ignition failed in my honda

Ok, here's the info: 92 Honda Accord. The ignition key cylinder will only let the car run if i hold the key in between the run & start position. I have found the constant 12V wire(white), the accessory wire(blower motor: solid yellow), the ignition wire is black with a yellow stripe.

I can start the car with the key so the only thing i need to do is to use a toggle & a relay to keep the car running. I seriously need a discription or a diagram of how i should wire the toggle to keep my car running. Please help....
Thank you.

-------------
When you put your mind to it, the possibilities are endless.

I suggest you fix the key-switch.
It is worn and needs replacing.

Otherwise a separate switch that controls a relay (but not anybody that wants to steal it).

Change the key switch.
Else white to yellow and WHITE/ black for acc constant then constant white to BLACK / YELLOW for acc and ign, then momentary from white to BLACK/ white for start.
As I said change the ign switch!

-------------
Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

I dont have enough money for a new ignition switch, ive gotta scrape by just to get 1 of my three bad tires replaced. But i do have relays & toggle switches hanging around my garage, & trust me no1 is stealing this car. So in order for me to just put my car in the run position, i need to re-run every wire? Tht doesnt make much sence

-------------
When you put your mind to it, the possibilities are endless.

Work this out:-
12V+ Constant Input WHITE
ACC x 2 YELLOW and WHITE/ BLACK
IGN. BLACK YELLOW
STARTER BLACK/ WHITE
Throw a switch for the ACC x 2,
Throw a switch for the ignition,
Momentary switch for the starter at the same time cutting out the two x acc wires, use a 5 pin relay for that function.

-------------
Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

You can probably just run a wire from the battery +12V to ignition coil's +12V (side of its ballast if fitted).


Otherwise all you need is to connect B/Y to W at the Ign Switch - with copious current capacity of course.
[Sorry Howard, I have spooned yet again... But that won't provide the entertainment (ie, Acc).]


PS - I hope someone does steel it - that might prevent this info contributing you your accident.

Ok, the car will start by the ignition, & will run if the key is held by hand in the start run position. i need to find a way to flip a toggle, turn the key to start the engine & have the engine running from the 1 toggle switch being turned on (i.e. ignition II spot on the ignition) then when i need to cut the engine off, just turn the switch off.

i just need a switch to mimic the key being in the run position. ( A ignition run switch)

-------------
When you put your mind to it, the possibilities are endless.

This is so wrong in so many ways.
The start/run is a sprung loaded momentary switch, the others are all constant except when that is engaged when the yellow and WHITE/ black are disengaged.
Could our poster simply meter or even a 12volt test light and tell me what powers up when?
There's got to be a simpler answer. This is going to be a clusterfudge otherwise.
Don't you love it when I invent new words Oldie?

-------------
Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

I want to know what happens when you turn to ignition, does the BLACK / YELLOW stay live? It should also stay live along with the BLACK/ white when you turn to the start position.

-------------
Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

I'm waiting for the fire, those those Jap flinks are pretty good.

I just hope we don't feel like confustigating the muddy bucket of pitch with "bad" advise.   


And yes Howard, I like your Bacon - I mean, Shakespearian wordages.
It's about time we expanded our vocabs again - it's been getting so dreary. (ie, only tektawk like splugs, sparts, flinks, flattery, fullery etc.)

I tested each wire before hand to make sure each wire had continuity & they all do. Im gonna test each wire again on my 15min break & report in lol. Thanks for the quick replies btw.

-------------
When you put your mind to it, the possibilities are endless.

Ah, a spring is in the air, the one that fell out of the Honda's ignition switch.
Right Oldie I'm tired it's 23:20 time for your brekkies and the other guy's tea, I've got two trackers for 7:30a.m.,8 miles away, another three in Swindon Wiltshire, 90 miles away, think Brunel and the Great Western Railway, engine sheds, Victorian engineering masterpieces, oh forget it now they build BMW Minis and HondaNondas.

-------------
Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

howie ll wrote:

---

I want to know what happens when you turn to ignition, does the BLACK / YELLOW stay live? It should also stay live along with the BLACK/ white when you turn to the start position.

---

Yes the BLACK / YELLOW stays live when in the ign II & III position. The BLACK/ white wire is live in ign III, the solid yellow is live in ign II only, so in my opinion i need the BLACK / YELLOW & solid yellow to connect to the solid white constant 12v wire to run the car, (imulating the ignII circuit) right??

-------------
When you put your mind to it, the possibilities are endless.

Just thought of why having both the BLACK / YELLOW wire & solid yellow connected is a bad idea....the solid yellow is for the cooling fan/blower motor circuit. These areent powered when the ignition is in the start position to save energy for maimum starting power. I have to wire 2 seperate swithes to a 12v switched source to keep those circuits separate. Meaning flicking on the BLACK / YELLOW switch @ start, then flick on the yellow once started for run.

-------------
When you put your mind to it, the possibilities are endless.

Your last post but one, that's exactly what should happen so the problem isn't at the switch.
FYI to start this car, the BLACK / YELLOW should stay live constantly whilst in ignition (ll) and start (lll).
The BLACK/ white goes to live only in start position (lll) whilst the other's except the BLACK / YELLOW all dump in the start position.
To confirm this connect your white to the BLACK / YELLOW, your instruments and warning lights should come on, the "flash" for about 1 second from the live (white) to the BLACK/ white. Do this with gearshift in neutral and parking brake on.
If the car starts and runs the problem is the switch. If you get the same symptom as before then the problem is somewhere else.

-------------
Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Ok,.update: i got payed yesterday......(finally) & took out the ignition switch, the actual part that houses the wires & took it apart to look @ its connections & they were severely worn. I looked online for just the wiring harness/switch & it turned out to be like $68 @ o'reillys with lifetime warranty. I got a ride down to my local store & took it with me, bought it replaced it & now my car growls like a tiger lol.   

Thank you everyone who helped me on this topic. & like always if ive got a wiring issue that i cant figure out on my own i will ask yall quick fast & in a hurry. thanks

-------------
When you put your mind to it, the possibilities are endless.