python 5401p on 97 f250

Today I installed this system on my 97 f250 diesel. I've got the alarm portion working but the remote start is not working. I used the wiring guide from bulldog security and am pretty confident that it is wired correctly. When I press the start button nothing happens. The tach wire is not hooked up. Will it start the truck without this? Is there some programming to be done before it will work?
Thanks Ryan

Do the heavy gauge wires do the starting or is there some type of relay needed?

As always, if you could list ALL of your wiring connections (connector and color), from the remote start unit to what wire on the vehicle (location and color). That way we can see a visual of you install and can maybe help.

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Green to RED / blue key switch
Violet to RED / blue starter
Orange to yel/gray
Pink/white to blk/grn
Red to 12v
RED / blk to 12v
RED / white to 12v

Is the RED / blue at you ignition switch cut?  Are your connections soldered or crimped?   What about the Pink for Ignition 1

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The ignition wire is cut. The connections are crimped   The trick will start by key.

Good advise:: Get rid of the crimps and solder.  Still need an ansewr on Pin to ignition 1 as well as the othe connectors and their connected to what on the truck.    Heavy gauge wiring looks right so far as long as those wires tested out with DMM.  Need a 12 volt connection on H1 harness, Ground, NSS, ,Toggle switch, brake, hood pin.....

And is this a 5104 and not a 5401?

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Ignition is pink to RED / light green
Gt the power and ground to h1
Toggle switch is in and on
Brake is connected at the switch to the light green
Hood pin is not hooked up
I'm sorry it's the 5104
ll wires tested out

And which other wires do you need to know

NSs is not hooked up its a auto

The BLACK/ White Neutral Safety Wire must be connected.  For most auto trans vehicles going to Chassis
Ground is OK.  Just run the NSS test shown below to ensure safe operation.

➤ Testing the neutral safety switch
1.) Make sure there is adequate clearance to the front and rear of the vehicle because it may move slightly.
2.) Make sure the hood is closed and there are no remote start shut-downs active.
3.) Set the emergency brake.
4.) Turn the key to the “run” position, this will release the shifter.
5.) Place the car in drive (D).
6.) Place your foot directly over the brake pedal, but do not depress it.  Be ready to step on the brake if the
     starter engages.
7.) Activate the remote start system.
8.) If the starter engages, immediately depress the brake to shut the remote start system down.  If the starter
     does not engage, no additional safety system is required.

Did you set the Python to Auto Trans Mode? 

Are you getting any LED error codes?

Is the Neutral Safety Switch plugged in and set to ON?

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At first it would do nothing but I could hear the box click several times with no flashes. Now nothing happens

Do you have the parking light wire from the rs connected to the parking light of the truck?

Link to Bulldog Wiring:   https://www.bulldogsecurity.com/bdnew/vehiclewiringdiagrams.aspx

Also does this unit have a 6 pin main harness or a 12 pin main harness...a 24 or 18 pin harness. This help us to understand what you have fro wiring/harness.

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May I quote?
The ignition wire is cut. The connections are crimped   The trick will start by key.
The ignition wire?
Try the starter wire.
Also x 2 with Smokeman on crimping, it's unreliable unless you use MIL grade (expensive) crimper and crimps.
My crimpers are French Facom compound action at about $100 each, ONLY used for ring terminals and fastons, NOT joining.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

You're right it's the starter wire cut. The main harness is a 6 pin with a 24 pin auxiliary harness and a 10 rs harness. The parking light wire in the main harness is hooked up.

I tried to ground the BLACK/ white with no luck. In the menus I see nothing about turning the nss on

Is this in Mt mode when it should be programmed for auto? Or vice versa?
Have you set it up as a diesel?

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Leave it grounded and is the switch plugged it and turned on?

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

I switched it to auto. But I'll double check. It is not set up for diesel. But it should try to turn over shouldn't it. It does nothing now no Accesories or ignition wires getting power. No lights on the dash. Is there something in the programming that should be switched on

Won't do anything if that toggle switch isn't connected and switched on (or the ugly mother switch is removed and the wires joined).
With a DMM check the voltages at the input fuses and your ground,
then try the R/S and see if you have any thing coming from the H/3 output wires.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

I'm out now ill try that when I get home. The switch is connected and on. I will try and unplug the switch and plug it back in case it is not in all the way.

So I checked the switch and grounded the nss. Still nothing I put my dmm on the nss wire before I grounded it and had 10v is this normal? I've included pics of the paper work the highlighted ones are not connected.

And you expect us to read that?
Just open up the unit and see if the fuse for the lights is in position.
Never said to test the voltage on that switch, typical amateur chasing up blind alleys. you're looking for continuity, the voltage there is irrelevant.
I asked you to test the voltages at ground and fused inputs after the fuses.
How have you grounded it?

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Use it's all grounded and the power is good the fuse is in the proper position the lights flash when armed and unarmed.

"It's all grounded and the power is good"
Grounded, how, what voltages?

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

I posted the pics because there are some 200ma outputs on the 24 pin I'm not using thought maybe I needed to be tied in

Have you tested the voltages on the H/3 outputs yet?
Pink, pink/white, orange and violet?


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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

All 4 power inputs are at 12.28-12.3v at the connector of the brain measured from the ground at the brain

I checked them when I pressed the remote start was pressed with no voltage

Seems a tad low to me test your meter across your battery please and see if you get the same figures.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

So assuming you do that last thing and your meter readings are the same, we are possibly looking at a faulty unit.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

12.4v at the batteries and I started the truck and checked for power at the orange,pink and pink/white and all have power

That means the R/S is working OK, either incorrect wiring or something silly missed. Please take someone else's good advice and use the spreadsheet template at the top of this forum to list every connection.
Set in diesel mode this should be an easy install.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

That was a key start

Well that's the wrong direction!
Get down there and measure ALL the H/3 OUTPUTS when you try to remote start it.
That is:-
Pink
Orange
Pink/white
Violet.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Is a by-pass required for this vehicle?
Don't ask me, never seen an F250 except on TV.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

I did test when I remote start no voltage. Absolutely nothing happens. I'm not sure if a bypass is required. I tried to google it and the options didn't go that far back. It does not have a chip key though

Ok I printed the spreadsheet filled it in and scanned it I also scanned the paper that came with the unit. All that is hilighted is not connected

Ya know bigsparky, I don't see where a bypass is needed for your truck.  This should be a rather easy install.  H1/1 Red, H3/2, 6, and 9 all go to a constant 12 volt source, H1/2 Black to a good chassis groung as well as the H2/2.  Check your connections, check that the connectors are in tight, Check for a good groung for the unit. Get rid of the crimp connections and solder the connections.  The brain needs to be set to automatic. Should be menu 3, item 1, option 2.  You also need to set the deisel wait to start, looks to be Menu 3, Item 9, (( Option 2 is 15 sec, Option 3 is 30 seconds, Option 4 is 45 seconds))

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I've set the menu items and checked power at the connectors going in. Is there a way I could have turned it off during programming. I would think that without the wait to start set it would at least turn on the ignition and accessories

I think it's a faulty unit.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Take your DMM, put red probe on the pink heavy gauge wire, black probe to ground. Try to remote start the vehicle, You should see the DMM go from 0 to 12 volts during the remote start process.

Do this on the Pink,  Pink/White, Violet, and the Orange. These are the output from the remote starter to the vehicle.  If there is no voltage, something is not connected right, a fuse is blown, no groung, defective unit.

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I checked all the wires you mentioned. I also checked h1/1'h3/2,h3/6,and h3/9 to h1/2 ground all have 12.3 v

The hood pin wire and tach wire are not hooked to anything. I checked the brake wire and I have 12v on braking.

Ok you have 12 volts on H1/1 H3/2, 6, and 9...but I asked you to test the OUTPUTS of the unit.  H3/1, 3, 4, and 7... What do you have on those wires when trying to REMOTE START.  Reread my last post.

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I checked them all 0v on all the wires you mentioned when the remote start is pressed nothing happens not even a click in the brain

Seems to be pointing to a defective unit as Howie II suggested.

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I think so too if the wiring is as simple as connecting the heavy gauge wires. I'm confident they are right. I have some basic electrical knowledge. I wired the alarm portion and had to wire relays for the lock/unlock and all that works fine

Ok so I ordered a new one.

Does it seem the wiring is right?
Also I noticed that I programmed the ignition controlled locks and they do not work and now when I try to get to the program menu the light stays solid.

That means you're in valet mode and I suspect the pink ignition wire might not be reaching the Viper, check H3 wires AT THE VIPER PLUG END.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

I checked the pink at the plug end it has power on key. When I went to check it this morning neither of my fobs would disarm the system. Which was set by the fob

We aren't interested in "power on key". We are only interested in those wires powering up on remote start activation.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Ok we'll I have continuity to the plug from all wires. When I remote start nothing happens. No power on any wires with exception of the ones connected to a constant 12v. What about why my remotes would not open the car this morning?

Again test everything, either bad wiring or a faulty unit.
If you crimped, there's a chance of wires pulling out, when pros crimp, we use $100 compound action crimpers and I personally pull on every wire to make sure.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

My point of testing the wires with the key on for power is so I can rule out faulty wiring. If I have power my connections are good leaving a faulty unit.

Testing with the key on just tells us your ignition is OK!
It tells us nothing about the unit for the fourth time (me x 3 and Smokeman once), try from the unit, it's the ONLY way to determine if the unit is faulty.
Incidentally failure rate on the Viper R/S or for that matter Compustar or Avoxx/Prestige is in the region of 0.1% if a new unit from a reputable dealer rather than Fleabay.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

I told you several times as well when I press the remote start button nothing happens. No clicks no voltage on ignition or accessory wires. Do we agree that my wiring was correct from previous posts?

Yes but did you physically test those outputs with a meter when trying the R/S?

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Yes several times.

Thank you, first time you answered that one, OK, now for the replacement.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

I ordered a replacement yesterday. I just want to be sure that if it was something miswired that I don't Hirt the new unit.
Thanks for the help

Since you are waiting on a different unit, take the time to remove all of your crimped connections and solder them the right way. Might eliminate the sporadic issues.    Try pressing the F button twice and then the unlock button. See if that turn off the solid blue LED.

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Yeah I started to solder last night. Right now the remote does nothing I'm going to try to repair the remotes and see if that helps any

I just tried several times to repair my remotes with no luck. I noticed this morning that there is a leak above my windshield. This occurred after the remote start issues but prior to the system not disarming this morning

I found my leak and sealed it. I brought the command center in to dry and it now works arm and disarm. I still can't access the menus.

You won't be able to access the menus The ignition 1 (Pink ) wire needs to see 12 volts when you cycle the key on/off.  You might be able to trick it by applying/removing 12 volts to the H3/1 wire with a jumper. Simulating the key on/off.

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I just double checked it and I get 12v to the pink when I cycle the key. Just no 12v coming out when I try to start. Something must be not right in the box because when I was last able to access the menu I turned on ignition controlled locking and that never worked. So it may not be reading it.

If you are getting 12V+ at the pink with the key on, and the green door trigger wire shows ground when the door is opened yet you still can't get into programming mode then water has damaged the internal circuitry of that unit.
Good luck with warrantee, you wouldn't get it in the UK.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

I hope I can get it. It wasn't working before the rain.

I have my door trigger hooked to the violet could that be my problem.
Green is (-) door trigger no or nc
Violet is (-) door trigger

Discard the violet, I wonder how many other wires are mistakes.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

My last post was WRONG.
Discard the green, connect the purple to the blue/black in the driver kick panel.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

So then I will need to put in a relay because I have positive trigger? I listed it all and it should be right

No the violet goes to that positive trigger.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

And that will have nothing to do with it failing to R/S unless you've tied one of those two as a hood pin.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Ok thanks. The hood pin wire is not used I will make a complete list

Main harness
H1/1 red-12v
H1/2 black-ground
H1/3 brown-siren
H1/4 WHITE/ brown parking light Iso-not connected
H1/5 white-brown at headlight switch
H1/6 orange ground when armed- not connected

Door lock
Blue- unlock relay
Green- lock relay

Auxiliary harness
H2/1 pink/white (-)200ma ignition/flex relay- not connected
H2/2 BLACK/ white (-)nss- ground
H2/3 blue/white (-)200ma 2nd status/rear defogger output- not connected
H2/4 GREEN/ black (-)200ma oem alarm disarm output- not connected
H2/5 RED / white (-)200ma trunk release output- not connected
H2/6 green door trigger(n/c or n/o)- not connected
H2/7 BLACK / YELLOW (-)200ma dome light supervision-relay
H2/8 BROWN / black (-)200ma horn output-dark blue
H2/9 dark blue status output- not connected
H2/10 pink (-)200ma ignition1 output- not connected
H2/11 WHITE/ black (-) 200ma aux3 output- not connected
H2/12 violet (+) door trigger- BLACK/ blue
H2/13 WHITE/ violet (-) aux1 output- not connected
H2/14 violet/black (-) aux2 output- not connected
H2/15 ORANGE / black (-) aux4 output- not connected
H2/16 brown (+) brake shutdown- light green
H2/17 grey (-) hood pin n/o or n/c- not connected
H2/18 violet / YELLOW (-) 200ma starter output - not connected
H2/19 blue trunk pin instant trigger n/c or n/o - not connected
H2/20 gray/black diesel wait to start- not connected
H2/21 whit/blue (-) remote start/turbo timer activation- not connected
H2/22 orange (-) accessory output- not connected
H2/23 violet/white tachometer input-WHITE/ pink at tach
H2/24 GREEN / WHITE (-)200ma oem alarm arm output- not connected

Remote start
H3/1 pink ignition 1 input/output - RED / light green
H3/2 RED / white 12v
H3/3 orange accessory output-gray / YELLOW
H3/4 violet starter output- car side of RED / lt blue
H3/5 green starter input- key side of RED / lt blue
H3/6 red-12v
H3/7 pink/white ignition2- BLACK/ lt green
H3/8 pink/black flex relay input 87a key side- not connected
H3/9RED / black- 12v

My confusion was due to a discrepancy between the wiring that came with the alarm and the one I pulled offline yesterday. I was at work and didn't have my cut sheet with me. The online version shows a negative door trigger input and the python supplied one shows a positive door trigger input. I knew I had checked this out several times.

Use the single wire blue/black (+) POS.
Much easier that finding all of them, dioding them etc.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Yeah that's what I did. The alarm worked fine just no remote start.
Thanks

So do all of my connections seem to be in order

While it won't cause problems, the Hood Pin ( H2/17 ) should be installed.  It is a very
important safety feature when using a remote start.

I haven't re-read the first 7 pages of this post, but did you put a DMM on the ignition
wires?  There is a lot of conflicting info on Ford trucks, so it is best to actually test and
verify each wire.  The goal is to duplicate exactly what the key does ( with a few exceptions... )

That being said, the H3 connections look OK.  There is a bunch of programming that should
be done on the Python.  Here are a few items that should be checked.

Menu 3, Item 1 Transmission Mode.  If you have an auto trans, you must change this to
Option 2.

Menu 3, Item 2 Engine Checking.  You said you had a Tach wire connected.  Did it properly
respond when you performed the Tach Learn Process?  Did you verify that this Option is
set to Opt 4?

With a diesel, you will probably want a longer remote start run time.  You can change Menu 3,
Item 4 to Opt 2 or 3.

If you are using a fixed delay ( glow plug warm up time ) you must change Menu 3, Item 9 to
Option 2.

Living in a warm climate, you might not need to worry about Menu 3, Item 10.

Of course there other things to check that could prevent the remote start from working like :
Verify that the Brake (+) Input only goes to +12V when the Brake Pedal is depressed.
If you had the Hood Pin installed, verify that the Hood Pin Input only goes to (-) Ground when
the hood is open.

Lastly, the Python system has some built in diagnostics and will flash out the cause of a
failed remote start.  Count the blinks and look up the error on the install guides chart.

LED Flashes Shutdown Mode
1 Runtime expired
2 Over-rev shutdown
3 Low or no RPM
4 Transmitter shutdown (or optional push button)
5 (+) Brake shutdown
6 (-) Hood shutdown
7 Timer mode/Turbo mode/Manual mode error *
8 Neutral safety shutdown
9 Low battery (voltage mode)

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Soldering is fun!

Yeah I checked everything with a meter. When remote start was pressed there was no output from the control box on any wires.

Ok I got my new unit in today and it works. I think my problem was I never set it for auto transmission. I know you told me. But after a while the unit would not try to start and quit throwing codes. Also I don't believe I had the parking light jumper in when I first started. As far as the light staying constant it seems to have something to do with the dome light relay being tied to the door trigger I disconnected it and could enter the program mode.