere that matches what I'm looking for.
I'm installing a Crimestopper RS7-G5 Remote Starter in my 2006 Toyota Camry LE 2.4 Liter 4-Cyl. I planned out the install, read everything in advance, watched videos, etc.; and I'm almost done wiring everything except for the following issues that I cannot seem to find any information on:

1. TRUNK RELEASE: I've located the vehicle's Trunk Release Wire that is provided in various wiring diagrams (driver's kick panel, WHITE/BLUE wire in center of white harness). I also have the 5-pin SPDT Relay that I need to connect the RS unit. However, all of the Trunk Release Relay diagrams that I have located show me how to connect the wires if I have a "Neg (-) Trunk Pop Output", a "Pos (+) Trunk Pop Output", or a "Reverse Polarity Trunk Pop Release". The problem is that I have no idea what configuration my vehicle is, so I don't know which diagram to use. Some things I've seen say it might be a "Neg (-) Trunk Release Output", another source makes me think it might be a "Reverse Polarity Trunk Release". I can't find anything that tells me definitively what my exact year/model vehicle's configuration is.
WIth regards to Connecting the Trunk Release Wire to the Relay (since I've reviewed all of the configurations many times already): If it's a (+) or (-) configuration, I would just splice the WHITE/BLUE Trunk Release Wire to the Relay's 30-Pin Wire. However, if it turns out that it's a "Reverse Polarity Trunk Release", I would have to cut the WHITE/BLUE Trunk Release Wire and then connect the "Motor side of Trunk Release Wire" to the Relay's 30-Pin Wire, and then connect the "Switch side of Trunk Release Wire" to the Relay's 87A-Pin Wire. My question would then be: What is the "Motor side" and what is the "Switch Side"? Is the "Switch Side" the side of the wire that is still connected to the white harness in the kick panel? (the other side obviously then being the "Motor side"?). Does it matter where this WHITE/BLUE Trunk Release Wire is cut? It looks like it goes under the molding on the bottom of the door frame towards the trunk, so would I cut it there? Or would I cut it where it's connected to the harness (as mentioned above)?

2. Everything specifically mentions "12 volt constant": This might be a really stupid question, but everything I've seen everywhere specifically mentions connecting various wires to a +12 volt Constant; however, my vehicle's window sticker, which I still have, says that it is a "DOHC 16V VVT-i SFI Engine". And, moreover, when I tested all of the other wires (that I've connected so far) with a multimeter, they all tested approximately 18 to 19 Volts!! My first question is: Is this normal?? My next question is: Does this have any effect on how I'm wiring the Remote Starter, or do I connect the wires as I normally would (as if they had tested approximately 12 Volts with the multimeter)?

3. Tachometer Wire Not Where it's Supposed To Be: Everything I've seen says that the ORANGE/BLACK Tachometer Wire for my particular model is supposed to be in the Data Port Harness near the Steering Column. However, I've located this harness and matched all of the other wires in it... but, there's no ORANGE/BLACK Tachometer Wire. I have noticed several other ORANGE/BLACK wires in the vicinity that look just like the pictures I've seen of the Tachometer Wire. Is it worth testing these, or is it most likely at the ECU behind the Glove Box (as is the stated location for the 6-Cylinder Models of the 2006 Camry, according to Bulldog Security Wiring Diagram Notes).

The only other question that I have is, How do I know if I'm connecting to a "Fused Source", for the wires that say this? I'm not as concerned about this because if it says I connect "the RED WIRE" from the unit to the "WHITE/RED WIRE" located at the Ignition Harness, and I did exactly that after testing the wire at the Ignition Harness, I am assuming they are telling me the location of a "Fused Source". Otherwise, why would they tell me to find it there if that's not where I'm supposed to connect it? If my logic here is flawed, and there is an easy way to tell if it's a "Fused Source", please let me know.

That's about all I need to know to finish this up, so if anyone knows the 2006 Camry LE 2.4L 4-Cyl really well and can help me with these last few issues I'm having, I would greatly appreciate it. I'd really liked to wrap this up, but I prefer to "know" for sure what I'm doing before I do it... I'd rather not destroy my vehicle nor the Remote Starter, if I can help it. Thanks very much in advance for your help!!



Replies:

Posted By: geepherder
Date Posted: December 29, 2018 at 10:05 AM
1. See if this wire rests at ground. Then make sure it goes to 12 volts when you trigger it. If this checks out, cut this wire. Connect 30 to the end that runs to the trunk. 87a goes to the other side and 87 goes to a 12 volt source. Just cut it wherever it's convenient to you.

If it rests at positive and goes to ground when it's triggered, connect 30 and 87a the same, just put 87 to ground.

2. It's likely your meter is not accurate. I'd recommend verifying with another meter, but you can also try replacing the meter's battery first. 16v signifies that the engine has 16 valves and has nothing to do with voltage.

Even if your alternator was putting out a significantly high voltage, I don't think your car battery would stay that high.

3. https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=46670
This is listed for 2005 but it's likely the same.

All factory interior wiring is likely fused (under the hood at the very least). The wire that runs from the battery to the starter might not be fused, and the wire from the alternator to the battery may or may not be fused.

You know a source is fused for sure if you fuse it yourself at the connection point. This is especially recommended when you are connecting to a constant source.

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My ex once told me I have a perfect face for radio.




Posted By: tripod1855
Date Posted: December 29, 2018 at 10:04 PM
Geepherder,
First off, I want to thank you for your reply to my questions... based on your response, I was able to definitively determine two things (which led to a few follow-up questions that you may be able to help me with)...
The first thing I determined is that I've been using a malfunctioning multimeter (for who knows how many months now). As you suggested, I changed out the battery and then retested the Remote Starter connection wires, which then displayed about 12.6 volts.
Second, I determined that my trunk release configuration is a Negative (-) Trigger Configuration (based on the fact that it was rested at "ground"). So, I wired the relay based on what you had described (which matched the 5-wire Trunk Release (Neg Output) Relay diagram I had seen previously).
So, my first follow-up question, is with regards to what you had said about the test... you had said that it would go to 12 volts when I triggered the Trunk Release wire with the Factory Keyless Entry button, but I believe it only jumped up a few volts (maybe 2 or 3). It was enough to let me know it was the right wire, but I was unsure what this meant in the grand scheme of things. If you could provide a little insight, that would be appreciated.
My next question is regarding what I had read somewhere previously (when I was researching the first questions I posted)... I read that the GREEN/WHITE Wire (in "DKP", Driver Kick Panel) that is located just below the WHITE/BLUE (Trunk Release) Wire is the "Trunk Keysense Wire", and if I were to pulse this wire at the same time as the WHITE/BLUE Trunk Release Wire, it would allow me to "pop the trunk without having to first disarm the factory alarm". Can you explain this to me (how I wire this with what I've already done with the Trunk Release Relay)? This is confusing to me, particularly because I don't think my version of the Camry even has a "factory alarm"!! (but the GREEN/WHITE wire is definitely there). This also leads me to my next question...
Regarding the Immobilizer Bypass (DEI 556u) Installation... Finding the "Trunk Keysense Wire" in the DKP (mentioned above) got me thinking, so I started looking for the BLUE (-) Keysense Wire at the Ignition Switch Harness (as is listed in the Bulldog Security Wiring Diagram), and I found that wire as well! I did not think my vehicle had one because it doesn't have a "factory alarm". It only has an anti-theft transponder system. So, before I found these "Keysense Wires", I wasn't using the PINK (+) (Ignition Input/Latching Input), nor the GREEN (-) (Keysense Input) Wires from the Bypass Unit, because I didn't think my vehicle had any use for them. However, now I'm not so sure... Can you please provide some insight with this?? As long as it's not going to do any harm, I could just wire the Ignition Input and Keysense Wire at the Ign Harness to the Bypass Module. But, I would have no idea how to incorporate the Trunk Keysense Wire into all of this.
Dome Supervision... This one isn't a big deal to me, but if it's easy enough to do, I'd rather just do it while I have the entire dash taken apart...
I'm using the RS unit's BROWN (-) AUX OUTPUT Wire for the "Trunk Pop" (that I wired as described above). The instructions say that "this output is programmable for Trunk Pop OR Domelight Illumination"... So, my question is, can't I have both? I'm guessing I can't because this wire is programmable. Programmable Option #1 says, "30 second dome light illumination with unlock". But right now, I have it wired for Programmable Option #4, which is "Press and Hold for 2 seconds for Trunk Pop". If there is a way to do both, that would be great (maybe using the ORANGE (-) AUX 2 OUTPUT (Momentary)?? It looks like maybe one of the 76 Relay Diagrams on this site might work, but I wouldn't know what to use.

Sorry for all of these follow-up questions, but you were a huge help already... I promise though... lol... these are the only other questions I have!!




Posted By: geepherder
Date Posted: December 30, 2018 at 12:05 AM
Since it's just a pulse, it's probably too quick for your meter to accurately measure. You can try an old analog meter if you have one (more precise for measuring transients). My multimeter just says "OL" when this happens because it's too fast.

Try this: Sit in the driver's seat and make sure all doors are closed completely. Press the lock button on your factory fob. Wait 60 seconds or more. Manually unlock the driver's door and open it. If the horn starts blaring, then you indeed have a factory alarm. If it doesn't, you can disregard the keysense connections.

I don't know how much current your auxiliary output wires can handle. If it's like DEI, you probably shouldn't use these wires to trigger more than one standard automotive relay. You could possibly use a DPDT relay instead. This would give you two sets of contacts (one for trunk release, one for keysense). Or you could do this: https://www.the12volt.com/relays/relaydiagram46.html and use the output to trigger two separate relays.

You could use a couple diodes from the GWR wire to both the keysense wire and the 556u. Forget the trunk keysense.

I don't think domelight supervision is all that important. The domelight will come on when you open the door. If there is no factory alarm, you could always switch trunk release to AUX2 if you want (same diagram).

If you have more questions, just ask.

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My ex once told me I have a perfect face for radio.




Posted By: tripod1855
Date Posted: January 05, 2019 at 5:05 PM
Geepherder, thanks again for your reply to my last post... it's been freezing and wet where I live, so I've only been able to work on this for a few hours at a time on the days where it's mostly dry weather. Anyway, I've now completed all the wiring (without regard for the keysense wires), and I attempted to start the car, first with the key (with hood up, so I could utilize "Tach-finder" mode to find a Tach Source)... and I had the following results:
Start With Key:
Upon the first attempt, it sounded like it was about to turn over, then it didn't. Every attempt after that, it sounded like ignition was engaging but that it wasn't cranking, if that makes sense. The first attempt was the only time that it sounded like a normal start (without it actually starting).
Additional Related Info:
(a) I was able to program all the options fine (getting all honks/light flashes as expected), and when I tried all other functions with the new R/S transmitters, everything else worked flawlessly (door lock/unlock, trunk pop, honks/flashes, etc).
(b) I hadn't started the vehicle in a few weeks... during that time, the battery was disconnected for a week or so, then when I did have the battery connected, I was using some auxiliary power but never had the vehicle running.
(c) I wired an Anti-Grind (Starter Kill) Relay in with the other wiring.

Start With R/S Transmitter:
Upon first attempt with the transmitters, doors unlocked, lights flashed, horn honked... then nothing.
After trying to start, the output I got was 6 honks/flashes... the instruction manual diagnostics says this means, "Tach Problem (Tach signal without engine running)"
Additional Related Info:
(a) Currently I don't have the R/S Unit's RED/WHITE Tach Wire connected to anything (because I was never able to start the vehicle to get it into "Tach Finder Mode")
(b) The instruction manual says that this unit comes (default) programmed in "Tachless Mode"

Questions:
(1.) Is my thinking correct that if I'm attempting to 'Start' the vehicle with the original key, there should be nothing related to the Remote Starter Unit (nor the Bypass Module) that would prevent a normal start? (so, it would either be the battery or a continuity problem with a Starter and/or Ignition Wire (possibly from the Anti-Grind Relay Wiring??)
(2.) Could this be a problem from the Tach Wire not being connected to anything (even though it's supposed to be in Tachless Mode)?
(3.) Is it possible that I had just drained the battery enough that the vehicle won't start, but there's still enough power left for the other functions to work?




Posted By: geepherder
Date Posted: January 06, 2019 at 6:03 AM
Yes, your car should start with the key regardless. It's possible as you mentioned your battery may just be low. Measure the battery voltage with the car just sitting. What do you get?

If you have a helper nearby, have them attempt to start with the key while you monitor battery voltage. See what it drops down to. If it drops much below 10.5 volts, that may be your issue. Ensure that it's fully charged and try again.

Once you get it started with the key, you can learn the tach and attempt to remote start.

If it still doesn't crank with remote start, you can bypass your anti-grind relay to see if it's related.

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My ex once told me I have a perfect face for radio.




Posted By: tripod1855
Date Posted: January 07, 2019 at 8:40 PM
Ok, so when I measured the battery voltage with the car sitting as is, it measured 12.37 volts. Then, while cranking it with the key a few times, the voltage dropped to about 9.5 volts.

...I only cranked it twice, for approximately 2 to 4 seconds each time. After the second time, with the car just sitting (back to its original state), the multimeter display showed 11.9 volts. I wasn't sure if this indicated a battery problem, but since my girlfriend was home, I hooked some jumper cables up to her car's battery (figuring that it couldn't hurt).

So, with the cables attached, I started my girlfriend's car. Then, one last time, I attempted to start mine. And again, it did pretty much the same thing as before... however, when I held it in the crank position, for a little longer than is normal for my car (maybe 4 or 5 seconds), it did sound like it was very close to turning over a few times. But it didn't. And after 5 or 6 attempts, I stopped trying because I didn't want to cause damage to my starter (or possibly something else).

What does all of this mean?
I was pretty bummed when it didn't start with the jumper cables attached because I've seen plenty of other vehicles start right up when you jump it, even on the coldest day when the battery was totally drained from someone leaving their lights on all night (then they just had to leave it running for a while to recharge the battery). So, I gotta think it has something to do with the relay, right?

I was always able to start it with the key (after connecting all the R/S wires) prior to cutting the STARTER #1 wire (at the Ignition Harness) and connecting each side to the relay. Granted, I hadn't had the harnesses connected to the R/S unit and Bypass unit yet, but the actual wiring hadn't caused any problems with my being able to start the vehicle with the key.

Here's how the Relay is wired:
R/S YELLOW/BLACK (-) 'Ground Out When Running' --> split in 2 directions (with 1N4003 Diodes coming off each split, both CATHODES facing the R/S unit).
--> 1st of these YELLOW/BLACK --> connects to the LIGHT BLUE (-) 'Status Input Wire' on the Bypass Unit
--> 2nd of these YELLOW/BLACK --> connects to the BLACK (Ground) 85 PIN on the Relay

86 PIN (WHITE) on Relay --> connects to Vehicle's BLACK/RED (+) IGNITION #1 Wire (@ Ignition Harness)
87A PIN (RED) on Relay --> connects to Vehicle's BLACK/WHITE (+) STARTER #1 Wire (@ Ignition Harness) on the Starter Side
30 PIN (BLUE) on Relay --> connects to Vehicle's BLACK/WHITE (+) STARTER #1 Wire (@ Ignition Harness) on the Ignition Switch Side

87 PIN (YELLOW) on Relay is NOT USED (not connected to anything)

Some things I've considered that MAY affect the relay (but probably not because from what I've ready, as long as I have each end of STARTER 1 connected to 30 PIN and 87A PIN, it should be just as good as not having cut that wire at all).

Does it matter if the Relay is mounted to the chassis?
Does the BLACK WIRE from the Relay (Ground/85 PIN) have to be 'Grounded' to the Chassis, as well as connected to the YELLOW/BLACK wire coming from the R/S unit?
Does it matter that I originally connected R/S unit's wires (prior to installing the relay) to these STARTER 1 and IGNITION 1 wires, as well as the STARTER 2 and IGNITION 2 wires (one wire from R/S to one Vehicle wire), but that I didn't connect the Relay to either STARTER 2, nor IGNITION 2?
Also, I think the diodes are facing the wrong way, but this shouldn't affect anything if I'm using the key, right?

Do you see any problems with how I wired this? What's the easiest way to bypass it to see if it's just the relay that's the problem?





Posted By: geepherder
Date Posted: January 08, 2019 at 6:36 AM
If the car cranks with the key, this has nothing to do with the relay. How you have it looks good- don't ground 85, just leave it how you have it now. Chassis mounting is fine. If you want to try bypassing it, take a piece of wire at least the same gauge (or bigger) as your starter wire and crimp uninsulated male tabs on each end. Unplug the relay and put your wire at terminals 30 and 87a (where your cut starter wires connect). You could do that, or just splice it back together. There's no need to interrupt both starter wires.

All signs point to a bad battery. Last I checked, my battery doesn't drop below 11 volts during cranking. I doubt your PCM will work correctly on less than 10 volts, so you may not be getting proper fuel/ignition. These may just be side effects though, and not the cause of the problem.

If you don't think so, you can do the voltage drop test on your girlfriend's car. I bet it doesn't drop near as low. You could try installing her battery in your car if it fits. If it starts, great. Just don't keep trying and drain her battery, too.

Consider replacing your battery. If you want to try and salvage yours, I'll list some things to try below, but you'll eventually need to get another one.

Jump starting is not as safe for fuel injected cars as it was for carbureted cars. They cause voltage spikes that can damage any number of onboard electronics/computer modules as well as turn on warning lights and set codes. I've seen it first hand more than once. I put a temporary starter button in my neighbors' 2003 Tahoe so it would start until they got their BCM replaced. If someone needs a jump, I'll pull my backup battery and connect jumper cables to it. Also, the alternator is not meant to recharge a depleted battery, but maintain a healthy one.

I have a battery minder I picked up nearby for $20. It's a smart charger so it won't damage your battery. You can pull the battery and bring it inside for charging. Check the electrolyte level in the cells. If necessary, add just enough distilled water so the lead plates are fully submerged. Do not top off until charging is complete. This process may take 24-48 hours or more, but be patient. During this time, clean your terminals of any corrosion and make sure your grounds are tight, as well as the alternator and starter connections. You may be tempted to use a fast charger, but don't. Doing so can cause the electrolyte solution to boil, further damaging an already weak battery.

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My ex once told me I have a perfect face for radio.




Posted By: tripod1855
Date Posted: January 09, 2019 at 7:29 PM
After I had posted the last reply, I did some searching to find out what the battery readings were supposed to be, and I realized that mine was either bad or needed to be charged. It had quite a bit of corrosion built up around the posts; so, I removed it from the car in order to clean the terminals and the posts really well, as well as to charge it.

After charging for about 20 mins -- MM reading = 13 volts
After sitting about 30 mins (still out of vehicle) -- MM reading = 12.85 volts
After sitting about 2 - 3 hrs (still out of vehicle) -- MM reading = 12.8 volts

I let it sit for a while to see if it would keep a charge or if it would drop back down below 12.4 volts. Since it seemed to hold the charge, I reinstalled it (after cleaning the posts and terminals back down to the bare metal). Again, when I tried to start it, it cranked and turned over, and sounded like it was almost there... but it didn't start.

This time, as I cranked it, the voltage only dropped to 11 volts. After it wouldn't start, I checked the voltage again, and it was between 12.6 and 12.7
So, I checked the voltage from inside the vehicle to make sure it was the same at the ignition harnass, and it was. So, could the problem still be a bad battery? Or, wouldn't this indicate that it's fine... other than it just needed to be charged?

Something else that I thought was very strange:
If both the R/S unit and the Immobilizer Bypass Module "do nothing" when I'm starting the vehicle with the key, why do my doors keep unlocking and locking repeatedly while I'm cranking with the key??
Doesn't that mean that signals are being sent to the IBM and RS? And, if that's the case, then wouldn't the IBM be reading two RFs (one from the key in the module, and one from the key in the ignition), and thereby potentially preventing the vehicle from starting? Is the purpose of the key sense wire in the Immobilizer Bypass Module to "turn off" the IBM when another key is recognized in the ignition (so that this doesn't happen)? As I had mentioned before, I never connected the key sense wire to the IBM because I didn't think it was necessary.
If these units are potentially getting signals (and sending signals) even when I'm using the factory key in the ignition, then the diodes that I think may be facing the wrong direction could also be a potential culprit (interrupting a return signal). I didn't think there were any signals, in or out of either device, when the key is in the ignition, so I didn't really consider these as potential problems before. Can you provide some insight?

I guess one way I could check without rewiring anything would be to disconnect all the harnesses to the units, then try to start with the key, right??




Posted By: geepherder
Date Posted: January 09, 2019 at 7:48 PM
Yes, if your battery is holding voltage, that sounds good.

I would agree with unplugging the bypass and seeing if it starts as you suggest. If it does, you have some rewiring to do.

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My ex once told me I have a perfect face for radio.




Posted By: tripod1855
Date Posted: January 24, 2019 at 9:56 AM
Geepherder, not that you care, but I wasn't able to work on this project since my last post due to work, travel and weather conditions. Nonetheless, when I got back to it, I decided to remove the battery again and take it to be tested (before wasting any more time on anything else)... turns out you were right once again, from the beginning. Although the battery would charge and hold the charge, the cranking amps were down to about 75% and would not increase with the voltage charge.

After I bought a new battery and replaced it in the vehicle, it started right up with the key. Then I re-attached the R/S unit and bypass module; and again, it started right up with the key. So, then I put it in "tach finder mode" and located the Tach Wire (at the ECM behind glove box). Everything said my Tach Wire was supposed to be on the Driver Side, but it wasn't... it was a pain in the ass running the wire behind the dash to the ECM; but, once I had the Tach Wire connected, I tried a 'remote start' for the first time, and it started right up!

I never ended up changing any of the wiring I had done, nor did I take out the relay switches. Everything worked perfectly after I replaced the battery... lesson learned.

Thanks so much for all the help.




Posted By: geepherder
Date Posted: January 24, 2019 at 10:54 AM
Good to hear.

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My ex once told me I have a perfect face for radio.





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