2007 g2500 chevy van power windows
Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Vehicle Wiring Information & File Requests
Forum Discription: Request Car Alarm, Car Stereo, Cruise Control, Remote Starter, Navigation, Mobile Video, and Other Vehicle Specific Wiring Info, Manuals, Tech Tips
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=122273
Printed Date: May 07, 2024 at 3:12 AM
Topic: 2007 g2500 chevy van power windows
Posted By: spirostats
Subject: 2007 g2500 chevy van power windows
Date Posted: June 12, 2010 at 9:58 PM
Hi all
I just bought a 2007 Chevy express G2500 cargo van and I was wondering if its possible to add power windows and power locks with remote control plus possibly an alarm system
more specifically my questions are:
1. power locks and remote/alarm system---
a) should I use a universal kit that I found on amazon.com? (I was told by the seller that it comes with the wires and also remote and alarm)OR is there a possibility that the existing wiring harness includes the wires and I just need to purchase the actuators and the switches (OEM kit) and just hook them up to the existing harness?
b) if an OEM kit doesnt exist can someone recomend a universal kit? (the one im looking at seems to be for a four door car and im afraid it wont be durable enough for the van)
2. power windows---
a) this question is along the same lines as above, in other words does Chevrolet sell a kit or do I need to go with a universal one?
b) if i need to purchase a universal kit where do i get one (for two windows)?
last question. I d rather have this installed by a pro. Can you guys recommend someone in central Jersey that does this kind of work?
thanks
Replies:
Posted By: i am an idiot
Date Posted: June 12, 2010 at 10:49 PM
I do not know if the kit I am thinking of is a GM piece or an aftermarket piece. I think it is aftermarket, I can find oiut Monday. We have done window conversions with the spal kits that slide over the splined shaft that the window crank mounted to. They work but do come back with problems. Recently we have done several for the local GM dealer, these kits are a bit more involved as far as installation, but they are rock solid and have never had one come back. They are replacement regulators with an electric motor built onto them. They bolt up to the original bolt holes that the old regulator comes out of. A bit more involved than a Spal upgrade kit, but way more reliable.
Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: June 13, 2010 at 3:28 AM
What are the new kits Craig, Electric Life? Used to be able to get Spal kits with Heavy Duty motors. We were doing about 3 a week 10 years ago. In answer to the original post, pull the driver's door panel and see if there's any spare wiring.
Posted By: spirostats
Date Posted: June 13, 2010 at 8:56 AM
Hey, thanks for your reply
(Im not gonna make jokes about your name_im sure someone has done that already_LOL!)
Just to clarify, my van has manual windows and locks and im looking to ADD power windows and locks
im referring to this comment you made "They bolt up to the original bolt holes that the old regulator comes out of."
are you an installer? are you local? if so can you give me an idea of how much it would cost for you to install them?
Posted By: i am an idiot
Date Posted: June 13, 2010 at 9:23 AM
I am local to me, but I have no idea where you are.
howie I will find out who makes this kit and let you know. The vehicles were not prewired for windows. The kit comes with switches and harness.
Posted By: spirostats
Date Posted: June 13, 2010 at 9:29 AM
I live in Matawan and work in New Brunswick I pm'ed you my phone# :)
Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: June 13, 2010 at 10:53 AM
Mr I eats Cajun and I eat fish and chips, he's 2000 miles south and I'm 3000 miles east to far for mobile work so I think you should use the directory on this site.
Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: June 13, 2010 at 11:00 AM
I have relatives in Perth Amboy NJ if that helps.
Posted By: spirostats
Date Posted: June 13, 2010 at 11:45 AM
howie ll wrote:
Mr I eats Cajun and I eat fish and chips, he's 2000 miles south and I'm 3000 miles east to far for mobile work so I think you should use the directory on this site.
I live in Matawan and work in New Brunswick I pm'ed you my phone# :)
ok sorry ....i get it. I prob should of looked at the location info under his name
to my defense though, i did mention Central Jersey in my first post_
Posted By: spirostats
Date Posted: June 14, 2010 at 4:07 PM
i am an idiot wrote:
I do not know if the kit I am thinking of is a GM piece or an aftermarket piece. I think it is aftermarket, I can find oiut Monday. We have done window conversions with the spal kits that slide over the splined shaft that the window crank mounted to. They work but do come back with problems. Recently we have done several for the local GM dealer, these kits are a bit more involved as far as installation, but they are rock solid and have never had one come back. They are replacement regulators with an electric motor built onto them. They bolt up to the original bolt holes that the old regulator comes out of. A bit more involved than a Spal upgrade kit, but way more reliable.
Hey I was just wondering if you were able to look up the power window kits that you mentioned above and maybe power locks/alarm
thanks
Posted By: topinstaller200
Date Posted: June 14, 2010 at 6:56 PM
use either COLIBRI or SPAL DELUXE kits for your van. Colibri is easier to mount and the motor is faster and stronger in my opinion. You also need a 3-switch kit . On average the motors should cost you $130 + $75 for switch kit.
I fair price for your windows and locks with keyless entry should range between $500 - $650
Electric Life kits are more expensive and would normally be the best choice
Also there was an installer on this site from the New Jersey area looking for work. Maybe you can contact him for the install. I will repost his info if I find it
Posted By: topinstaller200
Date Posted: June 14, 2010 at 7:02 PM
Posted By: i am an idiot
Date Posted: June 14, 2010 at 7:28 PM
I forgot to check today. The boss will be at work tomorrow, hopefully I will remember to ask her.
Posted By: spirostats
Date Posted: June 14, 2010 at 7:43 PM
topinstaller200 wrote:
use either COLIBRI or SPAL DELUXE kits for your van. Colibri is easier to mount and the motor is faster and stronger in my opinion. You also need a 3-switch kit . On average the motors should cost you $130 + $75 for switch kit.
I fair price for your windows and locks with keyless entry should range between $500 - $650
Electric Life kits are more expensive and would normally be the best choice
Also there was an installer on this site from the New Jersey area looking for work. Maybe you can contact him for the install. I will repost his info if I find it
thank you very much for your info. I pm'ed the installer you recommended and waiting to hear from him
Posted By: i am an idiot
Date Posted: June 15, 2010 at 10:50 PM
Posted By: spirostats
Date Posted: June 16, 2010 at 9:30 AM
i am an idiot wrote:
https://www.haneline.com/el-lifeapps.html
Wow this is weird!....I followed your link and tried to call the phone numbers listed on their webpage and none of them work i get a recording saying
"the number you have dialed is no longer in service..."
Ill try to find electric life somewhere else
thanks again
Posted By: spirostats
Date Posted: June 16, 2010 at 9:45 AM
I contacted electric life they were very helpful. I think In have all I need
thank you all
Spiro
Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: June 17, 2010 at 3:40 PM
Electric Life are the best.
Posted By: spirostats
Date Posted: June 19, 2010 at 9:14 AM
howie ll wrote:
Electric Life are the best.
sorry i meant "a1electric.com"....cheaper and more helpful.!
Posted By: spirostats
Date Posted: July 08, 2010 at 7:38 AM
Ok
I purchased a w02f-740T and a STAR-3 S98 from A1electric
I have installed everything else but Im having a little difficulty finishing up the alarm installation (avital 3100).
my questions are as follows:
1. I was able to install the alarm to the point where it locks and unlocks the doors successfully (I connected the blue and the green wire (from the separate harness _H2 door lock harness_) and it works fine. I also installed the siren and it works.
Im now trying to understand how to wire the H1/5 (green door trigger input) and the H1/7 (violet door trigger input) wires from the main harness. I read on the instructions that Im supposed to connect them to the "negative and positive door pin switch". The problem is that my van does not have (or does not have a traditional ) "door pin switch" but the dome light works as it should _doors open/light on and vise - versa.
I have a wiring diagram that I downloaded from the Internet that lists certain wires in the vehicle harness (under the steering column) that i think i might be able to use. For example it lists "dome light supervision' and " door trigger" but im not sure which ones they are exactly and dont know which ones to connect (+/-), in order to output to the alarm the state of the doors (open/closed)
2. this question is along the same lines as before but it pertains to the parking lights and dome light. More specifically Id like to find out where to connect the H1/4 (interior illumination) and H1/2 "selectable light flash" wire I read somewhere that the H1/2 could be wired directly to the front parking light on the vehicle but im hopping that this wire could be intercepted somewhere inside the vehicle so I don't have to run a wire through the firewall and engine compartment in order to get to the front parking light.
3. when i purchased this alarm I did not realize that it uses the same button for the lock/unlock buttons. The problem is that I sometimes find myself wondering if I hit the button by accident and disarmed the alarm involuntarily. This wouldn't be a problem if I can see or hear the alarm being triggered. But in a situation where I cannot get visual or sound confirmation (for example, behind a closed door in a noisy environment), Id like to find out if there is a way to program one of the other buttons that Im not using, (trunk release or panic) where by, no matter what state the alarm is in, when I hit that button it always locks the vehicle and arms the alarm.
Thanks for your time and sorry about the long post:)
Spiro
Posted By: spirostats
Date Posted: July 08, 2010 at 7:40 AM
spirostats wrote:
SORRY maybe I should of mentioned in this post as well that the installation is for a 2007 Chevrolet G2500 Express Cargo Van
Ok
I purchased a w02f-740T and a STAR-3 S98 from A1electric
I have installed everything else but Im having a little difficulty finishing up the alarm installation (avital 3100).
my questions are as follows:
1. I was able to install the alarm to the point where it locks and unlocks the doors successfully (I connected the blue and the green wire (from the separate harness _H2 door lock harness_) and it works fine. I also installed the siren and it works.
Im now trying to understand how to wire the H1/5 (green door trigger input) and the H1/7 (violet door trigger input) wires from the main harness. I read on the instructions that Im supposed to connect them to the "negative and positive door pin switch". The problem is that my van does not have (or does not have a traditional ) "door pin switch" but the dome light works as it should _doors open/light on and vise - versa.
I have a wiring diagram that I downloaded from the Internet that lists certain wires in the vehicle harness (under the steering column) that i think i might be able to use. For example it lists "dome light supervision' and " door trigger" but im not sure which ones they are exactly and dont know which ones to connect (+/-), in order to output to the alarm the state of the doors (open/closed)
2. this question is along the same lines as before but it pertains to the parking lights and dome light. More specifically Id like to find out where to connect the H1/4 (interior illumination) and H1/2 "selectable light flash" wire I read somewhere that the H1/2 could be wired directly to the front parking light on the vehicle but im hopping that this wire could be intercepted somewhere inside the vehicle so I don't have to run a wire through the firewall and engine compartment in order to get to the front parking light.
3. when i purchased this alarm I did not realize that it uses the same button for the lock/unlock buttons. The problem is that I sometimes find myself wondering if I hit the button by accident and disarmed the alarm involuntarily. This wouldn't be a problem if I can see or hear the alarm being triggered. But in a situation where I cannot get visual or sound confirmation (for example, behind a closed door in a noisy environment), Id like to find out if there is a way to program one of the other buttons that Im not using, (trunk release or panic) where by, no matter what state the alarm is in, when I hit that button it always locks the vehicle and arms the alarm.
Thanks for your time and sorry about the long post:)
Spiro
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