Printer Friendly Forum Posts - 2009 chrysler sebring 4 dr

Here is a link to a generic DEI remote starter install ( 3 parts ) : https://www.readyremote.com/InstructionalVideo.asp

Here is a link to the Bulldog Security generic remote start install video : https://www.bulldogsecurity.com/bdnew/installationvideo.html

Here is a link to the wiring info from Bulldog Security : https://www.bulldogsecurity.com/bdnew/vehiclewiringdiagrams.asp

Here is a link to the wiring info from DEI : https://www.readyremote.com/main.asp?make=Chrysler

Due to the MUX ignition system, transponder, locks, alarm, etc, it might be a good idea to use a bypass module like the iDatalink ADS-ALSL CH.
It will make the install easier and save you some time. https://store.idatalink.com/index.php?l=product_detail&p=154

The install and wiring is similar to the 2011 Jeep Patriot in the Pictorials section : https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp~TID~130393~PN~1

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Soldering is fun!

Thanks for your help, will be trying it today

D.I.F.M. section.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

ok so I only tried connecting the Door Unlock/Lock and Trunk, since I have to wait to receive the bypass module. when i press either the lock or unlock button on the remote, all it does is lock the doors. What could i have done wrong that is not allowing me to unlock?
Im going to upload a picture of how i did the wiring. posted_image

could it be that i twisted both ends of the resistor and connected them at one splice as i didnt want to cut twice on one wire???
resistance changed when twisted together?

If the KE system has only two wires you need relays.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Not familiar with the Avital 4103 unit ( not one of my normal brands ) but as Howard points out, using relays will definitely solve your problem. Here is a link to the relay wiring : https://www.bulldogsecurity.com/diagrams/extrainfo/diagrams/14301_SEBRING-SEDAN_JBS%20UNITS%201%20WIRE%20DOORLOCKS.JPG Use the top diagram.

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ok thanks i will be trying that out today, thanks guys, appreciate the help :)

is 778 and 775 relays the same? or do i need a specific one?

I also noticed that in the diagram, the 87A pin is not used, so could i go ahead a purchase a 4 pin relay that has 85 87 86 & 30?

The 778 is a pre-wired pair of relays from Bulldog Security ( kind of like the DEI 451M ) and the 775 Relay is just a single 30/40 Amp SPDT relay ( standard Bosch 5 Pin automotive relay ) with harness.

Yes, you can use SPST relays ( 4 pin ) for that door lock application.

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ok thanks for the info. I went around to different stores and im better off buying the 778(cost wise)
https://www.autotoys.com/x/product.php?productid=8962

also in the wiring diagram it shows that the parking lights wire should output (-), but the wire i found that connects to the lights supplies (+), is the wiring diagram wrong or am I looking at the wrong wire?
it shows (+) when i press the Brake.

will
DB-CHALL
allow me to open and lock doors without the relays?
since i will be needing a bypass module, i would like if I could just buy this one module, and be able to unlock/lock doors while being able to start car

Yes, the DEI CHALL will do many things for you, locks, alarm, MUX & bypass, however you must also get the CHTH2 harness as shown in the Type C/D install diagram. This bypass is similar to the Fortin EVO-CHR with the THAR-CHR2 harness. I would also recommend using the W2W method for the connections between the Avital and the bypass module. Done on the bench, prior to installation, W2W is easy and very reliable. The harness makes the vehicle install very quick & easy.

My favorite for that vehicle would be the ADS iDatlink ADS ALSL CH with all hardwired W2W connections ( same as the Jeep Patriot install previously mentioned ). Street price about $50.

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ok $50 sounds nice:) thanks everyone for your help, didn't think i would've had the courage to do it(since i just bought the car) but y'all made it possible.

Why would right after turning my vehicle off, the doors will not lock with remote unless I press unlock then lock? If I forgey to lock doors as soon as leaving car and return to lock it, lets say a minute later, the doors will lock with no problem. Is thos a feature in chruslers cars?

Is this problem happening with the Factory FOB's or the R/S FOB's?

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with the remote start fob, it doesnt do that all the time, like today i went to walmart and as soon as i stepped out of the car, the doors locked with no problem. But like i said, theres times when the doors wont lock,but i can hear both the relay and module clicking when i press lock. It wont lock unless I press Unlock then lock.

Which bypass module did you end up using? If you used the CH-ALL, did you go D2D or W2W?

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I ended up buying the directed electronics 451m door relay, originally i was planing on adding just key-less entry, but after going to amazon.com i got a good deal for key-less and remote start, almost a third of what i seen at best buy for same alarm, so i don't plan on adding the remote start module anytime soon. would that be the problem? i could only use the key-less entry from this module? or i would have to have the remote start connected as well?

kreg357 wrote:

My favorite for that vehicle would be the ADS iDatlink ADS ALSL CH with all hardwired W2W connections ( same as the Jeep Patriot install previously mentioned ). Street price about $50.

ok will I need more than one key to program this and will I need a spare key to leave inside?
when i purchased the car it only came with one key, and it wasnt the original keyless fob($210for a new key plus the programming, hence why i wanted to go the route of installing an aftermarket keyless)
If I'll be able to program and get it working with just one key, then ill be ordering it this friday

again, thank you very much for your help.

I'm confused. Originally you were installing an Avital 4103 and using relays for the locks. Which Remote Start / Keyless Entry
system did you actually buy / install?

The 451M kit comes with a 330 ohm resistor. Radio Shack will have the 100 ohm resistor. Follow the Type H wiring diagram on
Page 6 of the instructions. You can test this with just the 451M connected to the car and applying +12V to the Red wire in the
3 Pin plug and a momentary ground to either the Green or Blue wire for lock or unlock. If that works properly all the time, then the
issue you mentioned is with the R/S keyless entry system.

If you do go with a full featured bypass module, like the CH-ALL or ADS ALSL CH, the DEI 451M won't be necessary. The bypass
module will do all of that for you thru the CAN Bus connections. Only one key is needed to just program the bypass and it won't
remain in the car.

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Avital 4103 remote start and keyless.
i was looking for
A keyless system but came across this system with remote start for half the price a keyless only system would've cost at the store at amazon new.
So what I did was only connect the keyless wires and tapped off the remote start wires until I buy the bypass module.
I purchased the 451m relay and installed it. It works good most of the time, but theres times when I press the lock button I just hear both the avital and 451m click but doors won't lock unless I press unlock first then lock . I was wondering if this was a feature of the car, which I doubt since 9 out of 10 times it locks without a problem.
Hope this clears it up

Ok, if the k/s sysyem is faulty, do they offer warranty?

Avital is not one of my normal brands. The selling dealer would be the best place for any warranty issues. I would
do some testing before assuming it's a bad unit.

Using this 4103 Install guide ( https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/file.asp?ID=738 ), it looks like you only need to
connect H1/8 to a solid chassis ground, H1/9 ( factory default is + ) to the Sebrings WHITE/ Violet Parking Light wire
in the DKP ( optional ), and the two heavy gauge Red wires to a +12V constant source from the 6 Pin connector for
keyless entry functions. Also connect the Antenna and 451M to their respective ports. The factory default programming
of single 0.8 second pulses should be OK.

If you have a spare 330 ohm resistor, you could test the system locking by making a jumper wire with the resistor in
the middle. One end to the cars Lock/Unlock wire and momentarily touch the other end to chassis ground right after
engine turn off. Could be a poor connection in your wiring that is causing the problem. Everything should be soldered
and the chassis ground wire should have a soldered on terminal ring and be securely fastened to bare metal.

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Ok I will go back today and solder all the wires and make sure the ground is solid, thanks for the info. will be buying the ADS ALSL CH module this friday :)

Ok so i should be receiving the ADS-ALSL-CH this monday, I have a question about this product, will I have to stick my current key(only one in my possesion) in the iDatalink module for it to program??? I read the manual online and dont seem to point to anything about key programming. Or will it program with the key inside the key ignition???

Using the ADS ALSL CH5 install guide #8528, follow the Type 3 wiring diagram. There is no need
for the DEI 451M and its' connections to the door lock wire, the iDatalink bypass module handles
that thru CAN Bus data. Make all of the connections shown with solid Red and dashed Black lines
between the 4103 and iDatalink. ( The 4103 does not need the EBrake, Door Status & Trunk Status.)

The CH5 install guide does not show the connections between the 4103 and the car. Besides the
+12V constant wires, connect Chassis Ground, Parking Lights, Horn ( optional ), Neutral Safety and
the Hood Pin.

The iDatalink programming can be found on Page 18 of the install guide. It's a two step process.
First step is to select and lock-in the Install Mode. W2W is Standard Mode, two blinks.

The next step is the actual programming to the vehicle. Follow the Type 3 programming, 9 steps.
While you will need the key for programming, no key will be placed in the bypass module or left
in the vehicle.

My normal programming routine is to start with Factory Reset ( shown on Page 19 ). After Step 5,
the LED will be blinking a "one blink" pattern ( Data Mode). Press the button once and verify the
LED is now blinking a "two blink" pattern ( Standard Mode ). Press & hold the button. The LED
should go solid Green for two seconds. Release the button and continue the Factory Reset procedure
at Step 6. Next, go right into the 9 step vehicle programming procedure.

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Just to make sure, did I purchase the right one???
https://www./itm/400184640704?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649

what is the difference of ADS-ALSL-CH4 ADS-ALSL-CH5 and ADS-ALSL-CH6? how do I know which one I purchased? or is that just different numbers for different connection types but same product?

There should be a white sticker on the bottom corner of the box. It lists the Part Number ( ADS ALSL CH ), the
SW ( aka firmware ) ADS-ALSL-CH (V1.3) and, most importantly, the guide number.

Here is a link to the iDatalink support page : https://www.idatalink.com/support/helpdesk
Near the upper middle of the page, under the Install Guide banner, plug the guide number from the
box into the Guide Number window and click on GO.

With a Solo Series like the ADS ALSL CH, you might have to set the module with a Platform number first,
then continue to the ADS ALSL CH5 install guide for the wiring and vehicle programming. Can't remember
it too well, haven't used a Solo for a while ( mostly Multi series now ).

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Ok I just received the Bypass module, I will be installing right now, just printing out the guide.

will I still need the resistor for the unlock or does the bypass come ready to just solder straight to wires?

The remote starters Lock and Unlock output wires go directly to the bypass modules Lock and Unlock input wires. No 451M, no resistors, no connection to the vehicles Lock/Unlock wire.

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ok so i went off of the 8528 manual because my computer wouldnt let me press go. but just now i tried to open the 2568 and it shows the remote start wiring different. im giessing thays the reason it wont start

Probably. If the box has the guide number of 2568, that is the one you want to use. Looks
like you should follow the Section B, Type 2 diagram.

If you had the ADS USB cable and access to the firmware downloads, you could re-flash the module
with the newer ADS ALSL CH5 firmware and leave the wiring as per the guide #8528 Type 3 diagram.

Don't forget to follow the Install Mode procedure ( Standard Mode - two blinks ) on Page 18
and then the 9 step vehicle programming procedure.

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ok ill will that first thing tomorrow

i know this is off topic, but mabe you could help me out. i installed a amplifier and couldnt find a accesory wire on radio for remote on so i have a killswitch between a live 12 volt+. i read the wiring diagr and it shows CanBus? how can i access that?

Keep to the kill switch. Don't do anything with the CAN wires = $$$$$

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

howie ll wrote:

Keep to the kill switch. Don't do anything with the CAN wires = $$$$$

Ok yeah I dont want to fry anything on the system, so there's really no way around this? Using a another wire that turns on with the car being passed the accesory in the ignition?

i rewired, i hear the box clickibg when i press remote start but car wont start. i checked the voltage on every wire and they all have power. do i have to connect the 4 pin satellite harness for the avital?

i did the shutdown diagnostics and it blinks in a pattern of 3, low or no RPM , low battery(for voltage & virtual tach modes)

Just so we don't miss anything, lets go step by step.

1. You connected the ADS ALSL CH bypass module to the Avital 4103 W2W as per the Section B
Type 2 install diagram shown in guide #2568. ( Diode is a 1N4001 or equiv.)
1a. On the 4103 4 Pin Satellite Harness, only the Blue (-) 200ma Status Output wire is
used. It must be connected to the bypass module Blue/White GWR Input.
2. You set the install mode on the bypass module to Standard ( two blinks ) and locked it in.
3. You did the 9 step bypass module to vehicle programming on page 17 of the guide and it
responded properly and appeared to complete the programming OK.
4. As a test, you can now use the Avital FOB's to lock, unlock and pop the trunk.

If all of the above is good, the error indicates a 4103 issue. ( same avital warning )

Things to do / check on the Avital :
1. The bypass supplies a Tach signal to the 4103. (You connected the wire. ADS PURPLE / White
to 4103 H2/2 PURPLE / White) Did you program the 4103 for Tach Mode? Menu 2, Item 1, Opt 4
2. Did you do the 4103 Tach Learn process?
To learn the tach signal
1. Start the vehicle with the key.
2. Within 5 seconds, press and hold the Program switch.
3. The LED will light constant when the tach signal is learned.
4. Release the Program switch.

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im missing step 1a i will do it right now.
i can pop trunk and unlock.
its set to standard mode (2 blinks)
the other problem is on step 4 instead it blinks red. unless i go to off then on before proceding to step 6, only wsy it blinks green.

i cant connect the gwr wire on bypass because thats where the idatalink wire is connected. or was i not supposed to use that wire???

Sorry if I confused you. I used the term ADS one time and bypass module another. I'm referring to the same thing, the ADS ALSL CH module.

As per the wiring diagram, the ADS ALSL CH Blue/White GWR wire should connect to the Avital 4103 Blue Status Ouput wire on the 4 Pin satellite connector. That is how the Avital signals a remote start sequence to the ADS ALSL CH. The Avitals' heavy gauge Purple Starter wire is connected to the ADS ALSL CH BLACK/ White Starter (+) Input wire to signal the actual cranking sequence.

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yes sir i understand that part but i had the bypass and remote start communicating through the idatalink wire. to my understanding, i have to disconnect the idatalink wire and use the standard wiring from the bypass so i can connect the gwr wire as ithe idatalink is connected to the red port on the avital. on the module it has 3 wires, gwr ground and 12v, will i have to connect the red wire to a constant 12v? and ground to the chassis?

Yes, that is correct. When you connect the 4103 and ADS ALSL CH in W2W mode, the D2D harness is not used. You actually cut the harness and just connect the Red to +12V constant ( either 4103 heavy gauge Red wire is fine ), the Black wire to the 4103 H1/8 Chassis Ground wire and the Blue/White GWR to the 4103 Blue (-) Status Output. The 4103 heavy gauge Red's still go to a suitable vehicle +12V constant and the H1/8 continues to a solid vehicle chassis ground.

That is probably why the ADS ALSL CH did give the correct indications during programming. You might have to do a Factory Reset to the ADS ALSL CH, set the install mode again and program to the vehicle again.

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it starts now with remote start. thank you so much for your assistance throughout the whole installation sir. couldnt have done it withoit The12Volt.com

Great job! posted_image The first one is always the hardest.

Just test everything a few times and then neaten and secure all the wires. Button it up and you're all set.

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sure was hard. is there anyway i can put the accesory wire to use, like when i remote start, supply 12 volts to the amp remote on?

does the idatalink module control the defogger and car finder? or i need to wire them to.activate

and for comfort closure which rolls up windows after lockibg, do i need a seoarate module?

The 4103 heavy gauge Accessory wire is available. Just remember that it has a current ratting of 30 Amps. It will only be ON during a remote start. ( Actually, it will come on with the 4103 Ignition wire, drop to 0V during Starter Output ( cranking ) and return to 12V after engine start-up and stay on until key take-over or remote start time out.)

The ADS ALSL CH does not control the Defroster in this application. But it is possible to do it with the 4103 ( same Avital warning ).

You could use the 4103 Blue/White 2nd Status/Defrost wire, programmed as Latched
(Menu 2, Item 8, Opt 2 ) to control a 30/40 Amp SPDT relay for the Defrost circuit.

This info from Omega :
Rear Defrost LT BLUE\ORANGE (5 WIRE) DRIVER KICK HARNESS TO REAR

Wire relay as follows :
Relay Pin 85 to 4103 Blue/White ( programmed for Latched Defrost )
Relay Pin 86 and 87 to +12V constant fused at 20 Amps
Relay Pin 30 to cut vehicle Light Blue/Orange defrost wire - side going to rear of vehicle
Relay Pin 87a to cut vehicle Light Blue/Orange defrost wire - side going to front of vehicle

Not sure about a 4103 car finder option. Think you are referring to the Factory Remote car finder feature?

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Soldering is fun!

car finder is done by pressing remote start and trunk.
abd the worst just happebed, after tie wrapping ecerythibg ans putting the car back together the keyless and remote start wont work. i tested the red constant wire and ground and its getting current

could I have shorted the box out??? posted_image

Possibly but..

First verify that the car starts with the key and the factory FOB's still work properly. If all that is OK and it's just the 4103 / ADS bypass that's not working, then open the dash back up and start checking all of your harnesses and connections are good. Maybe a plug was lose? Did you solder and insulate all of the connections? If it was all good until you tie wrapped and neatened up something happened then. Did you connect the 4103 to the Parking Lights? Do the Parking Lights flash when you hit lock or unlock on the 4103 FOB's? Any relay clicking going on with the 4103?

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i didnt wire the lights from the 4103 they worked when i press the unlock lock and remote start though.
all the wiring were soldered and insulated.
car turn on with key (no fob key,just regular transponder key, reason why i wanted to add keyless, remote start was just a plus in my project)

so what i did was go to pep boys since they carry the same model, purchased one and paid the extra warranty. i plugged in the new module and it works. im thinking the first one i had was faulty, because i no longer have the problem where the doors wont lock quickly or at all.

ill be going to pep boys to exchange the faulty one to get a new one.
i explained what was happening before purchasing and manager said it wouldnt be a problem as long as i put the old one in the box that i juat bought without using the new wires.

i will be installing it on my dads 2010 chevy after he purchases a bypass.

hope this next install will be a breeze.

Glad it's all working again. posted_image

Don't usually see a R/S brain crap out like that, but then Avital isn't one of my normal brands.

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yeah I dont know why it did that but the new one unlocks quicker.

so now im thinking about buying the window module but will I be able to controlthe windows withthe remote or only when I remote start the car?

kreg357 wrote:

The 4103 heavy gauge Accessory wire is available. Just remember that it has a current ratting of 30 Amps. It will only be ON during a remote start. ( Actually, it will come on with the 4103 Ignition wire, drop to 0V during Starter Output ( cranking ) and return to 12V after engine start-up and stay on until key take-over or remote start time out.)

The ADS ALSL CH does not control the Defroster in this application. But it is possible to do it with the 4103 ( same Avital warning ).

You could use the 4103 Blue/White 2nd Status/Defrost wire, programmed as Latched
(Menu 2, Item 8, Opt 2 ) to control a 30/40 Amp SPDT relay for the Defrost circuit.

This info from Omega :
Rear Defrost LT BLUE\ORANGE (5 WIRE) DRIVER KICK HARNESS TO REAR

Wire relay as follows :
Relay Pin 85 to 4103 Blue/White ( programmed for Latched Defrost )
Relay Pin 86 and 87 to +12V constant fused at 20 Amps
Relay Pin 30 to cut vehicle Light Blue/Orange defrost wire - side going to rear of vehicle
Relay Pin 87a to cut vehicle Light Blue/Orange defrost wire - side going to front of vehicle

Not sure about a 4103 car finder option. Think you are referring to the Factory Remote car finder feature?

oh ok sorry I'm guessing this would also apply to that window module

No, the Rear Defrost info is for Rear Defrost only.

Using the 4103 Remote Starter to actuate the rear window defroster ( with the 4103's Defrost output ) and getting the windows to roll-up
with a Lock/Arm are two different functions. The 4103's Defrost output comes on automatically 10 seconds after a successful
remote start and, when programmed to latched, stays on for 10 minutes. This output was not really designed for window roll-up.

Depending on your vehicle and what you want to do with the windows, the most common windows modules are the DEI 529T and
the DEI 530T. The install guides with wiring diagrams to either one can be found in the Downloads Section of this site.

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To run a 529t, close only, you will need the orange GWA (ground when armed wire) to trigger it.
To use a 530t close/vent open, you will need the orange as above plus a spare aux output for venting and opening.
One of each for a pair of windows.
Properly wired a 530t goes to the motor wires in EACH door. A real PITA but wired that way will give you one-shot open and close from each window switch.

-------------
Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

ok but the avital 4103 doesn't have a spare aux output?

Same Avital warning ( not an Avital dealer / installer ). The 4103 is a nice basic remote start with keyless entry unit. It can
easily handle the rear defroster and window roll-up ( with GWA ). It does not have multiple, programmable AUX outputs like
the high end DEI Viper units, but then again it doesn't cost $250 either.

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Why are you even asking this. You've just spent X weeks installing it you should have read the instructions at least once.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Use H1/7 trunk release as your aux.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

but wouldnt that pop my trunk open when I press it??

That is correct, if you are already using the 4103 Trunk Release output to pop the trunk, it is not available to be used for window vent / roll-down purposes. The 4103 has limited outputs and might not be suitable for the extra options you desire.

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Soldering is fun!

Have you already wired it as a trunk pop?

-------------
Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

And even then you could use your lock/unlock outputs to control a latching relay which will give you window control when locked and trunk release when unlocked via the trunk release.
Or stick with the 529t when you only need the GWA wire.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Latching relay diagram part number in title, Mouser Farnel etc.
86E_omron_g6ck-_2114p-us12dc.bmp

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

the pop trunk wire from the remote start is connected to the input of the bypass. and im thinking of purchasing a 12volt wireless remote control switch. could that work??

hi, i recently had a problem with my remote start system.
So i had decided to run the power to the remote start unit from the 0 Gauge wire that runs to my subwoofer amplifier. I drove from Texas to Missouri with the amp on, halfway through the trip, i decided to get something out the trunk, and noticed the amplifier was extremely hot. I turn the amp off and kept driving. when i stopped to get gas, i tried remote starting the car and it wouldnt turn on, I also tried unlocking doors, and also didnt work. When I arrived to Missouri, i disconnected both the Remote start and Bypass units, and the only one not lighting up is the Remote start, the Bypass lights up when I plug in power connections.

Could it had been that the wire that runs from battery to amp overheated and caused something to desolder inside the Remote Start unit???

No just an amp problem.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Bad wiring?
Blown fuses?
Bad grounds (especially amp)?

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

I checked the fuses and they're not blown and the wiring is still intact. I still haven't checked the amps ground. If the ground was bad, would the amp still turn on?

Yes, but it wouldn't affect the R/S.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Ok So it,must be something in the wiring then.
I'll recheck the wiring tomorrow on My brake

What would cause the remote start unit led not tp flash or turn on when plugging into power? I replaced it With a new unit and its still not working, I checked the red wires for power and the ground, and its getting power. The bypass seems fine as the green led flashes When I turn car on With key.

I just finished checking all the wiring to the remote start unit and everything.seems to be intact.

I was wondering if I disconnected the power wires and the ground wire and actually plugged I in straight to the battery, would that allow me to test if the unit is working? Or do all the wires have to be connected for it to work?

Should the led light flash when powered?
I also held the valet button hoping to hear the car honk but it didn't