I have done a few searches, but found too much info for my brain to handle!
The mirrors have two wires, wire them to pos and neg and it opens, reverse the polarities and it closes.
I would like to wire them to open when my alarm is disarmed, close when armed. I have a 'ground-when-armed' output i thought i could use?
I would like a switch so i can pull them in when needed for tight spaces. (though i could simply place one on the 'ground-when-armed' line?)
Also open and close movements need to be timed to avoid burning the motors out. I was thinking to use a '555 monostable switch'? from here - https://www.maplin.co.uk/module.aspx?ITAG=FAQ&ModuleNo=220009&doy=28m10#faq
I just can't figure out how to put it altogether and how to wire relays.
Any help would be much apreciated, thanks
Matt
Folding Mirrors-------------
Jeff
Velocity Custom Home Theater
Mobile Audio/Video Specialist
Morden, Manitoba CANADA
cool, so if i wire the relay like this, can i swap the +or- from the aux channel for ground or 12vdc, as i don't want to use the aux channel.
Pin85 - 12vdc
Pin86 - Negative when armed
Pin30 - Either + or -, whatever is needed to make the mirrors move, from your aux channel
Pin87A - Fold Out output
Pin 87 - Fold In Output
How do i make it timed? 555 monostable going in to pin 86?
i saw this posted by dualsport in another thread.
looks promising, but i need to change the unlock and lock input triggers shown (i could wire like the diagram, but wouldn't the mirrors fold in if a had to lock the doors while driving?). I will have just one neg when armed (lock) output from my alarm. how do i split this to go to the unlock and lock triggers in the diagram?
and finally where/ how can i add a switch?
Thanks!
If you use the lock/unlock outputs from the alarm, and have them diode isolated, manually locking the doors shouldn't trigger the circuit. It should only be active when you arm or disarm the alarm-
The circuit assumes the pulse from the lock or unlock is just a short pulse, and stretches it out long enough for the mirrors to move before turning off again, so you may not have to add any additional timing circuits, though you could, just as an added safety to make sure it doesn't stay on if something goes wrong.