Interfacing 4 Gauge Wire to Relay?
Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Relays
Forum Discription: Relay Diagrams, SPDT Relays, SPST Relays, DPDT Relays, Latching Relays, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=84511
Printed Date: May 03, 2024 at 5:01 AM
Topic: Interfacing 4 Gauge Wire to Relay?
Posted By: jbeletti
Subject: Interfacing 4 Gauge Wire to Relay?
Date Posted: October 23, 2006 at 2:21 PM
I installed an auxilliary battery in my 2005 Dodge RAM to power my toys (CarPC, Router, USB Hub, & IP Camera). I used a Sure Power battery isolator, then ran 4 gauge wire from it to the aux battery. 100 amp circuit breakers used at each end of the positive cable. Connected to the aux battery is a 12 position Blue Sea Systems fuse block. I used short lengths of 4 gauge wire from the positive and neative terminals of the aux battery to connect it to the fuse block. Now I want to install a small dash mounted switch to cut the power at the input of the fuse block. I have 30 amp relays with and without diode as well as the switch I want to use. Question is, what is the best way to interface huge 4 gauge wire to the male spade terminals of an automotive relay? I did not buy a wiring harness/connector for the relay but I could pick one up. Technically, I don't "need" to use 4 gauge from the battery to the fuse block. I had the wire and I had the copper lugs and solder slugs as well as heat shrink, a torch and heat gun so I used what I had and made it nice, if not over-built for my small overall load. I was thining of make a short jumper with a female spade terminal on one end and a ring terminal on the other end. I'd connect the spade terminal to the relay (pin 30) and bolt (?) the ring terminal to the copper lug fro the 4 gauge battery jumper. Does this sound viable? In fact, when I was wiring in the battery isolator, I removed the Dodge supplied output jummper from the alternator to the battery. Interestingly enough, it was about 4 gauge and reduced way down to a ring terminal to connect to the bolt on the starting battery terminal clamp. So I guess this has been done. Maybe I should just use that jumper and replae the ring terminal with a female spade? Just worried aout the stress applied to the relay terminals by medium to heavy gauge wire. Maybe the harness is the way to go. Any input/validation is appreciated. Thanks, Jim 
Replies:
Posted By: hotwaterwizard
Date Posted: October 26, 2006 at 8:50 AM
Try a Ford Starter Solenoid olr a Wench Solenoid, https://www.ecovantageenergy.com/catalog/items/item1585.htm
https://www.ecovantageenergy.com/catalog/items/item1584.htm ------------- John DeRosa (Hotwaterwizard)
Stockton California
When in doubt, try it out !
Posted By: Custom_Jim
Date Posted: October 26, 2006 at 12:40 PM
I would stay away from the ford starter solenoids as they are only for intermittent use. The one hotwaterwizard linked to specs out as continious duty. Jim ------------- 1968 Chevy II Nova Garage Find 2012
1973 Nova Custom
1974 Spirit of America Nova
1973 Nova Pro-Street
Posted By: johnmax
Date Posted: October 26, 2006 at 1:12 PM
Stinger or PAC.I think they have 80 and 200 amp.
Posted By: jbeletti
Date Posted: October 26, 2006 at 2:34 PM
Hi guys,
I have already prety much completed the install that was in the image. So I already have the Sure Power isolator - no need for the soleniod.
I'm relly looking for input on ideas for connecting 4 gauge wire to a relay. Big wire to tiny spade terminal.
If you are saying to use a soleniod for that, I am not sure what I'd need a solenoid for that. Sorry if I am misunderstanding.
Thanks,
Jim
Posted By: Custom_Jim
Date Posted: October 26, 2006 at 8:44 PM
Could you use a distribution block to convert the 4 gauge to as many outputs as needed ?. Something like this which car stereo shops have but do not have as many outputs. https://www.bussmann.com/library/bifs/1117.pdf Jim ------------- 1968 Chevy II Nova Garage Find 2012
1973 Nova Custom
1974 Spirit of America Nova
1973 Nova Pro-Street
Posted By: electrostatic
Date Posted: October 26, 2006 at 9:13 PM
although there are other ways to do it this method will work. use uninsulated terminal of correct size. cut off enough strands to allow 4 gauge to fit terminal, solder, and heat shrink.
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Prove your connections, use a meter!
I promise, I'll behave!
Posted By: hotwaterwizard
Date Posted: October 26, 2006 at 11:09 PM
A tiny relay will fry! A solenoid is another name for a big relay. Just a fancy name. A big relay can handle big loads. I would never hook a 4 gage wire to a little cube relay. As soon as you run a big load the relay will melt and possibly catch your car on fire. ------------- John DeRosa (Hotwaterwizard)
Stockton California
When in doubt, try it out !
Posted By: jbeletti
Date Posted: October 27, 2006 at 8:00 AM
Hi guys,
Thanks for all the suggestions so far.
I looked at the Bussman PDBs. If I could find one locally, that would work.
Cutting down the 4 gauge to fit a spade terminal would also work but there may be too much stress on the connector with that huge cable.
As for using a solenoid instead of a small relay - now I am getting what you are saying. That said though, my max load is 15 amps. No amplifiers or any other high in-rush current devices. So with 15 amps max on a cheap 30 amp cube relay, is that still too much?
Thanks again everyone.
Jim
Posted By: jbeletti
Date Posted: October 27, 2006 at 8:20 AM
I researched solenoids a bity and I am tending to agree with HWW above. Even though I am not switching a high-current load, my connectivity issue is solved using a solenoid and it does give me room to grow.
Not sure if I am allowed to post links to product here. But I guess I'll risk it to get feedback. I looked at the Cole Hersee website to see their solenoids, then I sourced them at West Marine. The one I am considering is a 65 amp continuous load unit, insulated and rated for 12 volt use. There are many variantions out there too. Non-insulated, plasticised case, intermittent duty only, higher and lower current rated etc.
Here's the one I am considering.
Posted By: hotwaterwizard
Date Posted: October 27, 2006 at 8:33 AM
That is the style I use on Hot Water Pressure Washers . They handle the load of a fan motor and Igniter just fine. Most 12 volt burners are about 15 amps and this style of relay works well.
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John DeRosa (Hotwaterwizard)
Stockton California
When in doubt, try it out !
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