2005 equinox bypass and?

Looking for a bypass recommendation for a 2005 Equinox. Will be installing a Viper 5301 remote starter. Already have a Fortin Passlock SL2-V2 on hand, but was wondering if there is a better option for this vehicle?

I understand this vehicle does not connect to the viper starter wire.

I have usually done vehicles with (-) lock/unlock and this vehicle has (+) lock/unlock. I am thinking I just use the blue/ green harness from the 5301 in reverse of the (-) set up that I have usually done.  Am I correct or way off?

I have done a search on this site for the research and those are about the only question I have on something I have not yet done yet.  Always looking for the challange.

I won't be on this one for a couple of weeks, so just looking for the pro advice on something I have not tackled yet.

Thank You

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Hi, Mr. Smoke!

A while ago I did a 2005 Equinox LT.  Being as it had the Factory Alarm, I decided to take the
easy way out.  I used an iDatalink ADS DL bypass module flashed with ADS DL GM4 firmware.  Made
the install very easy.  The ADS DL GM4 also takes care of Keysense, which is a mandatory connection.

No pictures but going from my notes...

The BCM is located in the center console below the radio.  There are 4 plugs, A thru D, left to right. 
Plug A aka 16 Pin Gray Plug
Plug A, top row, far right has Yellow Passlock2 wire   ( available @ ignition switch, too )
Plug A, bottom row, far right has ORANGE / Black Passlock Ref ( ground )   ( available @ ignition switch, too )

Plug B aka 24 Pin Gray Plug
Plug B, middle row, right side has Light Blue (-) Parking Lights
Plug B also has the Light Green (-) Keysense wire ( available @ ignition switch, too )
Plug B also has the Dark Blue (+) Unlock
Plug B also has the Tan/White (-) Passenger Door Trigger

Plug C aka 24 Pin Pink Plug
Plug C, top row, right side has Tan (-) Horn
Plug C also has Light Blue (+) Lock
Plug C also has the Gray/Black (-) Driver Door Trigger

Ignition wires @ Ignition Switch Harness
+12V constant      RED / White
Ignition1      Pink
Accessory1          Orange
Accessory2          Brown

There is no Starter wire.  Engine starts when it sees Accessory's drop while Ignition stays @ 12V.
Car has "one touch" starting - no need for Anti-Grind.  No need for a Tach connection, either.  Just
set R/S to 1.5 second fixed crank.

Brake is (+) Light Blue at brake pedal switch.

I believe you will need relays to reverse the lock polarity to (+).  A 451M module will do it, too.
( The ADS DL GM4 does the locks & alarm thru Data )

If the Equinox has the Factory Alarm, DEI says it can be disarmed with a Passlock2 and Ignition pulse.

Aside from having to pull the console apart to get to the BCM, it's a pretty easy one to do.  Put the
shifter in Drive to lift the bezel up and away from the radio / console.  Don't turn the Ignition to ON
while the console is unplugged, you will get an AirBag code / light.  Just remember to get the heater
dials lined up properly on re-install. 

Good luck!

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Soldering is fun!

What ever you do make sure you ground the passlock ground for the bypass at the ground for the passlock. Do not just ground it anywhere.

Thanks for the info on this vehicle. Kreg your write up makes it look easy, Thank You.

 I have mostly used Fortin bypasses in the past. The iDatalink module sounds like a nice one to try. Where can they be purchased and do you need to be a dealer to get these flashed?

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At the time, the iDatalink was the only module that handled the Factory Alarm and most of the
wiring guide information available said "Alarm Disarm = Factory Remote Only".  Looks like the
DB-ALL can do the Factory Alarm, too.

However, if the Equinox you are doing does not have the Factory Alarm, you could do this vehicle
the very old fashioned way, using relays and a resistor for the Passlock2 and relays to convert to
(+) door locks.  That would be a true learning experience, using a DMM to determine the Passlock2
resistor value and wiring up all those relays.  ( If you haven't done this previously. )

For low power relay applications, I use a mini 12V relay that is rated for 10 Amps.  Get them
online for less than 50 cents each.  The down side is there is no harness available, so each wire
must be wrapped & soldered to the relays' terminal legs.  Slightly cheaper than a DEI 451M ( $7 ).

Using your Viper, the Fortin Passlock SL2 and a DEI 451M would be the next easiest, being as you
already have the bypass.  Not sure if the Viper can be programmed to output a GWR and IGN pulse
with a disarm ( if the Equinox has the Factory Alarm ) like Compustar and others can.  You could
even  do this with relays, too.

Flashing the GM4 firmware on to the ADS DL module requires the ADS USB cable ( similar to the
XKLoader2 cable ) and registered dealer access to the "Flash" portion of their WEB site.  There
are "on-line" re-sellers that can supply the module flashed with your requested firmware. Figure
about $55 delivered.

 

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Soldering is fun!

Thanks for all of the great info and options.  The Equinox does not have a factory alarm, so i have been told. Will verify  that part of of the vehicle.  Was looking for bypass options and info and the ADS-DL sounded nice.   Did a Chrysler Town & Country last year where the bypass took care of the tach, door lock/unlock, sliding doors, ect which was a big time saver and a new experience for me.

I have a bunch of 451's on hand.

Thanks Kreg, for taking the time to post the info. Won't be doing it for a couple of weeks so will continue my research and post the results.

DB-ALL...uhmmmm

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DB-ALL...uhmmmm     -    Exactly  

I have used the ADS DL GM4 in many vehicles and it performs flawlessly.  While it ( GM4 ) doesn't do as much as some of the ADS DL's other firmware applications, it saves a few wires, programs easily and is very reliable.  Still prefer the W2W method, too.

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Soldering is fun!

DB-ALL comments x 3
I can't wait for the CAN-ALL to be sold here, so far only the CAN-Evo, but the importers have told me "soon".
Kregg, I've been using those PCB relays for years, what do you think the DEI 8616 is? or the 451?
Hell I make my own 8616! Except I diode 85 and 86.
I wrap and solder at right angles but it isn't as secure as your method.
I did this with a pair of latching relays about 15 years ago so that I could make aux outputs have different functions when alarm was on or off, I used Veroboard and pins, then into a small 1" x 3" box, bullet proof!

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Hi, Howard!  Prepping those relays on slow days for various uses ( Passlock2, Passlock2 for
Colorado, positive doorlocks, one wire (-) door locks, etc ) is time consuming but pays off when
you have one all ready to go for a last minute job.  With that Equinox, I would be all set for
the low price of $3 ( including fuse and heat shrink ) plus the R/S unit.  I still use the DEI 451M
for 5 wire REV door lock systems.  They have a higher current rating and I can save the Resistor
Pack to use elsewhere.

Back to Smokeman and his Equinox install.  A good source for info on console removal is Metra. 
Here is a link to Metra :  https://www.metraonline.com/
Enter in your vehicle info, select a dash kit and then download the install guide PDF.  They give
excellent step by step disassembly instructions with diagrams.

Here is a link to the install guide for a dash kit, see Page 5 for the 2005 Equinox. 
https://www.metraonline.com/files/products/INST95-3302_web.pdf

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Soldering is fun!

Again uncanny, I buy ten of those relays at a time, usually Omron, but the uncanny part is the fact that I have a Metra App on my phone for that exact reason.
Yesterday I did a Honda S2000, for me the first thing with them is driver's seat removal!
And it still crippled me!

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Trouble is I have an epidemic of resistor packs.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Here's the update:

Installed a Clifford 20.7x (Viper 5501), with a DB-ALL, firmware GM5, Installation Type 6.  Went with W2W mostly because of all the issues I have read about going D2D. Real nice bypass as it took care of the door lock/unlock and tach.  Programmed first time with no issues.

Easy to get at the ignition, lots of room under there. At least for me. I'm not a huge guy. Taking the center counsel apart was a bit more work.

Bench prepped the unit and the bypass. First time to do that. Seems like I didn't have the usual spaghetti mess of wires afterwards.

Kregs notes were right on as to location and color for wires. Your info and guidance was much appreciated. There is a six pack of beer on the way to you. LOL

Only thing that threw me was after I connected the ignition, Acc, Acc2, 12 volt constant(2x), keysense, and the R code wires, I tried to start the vehicle with the key to make sure it would still start, it would not. Keep getting a flashing car/lock symbol on the dash. Even though I had not connected any power to the DB-ALL.      

I disconnected all of the harness, and still no start.   So I programed the DB-ALL, and then it would start with the key again. Not something I was expecting. Only had a small coronary over that.

Once again this site is amazing.  For all those that find this site helpful, Please Donate.

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Thanks for the update.   Think you'll find going W2W and bench prepping make life much easier ( and neater ).

That's good news with the DB-ALL working properly and doing everything it's supposed to.     Now if only D2D would work consistently...

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Soldering is fun!