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amp/tyco quick disconnect terminal

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Forum Name: Vehicle Wiring Information & File Requests
Forum Discription: Request Car Alarm, Car Stereo, Cruise Control, Remote Starter, Navigation, Mobile Video, and Other Vehicle Specific Wiring Info, Manuals, Tech Tips
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=124230
Printed Date: March 28, 2024 at 1:26 PM


Topic: amp/tyco quick disconnect terminal

Posted By: z_karma
Subject: amp/tyco quick disconnect terminal
Date Posted: November 01, 2010 at 2:03 PM

Hello
I'm new to the forum and have a request and hoping y'all can help
or point me to where i could get help.

I'm trying to locate a cross reference or physically identical
crimp terminal, to AMP/Tyco PN 171656

Here is a link to the spec sheet and pdf drawing
(i couldn't link to the pdf directly)
https://www.tycoelectronics.com/catalog/pn/en/171656-1?RQPN=171656-1

This style is OEM in the factory relay boxes in Nissan/Infiniti vehicles.
The design of the angular (rather than rounded) top allows them
to lock into the relay box using a plastic lock tab molded into the box.

posted_image

The AMP/Tyco PN is the closest i've found to the oem part, of which i'm sure is manufactured by sumitomo/yakazi.
I've checked Allied Electronics, Digikey, Newark and a few others with no luck. I've also corresponded with tycoelectronics online help and they said they have none in stock and they'd have to be ordered, but with
my quantity needs (<100), a minimum order of +3000 parts would be overkill.
Thanks for any help!



Replies:

Posted By: oldspark
Date Posted: November 01, 2010 at 6:28 PM
I'd ask why?

I used to use them years ago (with their clear plastic cases) but onhly have scavenged ones left.

These day crimps are used for free-air installations (crimped then soldered if needed), else spade connector blocks are purchased which include the female spades as per your picture (though with a latching feature). EG - see
naauto.biz...category84


And I also have a collection of wiring for my vehicle that uses lots of those spade connectors.

BTW - the only similar connector I have seen recently is the telephone version - but they are ~2-3mm as opposed to the 6.3mm 1/4" spades. Not that I have searched online...




Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: November 02, 2010 at 5:35 AM
You can pick up the latching type, used in aftermarket relay holders at any major installation firm such as Scosche, Metra etc. Probably even R/Shack you will need an un-insulated crimp tool.

-------------
Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.




Posted By: ckeeler
Date Posted: November 02, 2010 at 11:53 AM
DigiKey and most other places suck for terminals and connector bodies, Mouser is ok. I recommend you try www.powerandsignal.com for this type of thing, or for terminal removal, and crimping tools as well.




Posted By: z_karma
Date Posted: November 02, 2010 at 1:23 PM
In lieu of finding the correct terminals
I've continued searching and think I've found some possible working replacements that are high enough (2.3-2.7mm) to click into the relay housing. That's the main issue I'm facing. The locking mechanism is in the housing, not the terminal. So if the top features of the terminal have too much of a gap or is not tall enough, they fall right out.

here:Eastern Beaver
and here:Tyco 42100

Application:
I'm doing a restoration and wire-tuck on my vehicle, a 84 300zx turbo Anniversary Edition, which leaves me with having to shorten and extend lengths to the relay box.
https://img534.imageshack.us/img534/7743/imag0150sm.jpg
https://img440.imageshack.us/img440/8569/imag0148sm.jpg
https://img594.imageshack.us/img594/47/imag0149sm.jpg

Rather than in-line splice everything, I'm trying to terminate everything proper. I'm rather particular on wire routing and technique. I also try to keep everything as OEM as possible.
In my profession i have access to multiple crimp tools as i make
a lot of prototype chassis cables for my job, mostly Molex stuff.
I also have proper tooling for generic insulated terminals as well.

This is an awesome site btw, Thanks for the replies.




Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: November 02, 2010 at 1:33 PM
There were 2 latching types and 1 non-latching!
The simpler after market type used a small prong on the terminal to latch on to a plastic housing and it was sided. The second type had a spring overlay which held it in place.

-------------
Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.




Posted By: z_karma
Date Posted: November 10, 2010 at 4:26 PM
The aftermarket ones that i've tried so far are not physically
"tall" enough to catch the locking latch within the housing.
I found a solution though Eastern Beaver though.
I ordered Brass Yazaki .250" Terminals through him and they
fit well enough.

Thanks for everybody's help/input





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