no power inside vehicle

I have a 2001 Honda CR-V and I have no power inside of vehicle, vehicle will not start, dash lights, radio, interior lghts, clock, door locks, windows, wipers or headlights nothing that's turned on from inside of vehicle works but the horn works.

When you over-ride the two power wires that connected to the battery and fuse/relay compartment with double end lobster clips the vehicle will start right up and continue to run but once the vehicle is shut off right back to square route one.  Battery and fuses are good I don't know how to test relays.

I think it has something to do with one of the relays involving the wire that sends power into the vehicle, what do you think the problem could be?  

A wiring diagram for the vehicle would be useful.   

Check for blown fuselinks - usually 2-pin plastic devices.

You may have blown your "main" flink (fuselink) which is likely to be bolted in. (Lower rated flinks may simply be push in.)

Flinks can be mounted (under a cover) on the +ve battery lead (Toyota, Daewoo etc) else are usually in the first/main fuse/relay box.


Sorry I don't have the specifics for your vehicle.

PS - if it were the ECM relay or others, then something should work on the car - eg, lights etc. But a "main" flink usually kills all power except the main power to the starter.

50 amp fuse, engine bay fusebox, bet you haven't got 12 volts at the ignition switch, very common problem with Hondas.
There are no relays in that circuit.
Usually down to amateurs dabbling in the arcane art of car audio and convenience who aren't up to it.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Correction, might be 40 amps, either F1, F2 F3. Marked as IGNITION.
If nothing is visible, use a DMM to test continuity.
Let us know please.
Another option would be a faulty ignition switch, I've seen that too but my bet is the fuse.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

I don't have any circuit diagrams but the fuse outputs including possibly the main 80 amp fuse are all coloured white.
White then goes to the interior fusebox and another white to the ignition switch.
You have to test the whites coming out of that engine bay fusebox.
Test to see if you have 12V+ on the white at the switch, if so, turn on ignition to see if the BLACK / YELLOW goes live.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

The pics on the following links may be similar to your fusebox...
honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=2962203
honda-tech.com/showthread.php?p=47381601

In the first you'll see screw-down 60A (looks colorless but should be yellow) and 40A (green) flinks, while the 2nd highlights a green (40A) flink which is apparently the battery fuse. (Not that I trust their info**)

Your main fuse (flink) might be 60A to 100A. 40A is IMO too low unless there are a few parallel flinks (to different circuits) rather than one big "master" or main flink.
Jap flinks are color-coded (eg, 80A is black) but their Amperage is also printed or embossed on the flink's clear cover.


Blown fuses/flinks will not have bright shiny copper joining their 2 terminals. The copper should be visible thru their transparent covers.

Main/large (high-current) flinks are screwed or bolted in. Smaller flinks are usually just push in. (Push in is available up to 80A, though after experiencing a melted 40A plug-in flink, I consider 40A an upper limit for plug-ins unless their contacts are occasionally checked for cleanliness.)



** Incidentally, the first pic shows the ELD (Electrical Load Detector) between the two mentioned screwed flinks.
I fail to see the need for ELDs for "load control" as that merely adds complication, adds overall load and hence increases fuel economy. (IMO their only purpose is for greater acceleration. Vehicle battery & charging systems are a "constant voltage" system and merely regulate by measuring and maintaining voltage. The actual current drawn is irrelevant wrt regulation.)
But elsewhere on honda-tech their operation is described as dropping the alternator voltage to 12.3V. That's ridiculous - the battery is usually 12.6V or higher!) IMO that means either that they are not measuring voltage at the battery, or, um, they are certainly "unqualified" in their descriptions. (I edited that last bit to tone down my original comment.) But hence why I treat their info as sus. [ VIZ - a reverse connected battery probably "blew an ECU". So Hondas do not have the usual reverse-polarity protected ECU relay that most other and every Jap car has? I'll bet the problem is a blown flink due to reverse-biased alternator diodes. ]

Screw in and marked "ignition" Pete.
Did we scare the poor sod off?

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Yes the second pic is a good likeness except for the aligator clips would be attached to the two screws with the thick black wires in front of the battery fuse one clip on each side

and I can remove the aligator clips once the vehicle starts without it shutting off full power inside and out unless I turn it off then I would have to do a repeat with the aligator clips to start it again.

Just by attaching the aligator clips the the two screws with the thick black wires everything in the vehicle will work even if I don't start the vehicle but remove the aligator clips without the vehicle running everything goes dead.

Oh just change the bloody fuse and problem solved.


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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

fulton883 wrote:

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...and I can remove the aligator clips once the vehicle starts...

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You should NEVER do that!

That's disconnecting the running alternator/engine from the battery - google it and read stories of fried ECUs and electronics and stalled cars in the path of oncoming trains because there was no battery to absorb the >100V spikes nor to stop the car stalling under braking or dipping headlights or flashers...

...The train was funny - the partner in the passenger seat: "Could you PLEASE hurry with that aliga... alli... ...train..." {clip!} .

Actually Peter, unless the other fuses on that box are U/S he won't fry the alternator, BUT this should have been solved on the first post.
i.e. Change a fuse or fuses.
As a super diagnostician this job would have been done in 10 minutes.
And charged for an hour.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

IMO he shouldn't fry the alternator anyhow. IMO they are usually (else should be) self protecting as I have mentioned elsewhere (with relevant exceptions).

Good. It looks like Howard's bloody advice paid off yet again. (When did Howard become an Aussie?)   


IMO those flinks should be carried as a spare. Even my Mum even has spares for her car.
Usually one spare (of each size) is enough, though 2 spares are good after finding the first blows soon after fitting. Find & fix the fault and use the 2nd spare.
[ Or get n+1 spares if a "trial and error" fault finding technique is used n times. But that's where circuit breakers or a headlight may be better... ]

And don't forget that fixing such a fault can be as simple are removing and reconnecting a flink or fuse.

I don't know about Aussies and other colonials such as Americans and Canadians but in the old country we call 'em CROC CLIPS!!!

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Funny, we call them alligator clips. Yet we don't have aligators - we have the fearsome salty (salt-water) and docile Johnson crocs (despite Myth-Busters claiming the Johnson Crocodile is ferocious - but that's consistent with all their other fkups... busting aerosols to refit tyre beads, or Lucille Ball's teeth not picking up AM radio - what a bunck of CROC).


Incidentally Howard, the Aussie reference was to you using the bluddy term. I thought we Aussies had exclusive rights to that!

Dates back to Shakespeare!
A fine swear word back in 1950s England but the F & C words have replaced it in the general vocabulary.
Remember words change, "walker" has a far nastier meaning in the UK than it has in the US.
And remember "American English" dates back to 17th. century English with spelling changes introduced by an American President in I believe the 1830s.
"Australian English" dates back to 19th. century English.
"Upper Class" English dates back to the fashionable landed gentry slavishly copying that kraut George I's atrocious English.


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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

I see the mods used "walker" instead of a word rhyming with "banker".
Ah well, I'll be a Silver next.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Everything goes back to U.K. English, the Aussies / Canadians and Americans just improved it a bit.    I do like the term Flink for that fuse. 

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Soldering is fun!

I like the French for spark plug, bogy.. no I lied it's bougy.
Actually the German for Fuel Injection is my all time favourite.
Einspritzen = One spits in.


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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

kreg357 x 2 (or more!!)


Isn't einspritzen the (alcohol) spirit for winter? But I like it too for injector.

Bougy is very apt. (I might have to scrap splugs. That was a pre-flink word coined by my Mum. Flink is a bit vague, but splugs and sparts rarely need clarification, and certainly no second reminders.   

The walking banker here is a mild expression (akin to nerd etc) though it can be taken - and meant - seriously.
As with a lot of Aussie lingo, it depends HOW it is said. The lad with unmarried parents (not the bustard bird) is usually a term of affection (it means you are accepted) unless of course said with a serious tone...


On a lighter note I suppose I could mention the Swedish (Nordic/Germanic) for travel or way - fart.
I always found Swedish exits - ie, out-travel = utfart to be natural.
Their in-traffics (entries) worried me a bit - infarts.
But the one that cracked my dad up was a passing bus with huge lettering down its side - "Touristfart".