1999 Lexus IS200 Alarm Wiring Diagram

Hey All:

I am needing wiring information for a 1999 Lexus IS 200. Its pretty much the same as the IS 300, different motor/transmission but other than that, identical.

I could work off of the IS300 diagram, however, having never done a IS200 before I want to make sure everything is up to par before I start substituting one diagram for another.

Thanks in advance!

200 or 250?

1999 Lexus is200. Imported from Germany.

Howieeee Help

sorry for the formatting of copy and paste.. this is all i have




1999 Lexus IS 200      DirectWire 2.0 Vehicle Information
     
     
Remote Start
     
     
Item     Wire Color     Polarity     Wire Location
12 Volts               
Second 12 Volts               
Starter     BLACK/ white          ignition harness
Second Starter               
Ignition     BLACK/ red          ignition harness
Second Ignition               
Third Ignition               
Accessory     red          ignition harness
Second Accessory               
Third Accessory               
Keysense               
Data Bus               
Can Bus High               
Can Bus Low               
Can Bus Sw               
Power Lock     GREEN/ YELLOW     5wi     wht plug driver kick panel
Power Unlock     RED / white     5wi     wht plug driver kick panel
Lock Motor               
Driver Unlock Motor               
Parking Lights (-)               
Parking Lights (+)     grn/yel & grn/blk          driver kick panel
Hazards               
Turn Signal (Left)               
Turn Signal (Right)               
Headlight               
AutoLights               
Reverse Light               
Left Front Door Trigger     RED / white     -     at B post or interior light
Right Front Door Trigger               
Left Rear Door Trigger               
Right Rear Door Trigger               
Dome Supervision               
Trunk/Hatch Pin     RED / yellow          alarm in driver kick panel
Rear Glass Pin               
Hood Pin               
Trunk/Hatch Release               
Trunk Release Motor               
Fuel Door Release               
Power Sliding Door (Left)               
Power Sliding Door (Right)               
Factory Alarm Arm               
Factory Alarm Disarm               
Disarm No Unlock               
Trunk Alarm Shunt               
Tachometer     BLACK/ silver dots          diag. plug under driver dash
Wait to Start               
Neutral Safety               
Clutch Pedal               
Fuel Pump               
Rear Defroster               
Mirror Defroster               
Left Front Heated Seat               
Right Front Heated Seat               
Speed Sense               
Brake Wire     GREEN / WHITE          brake pedal switch
Parking Brake               
Horn Trigger               
Wipers               
Memory Seat 1               
Memory Seat 2               
Memory Seat 3               
     
     

Amazing! Thank you so much!

I'll have to find the Neutral (+)or(-) on my own. Should be the same as the IS300 . . . which I've got notated somewhere in my box.

Thanks again!

DEI European info would be based on the UK spec which of course would be right hand drive.
The door locks alone are a PITA. Buried under a kick panel fuse box is an ivory/whitish box held on by 4 x 8mm spanner size castellated nuts.
Undo them and unplug the box. Open it and look at the circuit board.
At one end are the two thickest tracks.
Cut both with something like a Dremel tool, make a 3/8 hole in the cover opposite and resolder each track to a 4" (10cm) length of cable. Bring those cables out and reassemble and remount the box.
Now cut those cable and test using key in door or OEM remote to find the lock and unlock motor wires and wire as a 5 wire.
Still interested? Then one of those plugs you put back has all the door and trunk and if I remember hood triggers! But then if the dome light shuts down when the vehicle is locked we know the answer there.
My question...wth does the poster mean by "neutral (+) or (-)?
This isn't an electric vehicle powered by a wall outlet you know.
The light colours are actually the L/R indicator colours but we use them anyway.
Ignition loom and the tach, pin 9 by the way are the same as Metz listed.
There will certainly be an immobiliser to by-pass, 55UW not 555F is the way to go, also keysense definitely needed BLACK / YELLOW at the ignition switch. All in all one of the most fiddly cars I've ever worked on, at least all the trims go back nicely.
Mind you for fiddly you can't beat chucking a Bluetooth kit into the latest IS and having to run the lead to the amp at the back.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

P.S. WTH would someone want to import a 2litre Japanese vehicle from Germany when you could buy a 3 litre version in the US for less money.
Unless US forces. I've done a Japanese GS 300 twin turbo at a USAF base here, it's the hummer with the roof mounted Ma deuce pointed at you as you enter the base which rather puts me off.
The PX reinforced everything I like about the US, especially the prices.

-------------
Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Hey -

Its a stick, but the customer wants the remote start to perform as if it were on an auto (e.g., not having to turn the car off with the remote) when the car is in neutral. Therefore, I need to find the wire telling the BCM (yes I know GM terminology, but it works) that the car is in neutral. That way I can connect the Remote start ground wire safety function that everyone always ties into the main ground on the alarm or just chassis grounds it, to either the "neutral" wire if it is (-) when in neutral, or hook it up to a relay if it is (+). I hope it is (-), else the customer will have to jump the car is left sitting for 3 weeks or so. I don't think Toyota/Lexus was doing data at this point in time for neutral.

And yeah, I asked the customer myself, and he quickly educated me that you can pick up a IS 200 in Europe for approximately 2300 Euros, which is what he paid for his. Add shipping and the exchange rate, and hes driving around is an IS for ~ $4500, still cheaper than the beat-to-hell bottom of the barrel IS-300 here in the states one can pickup for around $6500. Additionally, it has better gas mileage than an IS300 and it works off regular.

I took the car around the parking lot, it feels very similar to the E46 323i. Not a bad car for $3k.

Additionally, I see you are from the UK. You can get a decent IS200 with low mileage for less than 2000L. Not a bad deal if someone needs a cheap beater with the ride of a semi-luxury car.

Also, anyone have wiring information for factory arm/disarm?

Fair enough, I just seem to remember that UK built Focus, Jaguar, Range Rovers are far cheaper in the US than here but we are taxed to the hilt, + gasoline at $10 per gallon, no wonder they sold very few IS 300 in Europe. It might come as no shock to you but the biggest seller of the current shape is the diesel.
You are right in what else you said, when new they came in at the same price as an E46 320.
BMW sell more 3 Series in the UK than the Ford Mondeo/Edge, they have an unbeatable and not undeserved reputation in the UK and most of Europe.
They must have sold the original IS cheaper in Germany to chip away at BMW.

-------------
Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

I doubt if there's a factory alarm on the Euro versions, never found one but if there was it will be a cigarette pack sized box, black with a white plug with a riveted shield, adjacent to the glovebox.

-------------
Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Thanks for the tips.

For some strange reason the IS-300 wasn't offered on the mainland in a stick, Auto only. I think that probably had more to do with the IS's failure in Europe rather than the gas mileage. Lets be honest, if one's primary concern was gas mileage, one would look first at a 318d in this price bracket.

I find car prices in Europe surprisingly cheap. There is a show here in the states, based out of the UK about some guy who buys used cars, does some cheap fixes on them, and then resells them at a profit. The prices he pays for these things, even with the exchange rate factored in, we here in the states can't even come close to. He bought a 2001 Saab 9-3 convertible for like 2300L. Same car here in the states is $7k+. Complete insanity.   

Shoot, Clarkson May & Hammond figured it out the hard way a few years back that used cars, even excessively crappy ones here in the states are quite expensive.

I'm moving to Germany this summer for a study abroad, and have never really considered a Lexus, but based on what this guy has said, and the 10 minutes of research I've done on the subject, it seems to be a pretty solid choice.

When y'all getting Smart Starts in Euro-land? I figured with Europe's extensive GSM network, and cold weather, y'all would have had it before us.

Obviously our last posts crossed each other, look at what I posted ref. the alarm. The magic words are unlock and keysense.
If I'm not mistaken grounding the key sense during the R/S procedure, via the GWR wire will disable the factory alarm.

-------------
Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

I've been playing with Smart start for two years, R/S apart from Russia never took off in Europe.
Also iphone and the Android family, my daughter and her boyfriend have Galaxy IIs I have a Sensation and my best pal and his family have iphone 4s and ipad IIs Having said that too many Nokoffs and Crackberries in Europe, still like a Saab probably worth keeping because there won't be any more. 2nd hand Saabs have had no value because they are effectively Vauxhall/Opel Vectras a car the the Ford Mondeo completely overwhelmed. They will pay you to take a Vectra away. Even the newer (last) Saab is a Vauxhall Insignia a.k.a Buick Regal!
In the UK which is the most advanced audio and convenience market outside the US, we are on the same heading as Alberta (51deg. N) yet it has only reached 0c. once this year

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

So what is the deal. DEI tells me it is only available in the States. What you're telling me is that it WILL work in Europe?

(crosses fingers?)

Go to armourauto.com in the UK, page 503/4 and then realise you are looking at the 2011 catalogue, so this has now been available in the UK for 18months.
Stop press, not even on the UK trade price list, probably special order only.
Unless the US version has quad band, a US version won't work in Europe.
You do know that 2G and 3G are on different frequencies in Europe to the US?
And is the US version GSM or CDMA?

-------------
Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.