2003 nissan xterra se v6 rf wiring

Hello!

I need help wiring a 2003 Nissan Xterra SE with RockFord Fosgate system. I replaced the head unit with a JVC KW-NT3HDT. So when I installed it I noticed it didn't quite sound as good as when the RF HU was in, and also there is a small pop when its turned on, and a louder pop when its turned off. So I'd like to verify what I wired, and if I need to use a relay, directions on what to connect where.

70-7551 harness:



JVC harness:



70-7551        <===>          JVC KW-NT3HDT

BLACK + BLACK/ WHITE <->             BLACK + LIGHT GREEN
RED      <->             RED
YELLOW              <->             YELLOW
BLUE     <->             BLUE
ORANGE             <->             ORANGE / WHITE
BLUE/WHITE       <->             BLUE/WHITE
WHITE/ BLUE RCA             <->             FL/FR RCA
GREEN/ VIOLET RCA        <->             RL/RR RCA

I get power and everything works, just the sound isn't as...deep. That might just be tuning, but whats more concerning is the pop when its turned on and off. I was looking at this guide, but I'm not sure what exactly to do. The linked guide says 12v, But I dont know what its referring to...12v switched from headunit to relay, then relay to harness 12v switched? 30 and 87 turn on the relay, so does 87 go to the head unit?, and 85 to the 70-7551?

Or do split of 12v constant and 12v switched from the relay to the 70-7551? Or wire it another way? Whats confusing is the guide doesnt follow the normal convention of what wires go where on a relay, but I dont know anything about this stuff. Any help is appreciated!

Basically the guide you linked indicates that there is a factory fault in your head unit preventing the amp from being shut off right away (via the head unit's remote wire)which is causing the loud "pop" you are hearing. The solution to this is to install the relay.

The process it explains is the method to completely bypass your head unit's control over turning the amp on and off, as the relay allows it to be controlled by your vehicle's ignition instead. (So when you turn off your vehicle, the relay will INSTANTLY cut off the amp)

85 & 86 are always a relay's coil terminals (energize/de-energize the relay thus opening/closing the relay's "switch" which is across terminals 87 & 30).

So what you want to do is:
-cut/cap original blue/white remote wire at the harness
-now attach it to relay terminal #30
-locate a +12v IGNITION SWITCHED source from your vehicle's fuse box
-attach a wire from the fuse box's +12v switched source. You'll need to SPLIT THIS WIRE INTO 2 WIRES by attaching another wire to it somewhere (doesn't really matter where, OR if you prefer you could just make 2 separate wires attached to the fuse box's +12v switched source)
-you will connect these 2 wires (or single wire branched out into 2 wires) to the relay terminals #85 and #87 (doesn't matter which wire goes to which of these 2 terminals).
-finally, ground relay terminal #86 by attaching a wire from 86 to anywhere on the vehicle's body/frame with good metal contact.

That's it, good luck. Let me know how it works/if you have any other questions.


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[BooZted Z31]

*1988 NISSAN 300ZX (CT26 turbo, CXracing intercooler, 3" exhaust, k&N, Z32 twin-turbo fuel pump, Prothane bushings, Dunlop SPsport 8000, rebuilt/polished head w/4 angle valve job, etc

I did it a little differently. I wired the relay so that 12v switch (85) to ground (86), remote wire to amp (30) to 12v constant (87). All split from wires in 7551 harness. There is still a noise, but its more of the amp turning off, not the loud thunderous pop I heard before.

I do have a question regarding your solution though, does using 12 switched on 87 have any benefits over 12v constant? I ordered a PAC hardness with 4 line level outputs that'll eventually replace the 7551 (due to low volume), so I may change the relay if it would say, remove the turning off sound!

Yeah the way you wired it is totally fine as well. And nope it makes no difference whatsoever whether you use 12v switched or 12v constant for terminal 87 (only required for the 85) so changing it to 12v switched wouldn't give you any benefit.

It is normal for the amp to make an audible noise during power down, just so long as it's not anything real loud.

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[BooZted Z31]

*1988 NISSAN 300ZX (CT26 turbo, CXracing intercooler, 3" exhaust, k&N, Z32 twin-turbo fuel pump, Prothane bushings, Dunlop SPsport 8000, rebuilt/polished head w/4 angle valve job, etc