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2005 silverado onstar/bose

Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Vehicle Wiring Information & File Requests
Forum Discription: Request Car Alarm, Car Stereo, Cruise Control, Remote Starter, Navigation, Mobile Video, and Other Vehicle Specific Wiring Info, Manuals, Tech Tips
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=101410
Printed Date: May 07, 2024 at 6:38 PM


Topic: 2005 silverado onstar/bose

Posted By: joew311
Subject: 2005 silverado onstar/bose
Date Posted: January 20, 2008 at 8:30 PM

I have a 2005 Silverado with Onstar and Bose.  Which brand adapter is the one to use?  I tried the GMOS 04 and it was horrible.  The speakers popped when the acc was turned on with a door open.  That was the biggest problem I had with it.  I have decided to forego installing a head unit for now because of all that and have decided to get a better line level converter to run my sub and amp.  I have ordered the MTX req.  Is this product the best in it's price range?  I am not looking to spend a lot because I will replace the HU at a later time when better adapters are available.  Now my main question.  Which leads front or rear should I get my line from to drive the req, the front or rear?  I had it hooked up to the rears before, but the bass seamed to be very limited.  Also, where in the harness should I tap into the factory system, behind the HU or under the cupholder?

Thanks in advance for your help.




Replies:

Posted By: i am an idiot
Date Posted: January 20, 2008 at 8:59 PM

If the Bose system has a subwoofer, you need to get input from the sub wires.  If it has a sub the rear speakers are crossed over and are not a good place to get signal.





Posted By: speakermakers
Date Posted: January 20, 2008 at 10:21 PM
The factory amp is under the rear of the center console. The only full range out puts are the thin twisted wires for the tweeters. The tweeters are the only speakers in the system that do not use active crossovers (built into the amp). The factory sub is crossed over at 50hz (Hi Pass) and has a large peak at that same frequency. If your aftermarket sub is designed to play no lower than this the factory sub output is fine. If you expect real low bass then tag the tweeter output. To find the wire colors simply check the factory tweeters. The wire with the capacitor in line with it is positive.





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