keyless entry on 1995 toyota avalon

I have searched online for information on how to install a Viper 211HV to my 1995 Toyota Avalon XL with no luck, can anyone help tell me what wires connect to what? I would like it to unlock and lock the doors, and hopefully honk the horn. I dont care about headlight or interior lights.

Let's start with your wiring info for that car for keyless entry.

12volts      white or wht/red      +      ignition harness
Starter      red or blk/wht      +      ignition harness
Ignition      BLACK / YELLOW      +      ignition harness
Power Lock      blue/white      -      either kick
Notes: on cars without factory security system use GREEN/ orange(-) to lock.
Power Unlock      blue / YELLOW      -      passenger kick
Lock Motor                 
Unlock Motor                 
Parking Lights+      green            dkp at top white plug
Parking Lights-      GREEN/ red            integration relay
Notes: the integration relay is located at the bottom of the fuse box.
Hazards                 
Turn Signal(L)                 
Turn Signal(R)                 
Door Trigger      RED / white (1 of 2)      -      dkp 2nd plug in on top
Dome Supervision                 
Trunk/Hatch Release      WHITE/ blue      -      trunk release switch
Power Sliding Door                 
Factory Alarm Arm      arms with lock           
Factory Alarm Disarm      disarms with unlock           
Disarm No Unlock                 
Horn Trigger      GREEN/ black      -      at steering column

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Wiring from the 211HV to the Avalon -

Violet, Violet/Black and Black - all go to Ground
RED / White - to Trunk/Hatch Release - WHITE/ Blue
Blue/Black - to Power Unlock wire - Blue / YELLOW
Orange - not used
WHITE/ Black - not used
Yellow - to BLACK / YELLOW ignition wire at the ignition harness
GREEN/ Black - to Power lock wire - Blue/White
WHITE/ Blue - not used
BLACK/ White - not used
Lt GREEN/ Black - not used
BLACK/ White - not used
Brown - to horn wire - GREEN/ black
Blue - not used
Red - 12v constant source - White or WHITE/ Red at the ignition harness
White - to (+) Parking light wire - green (remember to set the jumper on the 211HV to (+) for the Parking lights to work correctly.

Good Luck!



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Thanks shortcircuit 161 for the information, it is very helpful and will make the install much easier and give me the confidence that I am installing it correctly.

I have another question for shortcircuit161 about the wiring from the viper 211hv to the Avalon XL. On my Avalon when I put the key in the door lock and turn it once it will unlock the drivers door only or if I turn it twice it unlocks all the doors. So I was wondering if the keyless remote will allow me to do the same thing by pushing the unlock button twice with the way you indicated to wire the 211hv in the previous post or do I need to connect different wires to make the locks work the same as before the keyless entry system? In other words does the H1/2 Blue wire on the 211hv harness need to be connected for the above to work and if so what wire do I connect it to? I think it would be the Blue / YELLOW on the Avalon but not 100% sure.

Cars without factory security use a GREEN/ orange (-) at the same place, plug in driver's kickwell.
To achieve priority unlock which is what you described you will need a DMM to probe that plug or any other plugs in that locality carrying wires into the driver's door.
One wire will "sit" at ground till you lock the door then go to 12V+ for 0.8 seconds.
Find that wire, then with the aid of a relay and diode I'll give you a diagram to achieve that result.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

The alternative method would be to probe at the plug for a (-) wire which will achieve the same result, i.e. only unlock the driver's door then another that does the rest.
I'm not even sure it's wired that way.
Are you capable of this?

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

None of the wirings diagram I have show the wire for unlocking just the driver's door. As Howie stated above, you will want to test all the wires around the power lock wires and find the one that rests at 12v and drops to 0 when you turn the key in the driver's door.

Once you find it, the wiring from the 211HV will be slightly different to the car than mentioned above.

With priority unlock -
H1/8 - Blue/Black to the priority driver only unlock wire (when you find it)

H1/2 - Blue to the Blue / YELLOW unlock wire - this will trigger the unlock for the other doors on the 2nd press of the keyless remote.



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I am planning to testing all the wiring first before actually installing the system and I wanted to ask some questions before I started. I have read that the instructions for this unit can be a little confusing and lacking especially for someone who does not install things like this everyday so I am trying to cover all my bases up front so the install is much smoother and faster. Believe me I don't want to get into this and have a wiring nightmare or screw things up on my car so the more knowledge I can gain up front the better and that is why I came here. Thanks for the help/info.

Frankly from your correct use of English, syntax, grammar etc. I don't think you will have any problems.
It's usually the people who can't spell and don't listen who have the train wrecks.
Bluntly, lower dash and driver kick panel out this is a half hour job!
Out of interest you don't need to buy a Digital Multi Meter (DMM) for this job.
A light bulb tester* using an incandescent bulb will test everything AND trigger the lock/unlock much faster than a DMM.
A vehicle of this vintage doesn't have enough "data" circuits apart from the airbag wiring (usually in a yellow loom, AVOID) to worry about.
*Snap-On CT-42 or similar from Sears.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

X2 with Howie all the way!!

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Sears, coil tester, about $20
Go to automotive testers.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

I actually already own a DMM and coil tester so I won't need to purchase them but thanks for the info Howie II every bit helps.

Though I was surprised at how expensive the Sears part was but then solder has quadrupled in price in the UK over the last 3 years.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Now to explain!
Clip side of tester to a good ground e.g. bolts at kick panel*
Probe end to the plugs in the kick panel where the looms go into the driver's door.
Remove key from ignition, possibly have to throw over striker catch at rear of door (Most Euro and some Oriental cars won't lock if this isn't done). Might even have to hold down door switch though it probably isn't needed.
Poke the spike end into each wire at the plug, you will get lock and unlock, you might even get passenger door(s) unlock. If not operating the locks will give you driver door unlock motor wire.
Do the same thing at the connector halfway down the steering column.
Again, just grounding these wires because of the way Toyotas are wired will give you horn, hi beam low beam and possibly lights.
You could do indicators as the rest of the world, that's GREEN/ black and GREEN/ YELLOW (+) on all Toyotas.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

*Also the best place to ground the unit, remove a bolt; scrape to spare metal around the hole; use an M6 crimp ring terminal (M6 = 6 mm, 1/4", or 6.4mm is fine) and replace bolt (10mm spanner size).

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.