12 volt constant at ignition gone
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Forum Name: Vehicle Wiring Information & File Requests
Forum Discription: Request Car Alarm, Car Stereo, Cruise Control, Remote Starter, Navigation, Mobile Video, and Other Vehicle Specific Wiring Info, Manuals, Tech Tips
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=128556
Printed Date: May 14, 2024 at 3:43 AM
Topic: 12 volt constant at ignition gone
Posted By: orandaberg
Subject: 12 volt constant at ignition gone
Date Posted: September 18, 2011 at 4:21 PM
Hi
My car did not start when I turned the key to the start position,not even a crank over, so I checked the 12 volt constant and it had no power,so I found another hot source and tapped into the harness wire and it starts, but I need to know why my 12 volt source quit in my harness, All fuses are OK as far as I have tested.
I need to know if using that other hot source will cause any further problems, should I put a fuse between the hot source and where I tapped my harness?
I have a Chrysler 300C 07 model, the color of the 12 volt constant is light blue/red, would be nice to know where that wire goes to or what fuse controls it if there is one
Replies:
Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: September 18, 2011 at 5:42 PM
Fuse box or circuit breaker at battery? Both in trunk.
Don't worry your car will be called a Lancia next year so take it to a dealer and they will say Fix It Again Tony.
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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.
Posted By: KPierson
Date Posted: September 18, 2011 at 5:55 PM
No, it's not safe to jump power like that. You need to find out what failed, and why. Most likely you have a blown fuse somewhere and by simply jumping power most likely you will just blow it again and possibly damage more because you are using a different circuit to provide power.
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Kevin Pierson
Posted By: orandaberg
Date Posted: September 18, 2011 at 6:00 PM
Thanks but I have checked all the fuses acording to the fuse location manual, can anyone give a hint where to look?
Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: September 18, 2011 at 6:08 PM
OK,now I'm effing invisible! Re-read my post again dummy it tells you where to look AND test each fuse with a DMM, looks can be deceiving.
If you can't find it; for safety sake, run a thick lead at least 3mm from the rear battery and fuse it at the battery with a 50 amp fuse.
-------------
Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.
Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: September 18, 2011 at 6:09 PM
Oh and another thing, if you have to take that last route, don't just join to the original lead, cut the original then join them.
-------------
Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.
Posted By: orandaberg
Date Posted: September 18, 2011 at 6:19 PM
Thanks but don't call me a dummy! I know about the fuse box, I checked each one with a Volt meter front and rear, but I do appreciate the reply:). Do not take this wrong but I think what you are saying is cut the original lightblue/red from the harness and use the wire I tap in directly to the lightblue/red wire that is left still attached to the key connection that plugs into the key cylinder
Posted By: KPierson
Date Posted: September 18, 2011 at 6:23 PM
Have any modifications been made to the car? Anything change on the car right before it lost power?
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Kevin Pierson
Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: September 18, 2011 at 6:28 PM
Yes but my original point was don't check with a voltmeter, use continuity.
-------------
Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.
Posted By: orandaberg
Date Posted: September 18, 2011 at 6:33 PM
Hi
Yes an attempt was made to add a touch start, I touched the start button and thats when things went wrong
Posted By: orandaberg
Date Posted: September 18, 2011 at 6:34 PM
Ok I will check with continuity.
Posted By: KPierson
Date Posted: September 18, 2011 at 6:38 PM
99.9% you have a blown fuse somewhere, you just need to find it. Pull the fuses out of the car and test the resistance of each one.
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Kevin Pierson
Posted By: orandaberg
Date Posted: September 18, 2011 at 6:44 PM
Posted By: orandaberg
Date Posted: September 18, 2011 at 6:45 PM
The power comes into pin 16 on the data link connector on a wire called A106 20 gauge LB/RD. It is fused by fuse 8 (15 amp) in the power distribution center. Check that fuse.
Posted By: orandaberg
Date Posted: September 18, 2011 at 7:01 PM
thats from a forum,but the fuse checks ouut OK
Posted By: i am an idiot
Date Posted: September 18, 2011 at 7:27 PM
Kevin voted 99,9% for a blown fuse. I am going to throw in the remaining .1%.
Posted By: oldspark
Date Posted: September 18, 2011 at 8:00 PM
And you have checked fuselnks? (IE - If they are separate and before to the fusebox.)
Posted By: orandaberg
Date Posted: September 19, 2011 at 3:22 AM
Hi
Turned out to be fuse 8 15amp in the trunk, cleared all codes,as normal again
Thanks guys
Posted By: orandaberg
Date Posted: September 19, 2011 at 11:03 AM
Last night the car was fine, today I got in and put in the key turned to the on position and this time I could see all the symbols for PRND and a small box at the bottom, turn the key to crank and it did one turn over and stopped, the little red security light came on, cannot open close the door locks with key fob, where compass and temp was on EVIC or dotted lines, put the OBDII emotion code reader and it says no ECU
Posted By: orandaberg
Date Posted: September 19, 2011 at 11:57 AM
Ok took the battery cable off again for ten minutes deleted error code p0513 and used my spare key,all OK now, I was a bit nervous for a while,thought I had real expensive problems,maybe taking off the power resets?
Posted By: oldspark
Date Posted: September 19, 2011 at 8:17 PM
Just a bit if "in general" FYI from my readings & experience:
Removing power for 10 secs or 10 mins (depending on system) is a good way to reset modern devices (EMS etc).
Most EMS then require a few minutes of idling so they can retune. Further retuning may occur over subsequent drive periods.
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