bmw power folding mirror?

I have folding mirrors the mirrors work off two wires a blue and white when the blue is powered and the white is grounded the mirror goes up and if you power the white wire and ground the blue wire it goes down. I dont know what relay I can use to get these mirrors to work right I need a little help

I forgot to say that this is for a 99 323I SEDAN and I would love to get these to work off the lock unlock so when I lock the car they fold up

Can anybody help please

You could try something like this-

4 wire reversing relay configuration

Is the power to those wires controlled by a momentary switch that you manually control or there some logic in the mirrors that stop the motors at the limit stops?

If you use the setup shown in the diagram you have to make sure it can never get both "lock" and "unlock" signals active simultaneously- normally with a mechanical switch it wouldn't be a problem, but it may be better to modify it so it's protected against that.

I'd suggest making a modification to the circuit as follows:

-Reverse the terminal connections on relays 1 and 3, swapping 30 and 87.

-Break the connection shown for terminal 86 on relays 2 and 4, disconnecting them from the fused 12V.

-Connect 87A of relay 1 to 86 of relay 4.

-Connect 87A of relay 3 to 86 of relay 2.

That should keep the relays from shorting 12V to ground if both the lock and unlock inputs inadvertently get activated at the same time.

Thanks for the help the door only gets the power for unlock or lock never both. I wanted to use the power sent to the door lock to operate the power side of the mirrors so when you lock the car the mirrors go up and when unlocked the mirrors go down. can't I use the power sent to operate the lock to send to the relays. Also the when you lock the door or unlock the door it sends the signal for a little over a second the cuts off so it wouldn't burn out the mirror motor.If you can draw out some kind of diagram it would really hope and please remember I really don't know to much about wiring.

You can add two of these circuits for the lock and unlock control inputs; it uses the short negative trigger pulses from each of your lock and unlock signals and extends them out to the amount of time you need to work the mirrors. You only need one of the 40106 chips for both, since each chip has 6 inverters in the package. (use pin 3 for input and pin 4 for output on the second one; pins 1 and 2 for the first)


You don't need the K1 shown in this diagram, but instead connect D1 pin 2 and Q1 pin 1 to the relay terminals 86 and 85 in the first circuit. Note terminals 85 and 86 were drawn differently in the two circuits, so be sure to connect the D1-2 (striped or cathode side of the diode) to the side that gets the 12V, in any case.

Are you sure you want to operate the mirrors every time you lock and unlock the doors? If you lock your doors while driving, you'd want to at least put an extra switch to turn off the 12V power to the circuit, to disable the circuit when necessary. If you don't want to use a manual switch, you could just use another SPDT relay that's controlled by the ignition, so the power to the circuit is cut off when you have the car running.

thanks for the help i am sure you know what your talking about but I am lost I understand your point on having a another switch to disrupt the 12v so when i am driving the mirrors dont go up if i lock the doors but before i go there i have to see exactly how to wire these to wire mirrors to operate on the lock and unlock system can you color code the 12v and the grounds also show me how to wire the mirrors up I know this is a pain but i am not really sure and I dont want to make a mistake thanks

First thing you should do is confirm that the blue and white wires you're planning on using are not grounded when you're not controlling the mirrors.

It might be set up so that the wires normally have a ground on them, and the switch controls whether it gets 12V to one or the other. In that case this relay setup won't do the job.

To check, put your meter on voltage mode and see that both lines are showing no voltage. Then put it on resistance mode and check that there's no connection to ground.

If you can then put 12V to one side and ground on the other, check that the mirror moves the way you expected.

If this all checks out, you can go about rigging up the circuit to control it; otherwise we'd have to go to plan B, whatever that might be.

If you're not that familiar with working with electronic components, you might see if you could find a friend who is, since you do need to be a bit more careful with the solid state stuff than just regular relays, to make sure you don't zap it with static or count the pins wrong. You wouldn't want it to latch up and end up burning out your mirror motors-

there is no switch all I have is the two wires coming from the motor. when you put power to the blue and ground the white the mirror goes up and if you reverse them the mirror goes down I tested this with a 9 volt battery I put the blue to the positive and the white to the negative and the mirror went up then I switched the wires and the mirror went down. What can I do like I said I want to try to use the lock unlock to control them thanks

Okay, then it should work- I can combine the two drawings when I get the chance, and you can see if it's something you think you can try.

Thanks so much if you keep the drawing as simple as possible and explain it I think I can do it Thanks again

Thanks again is there any way you could write up some type of diy for me I understand the relay part but not the bottom half of the diagram why so many 12 volt points

The 12V points are just for protection against voltage spikes, which can damage the solid state stuff. If your triggering signal is clean, meaning it's doesn't have any high voltage peaks when it switches, you can do without those four diodes at the front. If your signal is also directly driving the door locks, I'd add the diodes as a precaution, because it'll most likely be pretty spikey, and you'd need an oscilloscope to check.

Basically all you do is connect all the points shown with wire; but you need to know how to identify the pins on the chip, the transistors, caps and diodes. You can find datasheets at mouser.com, or digikey.com where you can get the parts also. datasheetarchives.com is also a good place to look up parts. Connections should be soldered, but using one of those prototype boards is a good way to quickly put it together to see if it'll work the way you want. With those, you just plug the components in, and it'll make the connections you need.